I installed an underdrive pulley from fastforwardperformance.com, and had there been instructions like I am about to post, I would have saved hours. But I don't mind being a guinea pig.

Items you will need:

blue thread locker
anti-thread sieze
at least a 1" shorter than stock belt
rubber mallet or dead-blow mallet
wood blocks of equal thicknesses
one helper willing to work for peanuts
1/2" drive breaker bar and ratchet, 18mm socket (6-sided is preferrable)
3/8" drive ratchet and 10 mm socket
Large wrench or cheater pipe (large wrench can also be used to loosen tensioner.
Large flat tipped screwdriver
Buy or get loaner harmonic balancer puller
Flat faced punch

This project will be much easier if you have a helper if you don't have an air compressor and impact wrench, (which I didn't) it will help if one or both of you is a "tough guy". I don't think it would even be worth the effort to try by yourself without the aid of an air comp.

1. Remove the factory belt. This is done by putting a large open end wrench on the square end of the tensioner. Lift up with the wrench, and slip the belt off one of the accessories. then remove the belt.

2. Jack the car up, and put it on jackstands. Place one jackstand on the front of the engine cradle, and one in front of the flywheel inspection cover. Remove the flywheel inspection cover. (held on by 2 bolts, 10mm socket used)

3. Remove the front passenger side tire, and the upper plastic splash guard. These are held on by 3 plastic "screws" which go into a sort of anchor. The first 2 are obvious; there is one towards the front that you will need either a real stubby screwdriver or a 90 degree to remove.

4. Now you are ready to get tough...removing the crank bolt. Get a long breaker bar, 1/2 in. drive is preferable, and an 18mm socket. A 6 point socket is preferrable, so you don't round the bolt off. But I used a regular 12-point and it went fine. Also, get a large wrench for more leverage on the breaker bar, or a cheater pipe. Have your assistant get a long, thick, flat-head craftsman screwdriver. (I say craftsman so you can take it back if you break it...thanks milzy) One of you go to the flywheel inspection hole, and wedge the tip between one of the farthest back teeth you can see. You can pull down lightly on the screwdriver for more leverage, but not too hard cuz your transmission case is aluminum, remember! You can wrap your hands around the jackstand and use that as a way to hold the screwdriver tight so it will drive into the palm of your hand, or figure out some way to wedge it against the jackstand. I used method #1. Have the guy with the breaker bar (not a good guy to talk smack to right now) try to rotate the pulley a little. If you have a good bite on the teeth of the flywheel, it won't move. The good news is, the teeth are harder than your screwdriver. If you or your buddy is as strong as he says he is, give him the green light, and the bolt should break loose.

5. Now you are ready to remove the balancer. You will need to buy or borrow a harmonic balancer removal kit. This kit has a long threaded bolt with a point on one end, 3 bolts, and a special piece which I will refer to as a "crowsfoot" (or "peace sign" if you're a hippie) to hold all the bolts and the center piece. If you borrow a kit, from somewhere such as Autozone, inspect the kit. Make sure the threads in the middle aren't stripped or banged up, as I had to deal with. Also, it is most likely that the bolts you get will be about 4" or 5" long. If there are 3 different sizes, and 2 look brand new, and 1 set looks a bit used, you better believe the used set is what you need. If this is the case, do yourself a HUGE favor and once you leave the store, go straight to a hardware store and pick up 3 3/8" bolts, coarse thread, approximately 2 inches long, and 3 flat washers. This will make your life much easier.

6. Thread the crows foot a ways up onto the long threaded bolt. use the tapered "acorn" if this piece is separate. Slip the first bolt through the crows foot, then through one of the threaded holes in the balancer. Do not tighten too far, or the bolt could come in contact with the block, or even worse...the crank sensor housing. With these 2" bolts this will be difficult. Thread the other 2 bolts in, so that the long center bolt lines up with the hole in the balancer. Each bolt should be threaded in the same length. I had about 1/2" sticking out above the crowsfoot. You may have to install one from above the engine compartment.

7. I HIGHLY reccommend hitting the place where the factory balancer goes on the crank with some penetrating lubricant. Go have a cold beverage of your choice and let it do its work.

Take a 1/2" drive ratchet, and socket for the center bolt. (mine was 19mm). Start tightening the center bolt down so it pushes against the tapered part of the crank. This is what pulls the balancer off. This will NOT just fall right off once you get past a certain point, you have to keep it going the whole way.

8. Now that the factory damper is off, you need to remove the inner ring. This is the ring that the crank sensor reads, so it is very important. You need about 4 wood blocks, of equal heigth. Place 2 stacks side by side so that the very sides of the back of the damper are on the blocks, but the ring can move down between them. You need a hammer and a flat faced punch to do this. Tap the punch on the ring very gently to make it come out. Do NOT hit in one spot more than once, or you will damage it too much. It will get small dings in it, but this is not the part that is read by the sensor. Tap around in opposite sides (give it the ol' tappy tap-eroo) of the ring so one side is never farther out than another. It will seem like slow going at first, but it will come out. Patience is a virtue here.

9. Once the ring is out, straighten out any larger dents you may have put in the ring. It is helpful if you take some steel wool or wire brush the outer edge of the ring to remove any rust. This rust will make it harder to put the ring back in the new balancer. First, remove the 3 small set screws in the inside of the new balancer with a small allen wrench. Keep these in a safe place, as they are very tiny. To install the ring, I used the same blocks I used in the step above. Set the outside edge of the ring on the block, and set the inside of the balancer on top. Make sure you are starting equally on either side. Get another 2x4 and a rubber mallet. Very gently start tapping at the block to get the ring started in the new balancer. Note that it does not matter what orientation the ring goes back in. Make sure it is started equally on all sides. If you have one side down farther than another, it will almost be impossible to get in. If everything is OK you can start tapping it a little harder, but not much harder. Drive the ring all the way in. The outside lip if the ring should have just a small gap showing from the holes that are cut out of the ring. Rotate the unit around to check that they are all sticking up the same distance, to make sure you have it pressed in all the way.

10. Put a small bead of blue thread locker (medium strength - not the red "impossible to ever remove" strength) around a set screw, and thread it back in the hole. This holds the inside of the ring in place. Not quite sure this is necessary since it is so hard to get in, but it makes me feel better. Repeat for the other 2. Now you are ready to install the new balancer.

11. Apply a liberal coating of anti-seize to the inside of the hub. This will ensure that if you ever have to remove it, you can. Then apply a light grease or some oil to the inside of the hub that goes against the motor. (this is a sealing surface.) Now line up the balancer on the keyway, and push it in as far as you can. It probably won't get very far. Try to get the crank bolt threaded into the crank. If it won't reach, get a rubber mallet (or deadblow hammer) and a block. Put the block over the balancer, and GENTLY tap on the block, while making sure the balancer is centered. In a battle of iron vs. aluminum, iron will win, and your shiny new balancer will be chewed up on the inside of the hub. Once the balancer is started, it will not rock back an forth anymore if you try to move it. Now try to start the crank bolt. If it goes in, you're in business. Tighten the bolt down as far as you can. It's almost amazing how easy it goes on with that anti-seize on it. Now back that bolt off a little and Put a dab of silicone sealer in the keyway to seal it all up. Re-tighten the bolt, and once you have it on as far as it can go without the crank turning, reverse step #4 to torque the crank bolt. I believe the proper tq setting is 150 ft-lbs.

12. You're almost there!! You will need a belt that is 1" shorter than stock. YOUR STOCK ONE IS TOO SHORT, I tried this. The one I got is actually about 1.5" shorter because the next size down was only .6 in. shorter. Reverse the belt remval process in step #1 to install the belt. MAKE SURE that you have all the grooves on the belt lined up with the grooves on the pulley. (i.e. get your groove on!! ;) )

13. Put your splash guard back on, and your wheel. Cinch up the lug nuts. Put your flywheel inspection cover back on. Jack up the car and remove the jackstands, and let her back down. Tighten lug nuts. Now you're ready to fire it up! Don't be nervous!!