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BUILD YOUR OWN FIBERGLASS ENCLOSURE (SpyderBox)-

1. First, remove the screws of your storage area and remove the doors and plastic molding. (This isn't absolutely necessary but it will make the job a whole lot easier and comfortable.)

2. This is what it will look like when it's removed. You will need to first remove the molding behind the driver's side to get the passenger's side out.

3. Then cover the entire thing with masking tape, and then duct tape.

TIP - I later discovered you could cover it with two layers of tin foil instead. This saves a lot of time and there won't be any adhesive residue to clean up afterwards.

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Now it is time to get started...

4. Cut the fiberglass mat, and place it in the tray. You want to leave some excess over the edges. It is better to have too much, than not enough. You will cut away the excess later.

5. Mix the fiberglass resin with the hardener. You will have about 3-5 minutes to spread the resin before it starts to harden.

TIP - Buy a box of disposable brushes and latex gloves, you will go through a lot of them. After each coat of fiberglass, you will need a new set of each, and you will be applying about 20 separate layers!

6. After the 2 hour drying time, apply another layer of mat and coat it with the resin.

TIP - Wait about 30-60 seconds for the resin to penetrate the fiberglass mat, and then use a dabbing motion to tap out any air bubbles between the first layer and the new one. Air pockets are bad!

7. After another 2 hours, pull out the fiberglass from its mold. (You could now reinstall the car's molding because you will not need it anymore for the project.) Cut away ALMOST all of the excess with some scissors. Then use a sander or grinder to smoothen the edges around the perimeter.

8. Use 3/4" MDF and cut a 9.5" circle (or square if you want to use a solo baric) and use dowels to elevate it to 5" high. 5" should be enough clearance for most 8" subwoofers and will give you the correct amount of internal volume but be sure to check your sub's "top mount depth" recommendation just to be sure before going any further.

TIP - I do not recommend using fleece for the base as shown below. Use fleece only for the first layer of the top. Try to use as much fiberglass mat as possible. It is obviously more expensive than the fleece but you will end up with a MUCH BETTER final product! The one pictured below needed to be thrown away due to it delaminating.

9. Stretch some fleece tightly over the top of the MDF "table" and staple it down to the fiberglass base. Then coat it with two layers of resin and it will harden. Make sure to pull it tight so there aren't any wrinkles along the perimeter.

10. Cut the hole to the recommended "cutout diameter". (Be sure it is correct because if you cut it too big, you will need to start all over again.) Remove the excess fleece and staples. Once you have access to the inside, you may begin laying more mat and pouring resin on the inside. This will fill in any little holes that the staples created and you may begin to make the walls of the enclosure thicker and more rigid.

11. Sand down and make the surfaces smooth. Get some stretch carpeting and some contact cement to bond the carpet to the enclosure.

12. Install you terminal cup and subwoofer and you're done!

13. Install it in your car and strap it down tight so it will not budge.

Click HERE for a shopping list with the location and estimated price for each item.

Good luck with your SpyderBox project. If you find any short cuts or tips of your own, please post them in my Guest Book and I will update this tutorial so others may benefit. Email me some pictures of your finished products too. I'll add a gallery and testimonials page.

These instructions were written by me 03/27/2004.

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Page 1 - My (OLD) Car � Exterior
Page 2 - My (OLD) Car � Interior & Sound System
Page 3 - Body Kit Gallery
Page 4 - Body Kit Gallery - Wide Body Kits
Page 5 - YOU ARE HERE