Legends never die...
R.I.P. John E. Lingenfelter. 1945-2003

This is my web page. there are many like it, but this one is mine...

this one spoke for itself. ;D

some of the first pics of the red monster. this one, taken about a year and a half ago when the car had a cutout, home made lid, 4:10's, bald nittos and a hypertech tune. (i should have left it alone :D)

here's the most current shot. along with a classic. 1 Vents-power!

so, after my old Heads/Cam motor spit a valve seat out (yes thats right, it came out of the head.) and trashed the head, piston, rod, and block, i had to go back with something new and improved. not wanting to risk an episode like that again, and having another motor laying around that i paid less than dirt for, i went to number crunchin. honestly, i didnt think i could swing a motor build like what i wanted to do, being a college student and all, but money just started coming in from various places, and i forked the rest out on credit. :D definately couldnt put a stock low compression 6.0 back in there...

the new motor ended up at 370 ci. i built it out of a .030 over 2k1 6L iron truck block. 11.3:1 compression, it's been line honed, i had the rotating assembly balanced at Rogers Precision Machine, (Bill is great to work with and A++ work ;D) and i assembled the rest at a good friend's shop. it's got forged eagle 6.125 h-beam rods, ARP rod bolts, full floating pins, diamond forged flat-top pistons, w/ the hotspots removed, -2cc valve reliefs and it sports a custom ground comp nitrous cam. 232/238 .580's lift on a 114 LSA (if you ever get bored, spend 1/2 hour talking with one of the guys at comp. best info ever.) i want to go back a little bit bigger very soon.. :D like 240-248 610/590 112 ish and at least 12.5:1 CR. but then i'd have to make it a 408-414, and i'd have to buy new... well, you get the idea.

the heads are "241" castings from a 2k1 vette, (like that matters) milled .030 that i ported in my garage. it's great what you can do with a die-grinder and some time. they actually came out better than i had anticipated, and im stoked because i definately wasnt going to spend as much money as some shops were asking for their worked over sets. they came out good enough for the time being, and i'll let the dyno numbers/ track times speak for the port work as soon as those get done. here's some pics. so far the car on motor, has pulled a procharged LS1 so i guess they're good enough for now, or until Kyle turns up the boost.

i had a valve job done for cheap insurance and installed comp's "blue stripe" 918's, and an LS6 intake. which has since been replaecd by a Lingenfelter/Weiand.

i went back with a new LS6 pump i ported, instead of using my old one. it makes almost 80 PSI at WOT. SDPC was pimp enough to get me a rollmaster adjustable Double Roller timing set for less than 100 bucks. (like 80 or so shipped) another insurance piece.

the N20 setup is being re-done, w/a fuel cell and a holley black pump. so it's finally coming along, dry first stage, wet second w/ big solenoids, purge, -6 feed line, and 2 bottles to keep the pressure up there. my entire focus of the 2 stage is simply to keep the torque curve as flat as possible in the upper rpm's, making a better useable area under the curve, and resulting in a nice feeling ride in any gear. basically nets results just like a turbo would w/ a nice flat tq curve. just, w/o the plumbing. if you can keep the cyllinder pressure constant throughout the rpm range, you maintain a flatter torque curve as well.

here's an example. this was one of my latest dyno sheets.

after a 2 day stay up in Waco at Nitro daves, we found out that the green top 42 lb injectors i had turned out not to be 42# injectors after all. very wierd.. never seen a 42# SVO injector that wasnt a 42, but apparently these are working as 38 pounders, but workin great on the bottle none the less. with the added intake walbro the fuel system is handled for spray, and once the front cell is finished i think i can push it to over 700 hp and 700 ft lbs.

boltons: i love these dynatech long tube headers. everyone else seems to stray away from them but @ 430 shipped, they're a steal, and darn good quality too. i did have to order some collectors from Judy Stahl (great customer service) and had them welded up at my favorite local muffler shop, as well as had them custom fab me a 3" y-pipe w/ 3" cutout, it runs out to a flowmaster muffler, and stock tips. it sounds ok, but could be better. it dosent really bother me enough to change it agian. plus i've got a set of true duals in the garage for track use. the intake tract has the great fernco mod, (3" plumbing adapter from home depo) a whisper lid, and yet another self ported piece, my worked throttle body w/coolant bypass.

weight reduction consists of: !emissions, !airpump, !seats, !swaybar(s) !front bumper support, front bumper
cover inlet ducts filled and repainted, custom home made "ram-air" ducting from facia, !spare,!jack equip, rear seatbelts, ect.. 3420 raceweight w/ 1/4 tank fuel and driver. before !dash, and the !ac system this winter.

t-56 6-speed trans, i rebuilt w/ iron shift forks. i have been using the spec S3 ceramic clutch, and let me tell ya, for cars under 600-650 HP, this is an awesome daily driver clutch that holds. im very impressed with the unit and i have had no problems with it at all. kudos to spec/star. im in the process of installing the new Mcleod street twin, and adjustable master w/ the drill out mod. should solve my clutch problems, and break my driveshaft after a few good nitrous launches ;D hey, ya gotta iron out the weak links some how right?

i've used 2k2 throw out bearings with better success than the older designs. the 98-99's had inherent issues, and just plain suck. i realized this after the first mcloud clutch literally exploded in the bellhousing.

the car also has an LT1 steel DS & Brute force u-joints. that seems to be holding so far, but i cant really launch it all that hard on the street either.

suspension: went w/ the Hal 12 ways all around. VERY nice adjustability. make for a great ride on around 6, and hookin' on the street when set on 2. eibach prokit springs front and back. i had to modify the spring collars to work w/ the hals, but it worked out ok. i want to change back to the stock springs in the front. the ride seems a bit too bouncy. RR air bag, BMR subframes (thanks Matt!), Spohn relocation brackets, Metco solid LCA's "madman" double adjustable PHR w/ spherical rod ends. OEM 17X9 silver 10-spoke SS wheels and 15X10 weld prostars 7.5 BS w/28X11.5 et streets and 15X3.5 runners for the track.

rear:
bolt in 9" i picked up from a friend. the guts were shot, so i pieced some new internals together w/ a daytona style aluminum pinion support, reider racing solid spacer kit, (what a pain) a 4:33 richmond gear, 31 spline moser axles, and an auburn posi pro. it cruises at 2000 RPM on the freeway @ 70 mph. very nice. i'd love a lightened 4.1 r&p though..

there's actually probably quite a bit more in there i just cant think of right now, but feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions about anything you've seen here. i love technical questions, as they help me out as much as they would you.

i've got some more pics of the car up as well as some of my old LT1 powered datsun project. you can check em' out here:

http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/vince071882/lst?&.dir=/&.src=ph&.view=t

new ET: 10.79@131

the car made several passes at the LS1 tech SBSO in san antonio. the last pass was shorted by a slippery track, which sucks because the car cut it's best 60' time of a 1.51 and should have run 10.40's ish based off of the 1.64 short time on the 10.7 et.

~Vince