This is a good view of my subframe mods, you can see the area removed and patched on the right side for exhaust and starter clearance (I used a Powermaster mini starter) in retrospect i could have used a little more clearance for starter access. The left motor mount allows the steering to pass through it. There's no mods to the power steering rack location.
Here the trans tunnel mods are done (big hammer good), the subframe has been painted and the suspension rebuilt with Powerflex bushings. I used a 280Z swaybar and made new mounts for it, it has a dropped area for the oil pan clearance that I liked. The underhood area has been repainted to match the future silver color of the car (I'm tired of red).
There were extensive oil pan mods. There's less than an 1/8" clearance to the rod caps, and about a 1/16" to the oil pump. I tried to add back the volume I cut out by adding to the back, it holds 5 quarts with a filter just like stock.
I just had to throw in another picture of the engine, ain't it purdy?
The joy of wiring. oy! Many hours of staring at the ford and miata diagrams, all smog equipment,speed sensor,clutch switch, AC WOT cut out work like stock.
Work begins on the diff mounts. Tacked in a temperary jig to center the diff. I used two more of the T-Bird front rubber mounts for the rear mount and mounted it on the diff cover mount like the stock T-Bird.
The rear subframe is done and painted, ready to mount the 7.5 ford posi. I used a 1990 ford pumpkin, an 86 posi carrier (which requires updated side gears to use) and 3:08 gear. The gearing seems about perfect to me, with the small diameter miata wheels the 3:08's are plenty low enough.
The back mount installed.
Front mount with driveshaft installed. I used a ford motosport aluminum shaft and had it shortened for the miata.