Well heres the latest project. A square front drive shaft, since quotes I got were between $400-$500 plus shipping to AK for a custom long travel shaft. Which I'd have to modify as soon as I went to a dual T-case setup. So I decide to fab up my own shaft. The square shaft seemed to be the easiest, cheapest way to get back 4X4, so this is the route I chose. I decided to go with regular u joint ends for the front shaft and save the CV end for the rear shaft when I go to dual cases. Now in doing this I ran into one problem. Nothing big, but I had to do a little internet research at the Pirate 4x4 toyota forum to find a simple solution. The problem I ran into, was the front output flange on the t case has a different bolt pattern than the flange on the front third member. The info I got said I had two options. One was to redrill the flange to the new pattern. The second option, the one I chose to take. The front and rear output flanges on the tcase are inerchangable, and the rear flange was the same bolt pattern as the front third. I found out that all the flanges are the same spline and bolt pattern, except the front out put, where the cv is. Since I have another t case, I can just take the rear output flange from and replace the front cv output flange on there now. I'd rather go the complete bolt up way rather than trust my eye to drill strait holes. Thanks to the members of the pirate 4x4 board, I've got nothing but good info for all of my projects and ideas. I started with two Toyota front drive shafts. One from my 4runner and the other from an 87 4runner. I took the front slip single u joint portions from these shafts. They just slide off from the spline. For the body of the shaft I used 2.5"x2.5"x.25" reciever hitch tube roughly about 18" long. This is the female side of the shaft, for the male side 2"x2"x.25" square stock. You may wonder why the reciever hitch tube, because there is no inner seam to effect the slip of the d shaft. I also opted to by new u joints to install at this time, since the u joint were a little worn out in both of the yokes that I used. Now that all of the parts are in place time to start construction. Heres a stock solid axle CV shaft. I used the piece to the right in the pic at both ends of the square shaft. I started on the male part of the shaft first. Step one, getting the round peg in the square hole. I had to grind off about 1/16" on four sides of the yoke. While doing this keeping in mind u joint phaseing, its easiest to line up the u joint ears with a flat side of the square stock. Also you want it to be a snug fit. When I had it groung to where it fit snug, I used a mini sledge to tap it all the way in, although a press would of been easier. Remember DO NOT HIT THE EARS OF THE YOKE. Hit between them, if you hit the ears, they will easily distort and the new u joints wont go in. When your happy with the fit, it is then time to weld. I ran three hot pass over the joint. Since I didn't like the looks of the welds I decided to grind them smooth.Now on to the female end of the shaft. Useing the front yoke from the 87 shaft, and a scrap peice of 2.25" OD by 2" long sch 40 pipe I started this end. The peice of pipe slide nicely over the spline stop of the yoke, only after removeing a welded on weigh for balancing. I then welded the peice of piped to the yoke.After welding I then cut off the remaining exposed splines on the yoke with a chop saw. Then had to grind about 3/32" off of four sides of the welded on pipe. Once again keeping u joint phaseing in mind. Once I had it ground into a squarish shape that fit tight into the reciever stock. I used a 4 ton press to press it in place. After its pressed in, its time to get out the welder again. I ran two hot passes over this end.Thats pretty much it, it just needs to be cut to length. I also decided to run two beads of weld down the entire length of the 2"x2" inner peice, and I also capped it off. I then ground down each side till it was a snug fit in the receiver stock. Not to tight of a fit though, you want to it to be able to slide eaisly, plus when you fill it with grease it should take out the rest of the slop, or at least absorbe the noise of a loose fit. Well heres the finished product. ColapsedExtended Here it is installed.Here it is in action.Parts list and cost breakdown2.5"x2.5".25"x24" Hitch Reciever tube $622"x2"x.25"x24" Square stock $52 Napa 387 u joints $242 front slip yokes from two front shafts FREEBIESTotal cost $91 And about 6 hrs of labor, probably less depending on skills and tools.