After mounting the T5 solidly, I measured the distance from the back of the driveshaft flange with the yoke inserted leaving the same amount protruding as it was in the Ranger transmission (the yoke diameter and spline count is the same for a T5 and a 3.0L 5 spd.) and determined that I needed 2” hacked off. I located a local company willing to shorten and balance my shaft for a mere $80. I thought that was pretty reasonable these days. I found that this shop had a worksheet online where they ask for a series of measurements to determine how much your shaft should be shortened. Things like distance from the rear end flange to the transmission tail housing seal mounting surface, amount of tail shaft protrusion from the tail housing, diameter of differential centering, etc., verify that you have the right flange on your driveshaft), and the number of splines on your tail shaft (verify you have the right yoke on your driveshaft). Most of this is to make sure you’ve supplied the right driveshaft, but the rest is to calculate the shaft length. Turns out that they figured I needed to have 1 ¾” removed. Pretty close to my 2”, but I went with their estimate because I figured they knew better. I could’ve gone with 2” though because the yoke length for the Ranger 5 spd. is 1” longer than the Mustang T5. Oh well, as long is it doesn’t bottom out.After mounting the driveshaft, I found that the distance from the front of the driveshaft yoke to the rear of the tail shaft housing is within 1/32” from the OEM Ranger setup, so I can’t really complain.Today, I planned on swapping the door locks and the ignition lock cylinder to match the Explorer/Mountaineer PCM and keys. Sadly, I found that the keys for the ignition and PCM do not match the doors. I must assume that the previous owner lost his keys at some point and opted to change only the ignition and get the PCM flashed. As a result, I swapped only the ignition lock cylinder.