Page 1: Performance Mods List
Page 2: Stereo
Page 3: Cosmetic
Page 4: Random
Page 5: Me
Page 6: Miscellaneous Pics
Page 7: Various Meets
HP rating at the left is an estimation based off of dyno data from this website by Dave Black. His car is setup almost exactly like mine with the same boost setting and BOV, the only difference is he has a catback system with stock forward setup and I have a free flowing cat-forward system with stock catback. If I had to guess, I would expect to see a higher HP yeild than the one listed because of less restriction in the exhaust but without proper dyno data I will just use the closest calculated setup.
Flywheel HP: 400HP
All Wheel HP: 305HP
Drivetrain loss: ~25% (this percentage is common on AWD vehicles, unfortunantly)
In addition, according to my chassis dyno (fancy electronics), I am peaking out at 335 Hp at the wheels (which equates out to 447Hp at the flywheel using the 25% drivetrain loss) and is a bit more than I expected but I don't think it is very accurate.
Flywheel HP: 400HP
All Wheel HP: 305HP
Drivetrain loss: ~25% (this percentage is common on AWD vehicles, unfortunantly)
Currently Installed Performance Mods
K&N FIPK (Filter Charger)
GReddy Type-S Blow Off Valve (BOV)
3SX Performance Automotive Downpipe
Random Technology Ultra-High Flow Cat
DN Performance (DNP) Pre-Cat Eliminators
Front DNP Pre-Cat Eliminator
Rear DNP Pre-Cat Eliminator
EK2 Manufacturing Fuel Rail Modification
Blitz DTT DC II Turbo Timer
Blitz SBC i-D III Sequential Boost Controller
Here you can see where the wastegate actuator is mounted and the last picture shows how well it is hidden. I took about 5 pictures after the install and this is the only one that actually came out to something visible.
Blitz PM i-D III Power Meter
Installed pics of my Blitz equipment in my custom mounting pod.
Angled shot with flash.
This is roughly my angle while driving. I have the contrast set to where I can read the the displays while driving if desired; however, this does make it difficult for passengers to read what is being displayed.
Just a random shot for your viewing pleasure; giving you another angle. I will have some more pics in the near future which should be during the day and hopefully will come out much better.
PWR Aluminum Racing Raditor, it is 50% larger than the stock one and is a direct drop in upgrade that is less expensive than a stock replacement part.
Modified DSM Side Mount Intercoolers (SMICs), each will flow 200 cubic feet per minute for a total of 400 cubic feet per minute. That is double what the stock SMICs flow (100 cfm each) and an additional 25 cfm (each) over the HKS SMIC kits (175 cfm each) for a fraction of the price.
Additionally, if you have seen the 3000GT/Stealth stock SMICs then you can obviously tell that these are about double the size.
Here are some shots of my stock ICs before I removed them.
Just to prove my previous point, you can see here that these DSMs are roughly twice the size as my stock ICs.
Here is the finished product, the DSMs installed; I have already noticed an increased ability to boost much quicker than before and I am not sure how much more power these have given me but I have also noticed that the car does pull a bit harder:
DN Performance Pre-turbo intake pipes.
Here are some pics of the pipes installed:
Rear (You can barely see it under there):
DN Performance Intercooler Piping. These are mostly cosmetic but they also do not flex under pressure unlike the stock rubber intercooler piping.
3SX Stainless Steel Braided Clutch Line.
3SX Performance Automotive lightweight underdrive pulley. I had an issue with my stock pulley (pics can be veiwed on page 6) so instead of just replacing it, I decided to upgrade it; the thing only weighs in at 1.7lbs (stock one weighs in at 6.7lbs) and is the same diameter as the stock pulley so I do not lose any performance to my alternator, A/C system, or power steering system but I have a little less load on my engine (which is always a good thing).
Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines from 3SX Performance.
Here is a quick glance at them installed.
Full set of Slotted and Cross Drilled Vented Rotors (with and without flash). The fronts are from Bradi (a subdivision of Brembo) and the rears are from SBI:
Hawk Performance HPS Brake pads all around with a couple of bottles of Motul RBF 600 Dot 4 performance brake fluid.
It may not look like anything special but the pads are the Hawk's installed:
Caliper Stiffening bolts from Supercar Engineering (yeah, I know it's a little lame of an "upgrade" but these will actually make a pretty big difference).
I bought some 1200 degree paint and painted them black; I figured it would look better agaist the red and it would help prevent them from rusting.
Speed Bleeders from www.speedbleedes.com; not much of a "performance upgrade" but definantly a convienece though. No installed pics yet but who really cares, you can't tell them apart from any other bleed screw.
24 3rd gen lifters; these have a 3mm opening which makes it 3 times larger than the factory original (1mm). These came stock on the '99 and new cars; the older Mitsubishi engines were notorious for having an annoying lifter tick as a result of insufficient oil flow. The 3mm lifters remedy this problem.
Here's a quick shot of the first couple installed. I wanted to take a couple of pics of putting them in just like I always do so I did the first two before I got too dirty.
I wanted to take a quick comparison shot to give an idea of what a huge difference these make. If you look, the one on the right is the factory original in '94 and the one on the left is the newer '99 version. After looking at the older one, I am thinking that the hole is probably less than 1mm but either way when I started the car it purred like a kitten. It only took a few hours for me to install these and I recommend them to anyone who wants to get rid of the lifter tick common on the older Mitsubishi engines.
Some new pics for a better view. These are installed in the new heads:
Automotive Racing Products (ARP) main stud kit.
Main studs installed.
Set of Pauter Forged rods:
Pauter Forged rods installed.
Clevite77 Main and Rod bearings.
CP Pistons. These are the factory 8:1 compression ratio still, however, they are .030" (0.75mm) larger in diameter than stock pistons. Once the block is bored and honed, the end result will be a much more true 3.0L engine. The factory displacement is actually 2972.3cc's (91.1mm bore with a 76.0mm stroke); the small increase in bore size to allow for these pistons will have a final displacement of 3024.7cc's (91.9mm bore with a 76.0mm stroke) which isn't much but it will be a true 3.0L.
CP Pistons Installed.
Supercar Engineering's 3000GT/Stealth Racing Oil pan which contains a baffle with a one-way trap door, which keeps most of the oil near the oil pickup tube. During high accelerations oil sloshes and moves around the pan. That sometimes causes the oil pickup tube to be partially exposed. When that happens, the tube will be sucking air from the oil pan and not oil. This racing oil pan will help ensure the oil pickup is always submerged under oil. Additionally, the large kick-out area provides an extra 1.25 quarts of oil as a reserve for longer turns. This combination increases the amount of oil near the oil pickup to a healthy 1.9 quarts! The oil pickup stays fully submerged.
A good view of the increased pan size.
Here is a shot of the baffle partially opened.
Supercar Engineering's 3/S Racing Oil Pan installed:
Automotive Racing Products (ARP) head stud kit.
Installed, awaiting the heads.
Cometic Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) oversized head gaskets.
Stage III heads from Dynamic Racing:
These heads feature 1mm oversized super alloy Ferra valves which are back cut and swirl polished for increased flow (Ferrea Super Alloy Valves were specifically designed for high boost/high nitrous applications where extremely high combustion temperatures are present - Super Alloy Valves are used by many Top Fuel Dragsters). Additionally, these heads feature a 5 Angle Valve Job for the Ferra valves, a reshaped combustion chamber (unshrouds the valves for Better Flow), has the combustion chamber flaws removed (helps prevent detonation by removing hot spots), OEM valve springs, OEM keepers and retainers, and OEM valve seals; all of which will not float even when pushed past 8000RPM (I plan to program the redline at about 7000RPM which is plenty of buffer).
Here you can see the port work on the exhaust, you can see the fully ported exhaust ports and how the factory casting flaws have been removed from the exhaust chamber.
As for the intake, you can see the port and polish done to it as well.
Here's a look at the intake on a set of stock heads for a quick comparison. This will give you an idea of how much material was removed and how polished the port really is.
DR Stage III heads installed:
Crower high rev spring kit with titanium lifters. The springs are made from premium Chrome Silicon Vanadium Steel alloy for higher performance & durability at high rpms and the retainers are made of Military-grade Titanium for the best in light-weight and reliable performance.
Here's a quick comparison shot of the stock valve springs (left) and the Crowers.
Rear Adjustable Control Arms from 3SX performance:
Left and right installed:
Saner Performanec Rear Sway Bar:
Here is the Saner Performance rear sway bar and the stock rear sway bar side by side for comparison. You can see that the Saner bar is significantly simpler in design.
Here you can see the thickness difference in the two bars. Additionally, the Saner bar is made of a stronger alloy so it is not only heavier in mass but it is also structurally more rigid; therefore, providing a significant improvement in anti-sway from the rear suspension.
Rear sway bar installed (underneath the mess of All Wheel Steering (AWS) tubing):
In preparation for the new turbos, I purchaced some CNC Machined Aluminum fuel rails from Ek2 Development (a.k.a. Ek2Mfg) which will house some larger injectors and fed by a larger fuel pump. There will be more to come soon (awaiting delivery on lots of goodies).
Here is a quick comparison shot with my spare set of stock polished fuel rails.
I was trying to show the difference in flow hole size between the two fuel rails. It is difficult to tell, but the new ones are actually quite a bit larger, therefore, I'll have more fuel in the rail and will have less of a chance of starving the injectors (especially if I keep the series flow path with these like the stock setup but I am actually planning to make it a Y feed and return).
Fuel rails installed with stock 360cc injectors (the stock injectors have been reinstalled for the break-in period).
DN Performance tubular exhaust manifolds (a.k.a. headers).
Front header installed:
Rear header installed:
Aeromotive 10 micron Fuel Filter with all the Earl's Performance Plumbing fittings and adapters needed to connect this piece to my stock fuel line from the gas tank and right up to the new stainless fuel lines.
Fuel filter setup fully assembled and painted (I painted the fittings for no real reason). Installation is next up.
Here's the Aeromotive filter setup compared to the stock filter it's replacing. Not really much to see here I guess.
Installed. I had a slight delay on the install because the Aeromotive filter is significantly thinner than the stock filter in diameter so the bracket wouldn't tighten around it. To compensate for this, I took a piece of rubber from an old belt to fill the gap. Honestly, it's a little cheesy but it solved the problem quite nicely.
WebCam Street Grind cams. These are slightly more aggressive than the stock cams but will allow me to gain the most mid-range power on the new turbos without being overly aggressive. These cams feature a 242 degree duration, a 200 degree rotation @ .050, and a 110 degree lobe center with a .400 valve lift on both intake and exhaust cams. The intake valves will open -10 degrees before Top Dead Center (TDC) and close 30 degrees after Bottom Dead Center (BDC) while the exaust valves will open 30 degrees before BDC and close -10 degrees after TDC.
Front Cams installed:
Rear Cams installed:
Fidanza aluminum adjustable cam gears. Made from 6061 T6 billet aluminum and CNC machined for a precise fit and finsih. Ajustable to plus or minus twelve degrees of timing giving the ability to tune the engine for the most useable power while saving added weight.
Cam Gears installed:
Kevlar timing belt from Power Enterprise. The Belt doesn't offer any performance gain however it is significantly stronger and proven to last much longer than the OEM timing belt therefore prolonging the life between belt changes.
Power Enterprise part number in case you're interested.
Installed and timing set:
In response to the poll I've had up for well over a year now, I have finally saved enough to be able to purchase a brand new pair of DR650R turbos from Dynamic Racing which I have wanted for a couple of years.
Here you can see the compressor wheels, if you've ever seen a pair of the stock 9b's then you will easily be able to tell that these are a world of difference better.
This is a shot of the turbine which has a 15 degree clip.
Compressor comparison, stock on the right:
Turbine comparison, stock on the right:
Front turbo installed:
Rear turbo bolted down:
MSD 8.5mm Spark Plug Wire Set.
Stainless steel braided turbo oil line kit from 3SX Performance.
I decided not to go with the stainless steel oil feed lines because they don't work (as in, the way they are setup, the will not bolt up properly). However, the stainless steel oil return lines are excellent; 10x better than the stock lines and much easier to work with. Here's a couple of pics of them installed:
Front Turbo return line.
Rear Turbo return line.
Adjustable lower ball joints from Supercar Engineering.
RPS Carbon-Carbon Twin disc clutch.
Here you can see the multiple layers however you can only see the outer disc and the center plate, the inner disc actually sits in the flywheel and cannot be seen in this picture.
The RPS Carbon-Carbon Twin disc clutch all spread out. This clutch system is designed to hold a torque of 1000ft-lbs. Will I ever be producing that much? No way in hell, however, this will be the last clutch I'll ever need for any modification I do.
Stock Block Bored and Honed by Britco Racing Engines in Centralia, WA. The block was bored .030" over (with a torque plate) to fit the CP Pistons. Additionally, I had a full balance done on the internals so it is a fully balanced engine.
Here's a close-up of the cylinder wall after being machined. Picture perfect work.
Finally installed and being finished up. Almost ready for first startup.
Polyurethane motor mounts from Ek2 Development. These are completely custom made (not just poly filled stock mounts like everyone else) therefore eliminating the factory manufacturing flaws and producing a mount that is ten times stronger than the original while being half the size and only retaining half the wieght.
Left side mount installed.
Front mount installed.
Right side/transmission mount installed.
Rear mount installed.
Saner Performance Front Sway Bar:
Here's a comparison shot with the stock front sway bar.
Front sway bar installed
Earl's Performance Plumbing (A Holley Company) -6AN fittings and -6AN Perform-O-Flex Stainless Steel Line for my Y fuel feed and return setup to run with the EK2 Performance Fuel Rails. Note, the Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS) Y connectors were the only ones I could find but I know others who have used them in thier fuel setup and they have worked perfectly. I have everything there to run from the filter to the Y-feed, to each rail, back from each rail, to the Y-return, and to the Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Can you see them? The Y-feed went together quite well; however, the Y-return was a bit of a pain to complete and I don't think it came out quite as clean as the feed. Anyhow, it's all assembled and installed. I painted the hoses/fittings black so that they would be less noticible; it didn't come out quite as well as I'd hoped.
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator with -6AN connections and various Earl's fittings to connect this with my fuel lines and the sending unit to my Auto Meter fuel pressure guage (pictured).
Installed a convienently hidden location.
My future front mount oil cooler. This is a Setrab 920-8 oil cooler and has a 16"x6" core with about 18 flow channels. Compare this with the stock 8"x6" with 9 flow channels; there will be a definite improvement.
Here are a couple of pictures to show how thick this oil cooler is compared to the stock one (you can see pics of the stock oil cooler above with the pics of my DSM sidemount intercoolers).
That's right, this thing is roughly as wide as two quarters set side by side.
Mounted in front of the A/C Condenser
Earl's Performance Plumbing -8AN Fittings and -8AN Pro-Lite 350 Hose for my Setrab Front Mount Oil Cooler setup.
All plumbed and ready to go.
THE FOLLOWING MODIFICATIONS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED, HOWEVER, I DO NOT HAVE ANY INSTALLED PICS LIKE I USUALLY DO DUE TO MY DIGITAL CAMERA TAKING A CRAP ON ME (PERHAPS IT'S FROM TAKING SOME MANY PICS OF SUCH AN UGLY CAR :D). ANYHOW, FOR THOSE INTERESTED, I'LL GET PICS UP AS SOON AS I CAN.
To complete my 3" exhaust (I've been running the stock catback for a while which is 2.5", everything I've replaced is all 3") I have a custom made IPS Motorsports catback which is cut from 304 Stainless, has mandrel bends, and some of the finest welds I've ever laid eyes on.
Welded to the catback are dual A'pexi N1 mufflers which are well known for being very unrestrictive and for having a nice exhaust tone. This entire setup will be leaps and bounds over the stock catback but I will lose the active exhaust feature (not a big deal to me).
Tein Flex electronically adjustable coilover set with upper pillow ball mounts and adjustable hieght (Front).
Tein Flex electronically adjustable coilover set with adjustable hieght (Rear).
HKS Twin Power Ignition Amplifier for DLI type ignition systems.
Denso Supra fuel pump; this is the fuel pump which came stock in the Toyota Supra TT and is a factory drop in upgrade to my stock fuel pump. The stock fuel pump puts out 180lph (48gph) at 13.5V with the stock 43psi fuel pressure where as this pump puts out 277lph (73gph) at 13.5V with 43psi fuel pressure. Pictured with the fuel pump is an IPS Motorsports hotwire kit that will bypass the stock voltage regulator to the fuel pump. The stock voltage regulator runs roughly 6-7V to the fuel pump continuously and 10-11V as engine RPM increases; the hot wire kit will allow the fuel pump to see 12V at idle and roughly 13-14V when engine RPMs are raised and alternator output increases.
Advanced Engine Management (AEM) Engine Management System (EMS). This is a fully programmable stand alone Engine Control Unit (ECU) which will allow me to tune the car as I desire to get either the most out of it for the drag strip or to allow the car to be driveable for day to day stuff (no street racing here).
Advanced Engine Management's (AEM) Dual Wideband Universal Exhaust Gas Oygen (UEGO) Controller. This comes with two Bosch LSU4.2 UEGO sensors that are far superior to the standard O2 sensor; especially, my stock 2 wire narrow band sensors.
EGR Blockoff Plates from Supercar Engineering that are CNC machined from high-quality 6061-T6 aluminum.
Here are the Denso 720cc (~69lb) injectors.
NGK Iridium spark plugs. These are just a touch better than the factory original NGK Platinums. Iridium is 8 times stronger than platinum, 6 times harder, and has a melting point 1200 degrees higher. The result is a plug that requires less voltage to spark, burns more of the fuel in the cylinder, and can spark at LEANER air/fuel mixtures resulting in higher horsepower and better gas mileage. The iridium electrode is extremely resistant to erosion, therefore it will last MUCH longer than a normal plug (longevity will vary by usage, fuel mixture, and other factors). Basically, I won't have to change plugs as often.
The NGK BKR8EIX is 2 stages colder than the factory prescribed NGK platinums. I've had a few questions as to where these compare to the Denso iridium plugs; these are equivalent to the Denso IK24 plugs. The NGK BKR9EIX plug is equivalent to the Denso IK27 plug.
AEM Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor.
AEM Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) Sensor. Output ranges from 0-5V and reads from 0 to 3.5 bar (50 psia) which is more range than I should ever need (especially on this little V6).
Tein Electronic Damping Force Controller (EDFC) which is used to control the dampening rate of the Tein Flex coilovers electronically from within the cabin of the car. Basically, I can control the stiffness of my suspension without getting out of the vehicle to adjust it. Very similar to the stock Electronically Controlled Suspension (ECS) system but much much better. The EDFC allows for 3 preset dampening rates which will give me the ability to have a setting for very soft for around town and a setting for very stiff for when I'm at the track and then a setting for somewhere in the middle for high speed cornering while on the road (or something to that effect).
Here, you can see the 4 small modules that will actually mount to the top of the coilovers which are controlled by the EDFC to adjust damping rate.
Front and rear strut bars from T.E.C. Performance.
Front strut bar with battery mount.
Rear strut bar with molding inserts that will allow the bar to appear as part of the factory interior. T.E.C. Performance is currently the only company which features any sort of interior molding panel that will give the product a professional appearance.
Upcoming Performance Mods - these items are not "future" mods but are items I have purchased and have yet to be installed (no wish lists here guys), just stay tuned for updates as the progress continues towards completion.
Since I will be running a higher boost pressure, the GReddy Type-S BOV I currently have installed will not be reliable in remaining shut under the higher pressures and be able to guarantee that it will prevent compressor surge at lower boost pressures. So, I purchased an HKS Super Sequential Blow Off Valve (SSQV) which is a "pull type" valve. Basically, it is a reverse seated valve, the higher I boost, the harder it shuts, and when the trottle plate closes, this valve is "pulled" open by the vacuum created in the intake plenum. This valve will also open under an intake vacuum so I am guaranteed to not have compressor stall under the entire boost range depending on when I shift and varying engine load. Above all, this is a superior valve, especially compared to the GReddy Type-S.
AEM Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) Sensor which has a range from -40C to 1000C (I hope my EGTs don't get that high).
MSD Ignition Coils. These are actually for a GM but they have been used in 3/S cars before so they will be a drop in upgrade. MSD doesn't specifically make a set for the 3000GT or Stealth (from what I have found) and these are the closest thing to the factory coils available.
Precision Shaft Technologies (PST) Carbon Fiber one-piece driveshaft. This shaft only weighs in at 17lbs vice the stock shaft at ~45lbs fully assembled (as viewed), therefore, reducing drivetrain losses as well as wieght.
The stock shaft and the PST shaft closeup.