Page 1: Pictures of my car
Page 2: Summary of my car, 924 vs 944, 924 vs 924S, model info, VIN # help and links
Page 3: Misc. pictures
Page 4: Jacking/jackstands/lifting tips
Page 5: Maintenance intervals and Troubleshooting
Page 6: Porsche Price List
Page 7: A ton of info, used Porsche buyer questions, power to weight ratio, weight reduction {to increase your horse power ratio}

Advice as well as questions to ask if you are buying a Porsche.
{All prices are in American dollars unless it says Canadian}

IF YOU DON'T FEEL COMFORTABLE WITH INFORMATION HERE, DON'T USE IT! IT'S YOUR CAR USE YOUR OWN JUDGEMENT!

Thanks to the guys and gals at www.924board.org for the help. They are great people to chat with about 924 problems and fixes.

If you're worried about maintenance costs, do not buy any 924/944/924S. The 944/924S cars require religious maintenance and they will do Very Expensive Bad Things if you ignore even "minor" maintenance. The 924 2.0 Litre cars are less maintenance intensive, but they are older. And as a friend of mine is fond of saying, "old stuff is old stuff". This is especially true of electrical systems. If you want a reliable car that will be cheap to maintain and that will not give you problems, get a Volkswagon or a Toyota. It's all about the how great cars handle, knowing what you have and being anal about maintenance.

Try to find an original car without repaired body damage, any rust would signify a car you should pass on. Since body panels are so expensive and very hard to find in great shape.
If you can find a car with four wheel disc brakes (five bolt wheels), you will save yourself the trouble of paying for and doing the conversion.

Check the whole car for crash damage, or badly repainted or rusty parts.
Prefer buying a 1981 or later, because of they are fully galvanized and won't rust.
Check exhaust from blue or black smoke, there shouldn't be any.
Check the fuel linings for rust, some 924 will have badly rusted fuel linings.
Check handbrake, it should work perfectly when in fine working order.
Slalom the car it shouldn't react boat wise or shocky / bumpy.
The gearbox can make a soft sounding noise, somewhat like that of a jetfighter, this is normal.
When the gearbox makes severe rattling or graining sounds, then the gearbox is bad.
Check ALL rubbers around windows, rear hatch, doors, windshield, etc. for leakage.
Check correct operation of front head light motor, it should raise without any strange sounds.
Check the metal under the driver's seat, some people jack up the car on a wrong manner, and demolish the underside of the passenger's seat.
Try all gears including reverse and overdrive {if auto}, all should react normal.
Check if the engine can accelerate quickly, it shouldn't be sluggish, and should pull strongly in every gear.
Check water pump pulley for free play by pulling/pushing it in all directions.
Check for all electrics. Dim lights {wait for night fall. My interior lights are a little dim and the tail lights are dim as well} probably have ground wires or weak wiring issues.
Points of Inspection: Here is what to ask the owner of the car about:
Is the seller the original owner? Where are the car maintenance records? How complete are they?
Is there any rust on the car? (Surface rust is not bad, as long as parts are not rusted out, or needing sheet metal. Deep rust or rusted out parts are bad. Floor pan rust is bad and hard to replace. Rocker panel rust is bad.)
Is the car painted in its original colour?
Is the paint faded unevenly?
Will it need a new paint job?
Has the car had regular oil changes at every 3,000 miles?
Does the car burn oil? Note that the 944 and possibly 924S are slight oil consumers. You should expect 1 quart of oil every 600 miles {1,000 kms}.
Get in the habit of checking the oil every two FULL tanks of gas. Keep a bottle of 20W50 in the hatch or those compartments in the hatch area.
Did the owner always use 20W50 oil? This is the preferred grade for the 924 {depending on your temperatures and weather}.
How is the engine? Start the engine with the hood up so you can hear everything better. Find out the compression test figures {The most important thing is that the numbers from the test are close, ei: 150, 155, 145, 150}. Depending on your car ie: Euro or US spec, turbo, strong engine, etc... your compression numbers can be from 120 or so to 170 like my 77 Euro spec. A P&P will also raise compression. Watch the lights when turning on the car and see if the alternator is working correctly. A knock coming from the top of the engine could point to worn lifters. Worn lifters may cost as much as $300 to repair. Don't forget to check for squealing belts (fan, AC or steering). Ignition troubles with points are a simple fix that can be done for $100 or less.
How is the steering? Check for any peculiarities, or sounds that the steering might make. Also check the ball joints. Bent or broken A-arms can end up costing $200-300- per side. he steering on the 924 is VERY precise. It should be fairly easy to haul the car through a tight turn, and by turning the wheel back and forth, there should be no play or wobble at all. If you feel vibrations at speed, that's the road! {You feel EVERYTHING at high speeds, ie: 160 kph. Rhythmic vibrations, regardless of road texture should be checked out!
Does the transmission feel like it did when the car was new? Difficult shifting into gear is tricky to diagnose, the problem could be a worn clutch or simply bad transmission oil. 924 transmissions can be found for cheap. Complete replacement is about $300 (to remove an old one and install a new one). Don't worry about abusing it. The fact is, these are tough little units that can take a beating. Are the gears meshing smoothly? Once in a while, it may be tough to get the car into reverse, don't sweat it, change the oil and see if the problem goes away.
How old is the clutch? (These cost from $150 to $333 for the kit, and labor is about $400 - $600).
How does the clutch backlash feel?
Are there any gaps or spaces in the body panels? Big gaps usually means body work or different/new fender. Check to see if the body is sagging.
How old are the struts? These aren't too hard for any shop to replace. Go with high-quality ones if you can, and you WILL notice a difference.
Any water or fluid leaks? Make sure that the car does not leak. The problems and costs are as follows: Hatch leaks; worn seal: $60 Passenger side foot well; battery leaking: $50 Sunroof leaks; check drain hoses for blockage. Fluid leakage in engine compartment, look near motor mounts: Power steering leakage; entire control arm replacement: $300 or more Radiator leak; $300- $400 (it's not too hard to replace the radiator yourself) Coolant leak; anywhere from $10 to $200, depending on what hose, and how bad. Check oil level - do not tolerate a car that leaks oil!
Has all the air been bled from coolant system? This may seem minor, but an engine can blow or at least overheat and leave you stranded for hours, because of this minor oversight.
How old are the motor mounts? (If engine has excessive vibration @ idle, then disappears @1200 RPM, then the motor mounts could be bad.)
How old is the water pump? (If there is a noise or there is any leaking fluid, then the pump must be replaced. We've seen brand new pumps going for as low as $20, so don't worry, they're not the super-expensive 944 type. Also, make sure the pump hasn't leaked on any belts.
How old and in what condition is the exhaust system? Make sure to check headers. Blue smoke coming from the exhaust could be pointing to a bad valve stem seals or rings.)
When was the last emissions check done?
How old is the timing belt? You don't have to worry about the expensive 944 timing belt troubles. Belts are less than $10 from any Porsche supply store.
How old are the brakes? (Make sure to check the fluid in the master cylinder Also check the hoses for cracks. Check the tubing for rust. Check the calipers for leaks.)
How old is battery? (You can get a great one at Sears for $70 or less, and they should check the old one for free)
Does the heater work? If the heater is not getting hot enough then there might be cooling system damage or a bad thermostat. Check the radiator fluid with the litmus paper and ask when the last time the cooling system was flushed.
Does the speedometer and odometer work? (These aren't hard to fix, but the work is time consuming and kind of annoying. It sounds kind of funny, but some guys actually gauge their mileage by how much oil is consumed. Hey, don't knock it, on a good engine it works.)
How old is the oil pump? These are hard to repair and possibly expensive. How is the Capacitive Discharge Ignition? Listen for a high-pitched whine while the car is on. The CD box is a silver box near the front of the engine compartment on the driver's-side. If you do not hear a whine, or if the engine misfiring at high RPMs, then the car may need a new CD ignition. These are easy to fix, but expensive, and there are good after-market options.
How old is the alternator? If the engine cranks slowly and the lights are dim even when engine revs up, then the car may need a new alternator. Always consider a new voltage regulator when replacing the alternator. Alternator replacement is about $250 (including labor and belt tensioning). Don't worry if the alternator light comes on dimly while driving with your high beams on... the belt may just need to be tightened. How is the starter? If the starter won't turn over when the engine is hot, then the car might need a starter relay kit. Many starting problems are due to high heat transfer from the engine and transmission causing a voltage loss. This is a very cheap and simple fix needing only simple tools. Also if the engine doesn't turn over when hot, check the engine-to-chassis ground strap. You can get good grounding kits from several places for $15 or less. Replace this part and install a starter relay on all old 924s. This is cheap and easy to do. How is the headlight motor? This is an easy fix, but about $250 each. Get them from parts yards for less than $50 each and save the cash.
How is the fuel accumulator? Leaking and defective ones are dangerous. They cause hard starting. They are not hard to fix, but are kind of expensive (around $100-$150) on 1979 and later cars. Also do this carefully and don't break a fuel line!
How is the fuel injection? Fuel injectors should all be replaced at the same time, if there is anything wrong with them. They aren't too hard to replace, but are a pain. They are about $50 each. It is very important to check the injection boot. Oil rotted or cracked boots can disable the car! Check these regularly! If you have some time, clean them up with silicone spray and shine them up like new, you will be able to see any small cracks much easier. Fix them with regular Permetex black silicone that comes in a toothpaste-tube looking thing. Get this stuff it at K-Mart for $2.00 or less and save yourself $100 or more!
How is the cold start valve? A defective or leaky cold start valve causes hard starting and rough idle when engine is warm. These aren't too expensive, or too hard to replace.
How is the fuel pump? If engine cranks for a long time before it fires up when hot, but starts fine when cold, there may be a leaking check valve in the fuel pump. (it could also be a leaky accumulator). Fuel pumps can run from $90 to $250.
How is the sway bar link? If you turn the wheel all the way to the left (or right) and look at the suspension, you'll see these little "lollipop" bars that attach to the front sway bars. If these break, or bend, then your car will not handle very well These are easy to fix, and only cost about $50 each.
How are the sway bars?
How is the fresh air and heater control? These are not too hard to fix, but are ridiculously expensive and sometimes hard to find. Get them from a junked car in a yard, or from a parts car you see on the internet, or just ignore it.
How does the front nose panel look? This is expensive because you need a welder, and painting to replace.
How is the front valance? This is easy to fix, for about $125.
How is the gas cap? This is an often overlooked part... that you can get from a VW rabbit for about $5 to $20. How are the lights? Lights are easy to fix, but are delicate. They are also kind of expensive if more than one must be fixed.
Has the car ever been in a flood? Make sure to check and smell for mildew, check for moisture on flood damaged cars.
There are literally hundreds of questions you should have answered before buying a 20+ year old Porsche.

IF YOU DON'T FEEL COMFORTABLE WITH INFORMATION HERE, DON'T USE IT! IT'S YOUR CAR USE YOUR OWN JUDGEMENT!

Thanks to the guys and gals at www.924board.org for the help. They are great people to chat with about 924 problems and fixes.

Power to weight info:

Don't let people think your Porsche is never going to go as fast as there car because they have more horsepower. Horsepower only means how fast it can get up to speed in the basic sense. To get up to speed you need to figure this formula:

Total weight divided by Horsepower = Your Power to weight ratio

This number in itself tells you nothing. But you can use it to compare what would happen if you lost 100 lbs. For example:

You have a 1994 Mazda Miata with 128 hp and 2490 lbs. = 19.45 pounds per hp

and

a 1990 Mazda Miata with 116 hp and 2365 lbs. = 20.39 pounds per hp

Now even though your 1990 Miata weighs less, it's horsepower only allows it with the weight get to 60 mph in 9.1 seconds, while your 1994 Miata gets to 60 mph in 8.8 seconds

Lets have a little fun with this. Lets take out 150 pounds out of the 1990 Miata. That would be a spare tire, carpeting, sound proofing, and other items that only slow the car down. Your weight is now 2215 and your hp hasn't changed so your power-to-weight ratio is 19.09 pounds per hp. Compairing that with your stock 1994 Mazda Miata that is less pounds per horsepower. So we do another 0-60 run with the 1990 Miata and we come up with 8.65 seconds to 60 mph. You ask how is that possible? The 1990 Miata has less horsepower..?!

The answer is power-to-weight ratio

A Stock 924 with the 3.89 differential 4 speed (a 77.5 to 79) has an 2680 lbs of weight and does 60 miles per hour in 10.3 seconds. Now lets take the same car and drop the weight down to 2450 lbs. The 0-60 drops down to 9.5 seconds! There are no modifications to the engine.

A college group did a test to figure out horsepower. They ran up the stairs and figured out how long it took. Then the same person would get someone on there back (piggy back) and run up the stairs. To get there in the same amount of time with an extra person riding on your back it took a lot more horsepower. So, the measured amount of horsepower does not mean anything unless you also have the weight figures as well. Think of the person running up the stairs like a quarter mile. A light weight car and a heavy car got to the 1/4 mile in the same exact time. Obviously the heavy car has more horsepower than the light weight car in order to get to the same spot at the same time. So woop-dee do to your big horsepower figures!

Drop weight from your car to increase your hose power ratio. Here are a few tips:

To drop about 60-70 lbs: Take out the entire AC unit. This droppes 70 lbs of weight and less junk in the engine compartment. Once you remove the condenser in front of the radiator, you might even notice your car keep cool

The hood weighs 47 lbs. You can replace it with a fiberglass hood for $500 os less and get it down to 12 lbs. This really helps for working under the hood too!

Each seat weighs approx. 30 to 35 lbs. Replacement of both with racing style can make a significant difference.

When removing weight take note where you are removing it from. The 924 has nearly a 50/50 balance. Try and remove the same amount all around the car for better balance.

Different brands of brake fluid can be lighter than others. You may be able to save several pounds.

Replacement of the windows with lightweight fiberglass quarter windows and hatch.

Add European Front and rear bumpers to drop weight. This is good style of bumper and makes the car more attractive.
You can also modify euro bumpers to save additional weight.

Page 1: Pictures of my car
Page 2: Summary of my car, 924 vs 944, 924 vs 924S, model info, VIN # help and links
Page 3: Misc. pictures
Page 4: Jacking/jackstands/lifting tips
Page 5: Maintenance intervals and Troubleshooting
Page 6: Porsche Price List
Page 7: A ton of info, used Porsche buyer questions, power to weight ratio, weight reduction {to increase your horse power ratio}