Page 1: Pictures of my car
Page 2: Summary of my car, 924 vs 944, 924 vs 924S, model info, VIN # help and links
Page 3: Misc. pictures
Page 4: Jacking/jackstands/lifting tips
Page 5: Maintenance intervals and Troubleshooting
Page 6: Porsche Price List
Page 7: A ton of info, used Porsche buyer questions, power to weight ratio, weight reduction {to increase your horse power ratio}
Maintenance Intervals {If followed, you should have no surprises at all.}
The information that follows is for 924/924S/931 and 944's. I have a '77 924 N/A so if you car has additional components, check with your Haynes manuals for further instruction.
Weekly or whenever you refuel:
1 Check the tire pressure. Do this when the tires are cold as heat is generated by running the vehicle and false pressure readings are given. Also inspect them for unusual or uneven wear patterns.
2 Check the engine oil level. The vehicle must be parked on level ground and must be turned off for at least five minutes before checking. If the oil level is below the 'min' mark on the dipstick (after removing the dipstick, wiping it off, reinserting it all the way into the hole and removing it for a reading) a quart of oil must be added immediately. See the proper oil specification listed under Recommended lubricants and fluids.
3 Check the engine coolant level. The coolant must be within the 'max' and 'min' lines on the translucent expansion tank. If the level is below the 'min' mark, fill the coolant system with a mixture of ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and water, mixed to the proportions, proper for your climate. Do not remove the pressure cap on the expansion tank until you have read all mixing and warning instructions.
4 Check the tension of all engine drive belts.
5 Check the hydraulic fluid levels in the brake fluid reservoir (all 924S's) and the hydraulic clutch reservoir (Turbo). Fill with the proper fluid as required.
6 Check the electrolyte level in the battery.
7 Check the fluid level in the windshield washer reservoir.
Now if that seems like too much work, sell you car. What's listed above is very basic.
Change the engine oil as often as you can. At least every 5,000 miles/8,000 kms {I change mine twice a year and only put 1,500 kms on the car.} Also change it just before inter storage and just after taking it out of storage.
Required every 15,000 miles/24,000 km:
1 Change the engine oil.
2 Replace the engine oil filter.
3 Check and adjust valve clearances and replace the valve cover gasket.
4 Inspect the coolant system. Check coolant level and coolant hoses for tightness and condition.
5 Check all V-belts for condition and adjust them as necessary.
6 Replace the spark plugs.
7 Check the timing of the ignition and adjust the timing with the proper electronic equipment.
8 Make a visual inspection of the ignition wires, the distributor cap, and the ignition rotor and replace components as necessary.
9 Replace the fuel filter.
10 Make a visual check of the fuel tank, fuel lines, connections, and components of the EEC system.
11 Make a visual inspection of the exhaust system for signs of damage and rusting.
12 Check and adjust the engine idle and the CO level in the exhaust gasses.
13 Replace the air cleaner filter element (replace every two years if you drive less than 15,000 miles (24,000 km) every two years).
Required every 30,000 miles (48,000 km). Perform all 15,000 miles (24,000 km) tasks along with the tasks below:
1 Check the tightness of the cylinder head bolts.
2 Make a visual inspection of the crankcase ventilation hoses.
3 Visually inspect and perform the required checks on the air pump, control valves, air hoses, and manifolds on models with this equipment.
4 Replace the filter element for the air pump.
5 Check the play of the bearings in the front wheels and adjust as necessary.
6 Adjust the free play of the clutch and brake pedals.
7 Check the operation of the lights, horn, windshield wipers and the windshield washer.
8 Check the adjustment of your headlights
9 Make a visual inspection of the weatherstripping around the doors, the rear hatch, and the sunroof (where installed). Remove all rubber residue from contact surfaces and lightly coat the seal surfaces with talcum power or a rubber lubricant. Replace any weatherstripping which is cracked or torn
10 Inspect the front suspension and steering gear for tightness, leaks in the hydraulic suspension units, crack and tears in the rubber boots, and tightness of the tie-rod connections. Make adjustments and tighten bolts as necessary. Replace the rubber boots as necessary
11 Make a visual inspection of the braking system, including the brake pads for wear, the brake lines and hoses for leaks, and all connections for tightness. Correct problems as necessary
TROUBLESHOOTING
Engine:
1>>> Engine will not turn over or turns slowly
1 Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position and switch on some of the electrical components such as lights, windshield wipers, and the radio. If these fail to function, the most probable cause is a defective or discharged battery. Check the condition of the battery and make sure the terminals are in contact and are clean.
2 If the headlights work normally, turn the ignition key to the "START" position with the headlights switched on. If the lights and the instrument panel lights dim, this indicates that the battery is in a discharged state or that the connections are poor.
3 If the headlights stay bright and the instrument panel lights don't dim when the ignition key is turned, this suggests a fault in the wiring between the ignition switch and the starter motor. Check the ignition wiring diagram which is appropriate to your model. You may test the ignition switch by running a short wire between the power in and power out terminals of the switch. If this causes the engine to start, the ignition switch is faulty.
4 If the ignition switch is not at fault, check the starter solenoid and the starter motor. If your vehicle has an automatic transmission, lift up the plate which surrounds the selector lever and make sure that the contact points on the switch contact are properly aligned and do not have dirt or other obstructions in the way.
2>>> Engine turns over but will not start
1 Once you have eliminated lack of fuel and crossed wires as a possible cause, perform the troubleshooting drill which follows Chapter 5. This will eliminate the ignition as the problem if all the tests are carried out and the engine still fails to start.
2 Perform a check of the injectors. This will eliminate the fuel pump and injectors as a source of the problem.
3 Review Chapter 3 and test each of the components of the fuel starting system. Begin with the first component in the flow chart description and work through the components one at a time from the intake through ignition. Be logical and systematic.
3>>> Engine difficult to start when cold (outside temperature)
1 Check the output of the injectors (Chapter 3). If you can hear the pump operating but do not get good flow, the possible faults are dependent upon outside temperatures. If it is below freezing, the most common fault is ice in the fuel lines. Move the car to a garage and warm the car above freezing and attempt to start it again after an hour or so. Use a fuel system antifreeze additive to prevent further icing.
2 If the outside temperature is above freezing and the engine is difficult to start, see the steps below.
4>>> Engine difficult to start - cold engine
1 Once you have eliminated lack of fuel and lack of spark as problems, check the operation of the thermo time switch.
2 If the thermo time switch checks out, check the output of the cold start valve (Chapter 3).
3 If the cold start valve checks out, examine the auxiliary air regu- lator's performance (Chapter 3).
4 Check your ignition timing.
5>>> Engine difficult to start - hot engine
1 One you have eliminated lack of fuel and lack of spark as the cause of the problem, follow the elimination steps in the above cold start problem-solving to determine whether these components are working when they shouldn't be.
2 Check the output of the injectors (Chapter 3).
3 If your vehicle is a 1979 model, check the operation of the hot start solenoid (Chapter 3).
4 Check the idle adjustment and make any necessary adjustments (Chapter 3).
5 Check your ignition timing (Chapter 5).
6 Check engine compression (Chapter 1).
6>>> Poor performance during warm-up
1 Carefully check every join in the components of the fuel system for air leaks.
2 Check the performance of the cold start system components to ensure that they shut off or close at the proper time.
3 Check the continuity of ignition wires and components when cold and again at engine operating temperatures (Chapter 5).
4 Check the output of the injectors (Chapter 3).
7>>> Engine Idles erratically and stalls
1 Check all components of the fuel system for air leaks (Chapter 3).
2 Check the output of the injectors (Chapter 3).
3 Check for water in the fuel. Drain about one quart of gasoline into a clear glass jar from the fuel line between the fuel tank and damper. Water will appear as a clear layer beneath the gasoline in the jar. If water is found, drain the fuel tank and fill it with fresh fuel from a reputable dealer.
4 Examine the wires of the ignition system for tight connection and the spark plugs for cleanliness and proper gap (Chapter 5).
5 Check the operation of the EGR valve (Chapter 3).
6 If none of the above steps solves the problem, perform a com- pression check on the engine (Chapter 1).
8>>> Lack of power, poor acceleration
1 Check the air cleaner filter to see if it is plugged or in need of replacement.
2 Check the condition of the spark plugs and check also the injec- tors. Be especially watchful for injector spray patterns and smooth operation of the sensor plate and operating lever (Chapter 3).
4 Examine the positive crankcase ventilation system and the eva- porative emission control components for blockages, cuts or crush- ing of the hoses, and proper operation of the various components.
5 If your vehicle is equipped with an air pump, check the operation of the entire air injection system and the operation of the EGR valve (Chapter 3).
6 On cars with manual transmissions, check for clutch slip. Start the engine and select the highest forward gear. Engage the clutch while firmly holding down on the brake pedal at the same time. If the engine continues to run without stalling, the clutch is slipping.
7 On cars which have automatic transmissions, make a check of performance using the troubleshooting chart for automatic trans- missions found in Chapter 7.
8 Check the ignition timing (Chapter 5).
9 Check the compression of the engine (Chapter 1).
9>>> Erratic performance during cruising
1 Check the operation of the fuel pump and the injectors. Use the tests in Chapter 3 to determine whether the fuel pump. accumula- tor, fuel filter, fuel distributor, or injectors may be at fault.
2 Remove the spark plugs and check their condition and gap. The color chart in Chapter 5 will help you to 'read' the type of charge being burned in the cylinders.
3 Check the cold starting system, particularly the cold start valve to see that it is shutting completely off and not operating at all under normal running conditions.
4 Check the vacuum line to the distributor for tight fit and lack of pinching or cuts in the tubing. Perform a test on a distributor test bench (Chapter 5) to determine whether the distributor is advanc- ing properly. Check the operation of the vacuum amplifier.
5 Make sure that the air cleaner element is operating properly, is free of plugging, and is properly installed.
10>>> Car surges while decelerating
1 In cars which have manual transmissions and emission controls installed, check the operation of the decel valve.
2 Check the operation of the EGR valve.
3 On vehicles with automatic transmissions, check the throttle control cable on the transmission,
11>>> Poor engine braking
1 Check the throttle housing and its components for proper operation.
2 Check the operation of the decel valve, if your car has a manual transmission and emission controls installed (Chapter 3).
12 Overheating
1 Check the coolant level in the expansion tank. If the level is not between the upper and lower lines cast into the sides of the translu- cent tank, prepare a mixture of antifreeze according to the mixing directions in Chapter 2. Do no remove the coolant system pressure cap from the top of the expansion tank until you have reviewed the instructions and warnings in Chapter 2.
2 If the system is losing coolant on a regular basis, carefully inspect all hoses and connections for hose condition and loose or overtightened hoses. See Chapter 2 for the proper check pro- cedures.
3 Check the operation of the electric fan and the thermo switch (Chapter 2).
4 If the engine overheats rapidly, but the lower section of the radiator remains cool, remove and perform the appropriate tests on the thermostats (Chapter 2).
5 Check the spark plugs for evidence of a very lean air/fuel mixture.
6 Check the ignition timing (Chapter 5).
7 If the engine continues to run hot after all of the above tests and checks, drain the coolant system and flush it with a proprietary cleaner. Make sure that the cleaner is suitable for use in alloy engines before using. If calcium deposits or rust and scale are a problem, use distilled water in place of tap water.
13 Coolant too cool
1 Perform an operational check of the thermostat (Chapter 2). Electrical
14 Battery discharges rapidly
1 Check the alternator drive belt for proper adjustment and condi- tion. Adjust or replace as necessary (Chapter 5).
2 Check the electrolyte level in the battery and top up with dis- tilled water if necessary.
3 Check the lighting circuits for shorting or grounding out (Chap- ter 11).
4 Check the output of the voltage regulator (Chapter 5).
5 Have a competent service center check the alternator output.
15 Wiper motor fails to work
1 Check the operation of the proper fuse and relay and replace as necessary (Chapter 11).
2 Check all connections for tight fit and evidence of any frayed or broken wires.
3 Have a competent service center check the operation of the motor and replace if necessary.
16 Wiper motor works very slowly and draws excess current
1 Check the motor for dirt and grit around the shaft and clean it as necessary (Chapter 11),
2 Check the drive linkage for binding, bent parts, or lack of proper lubrication at the pivot points.
3 Examine the motor for binding, worn bearings, or other signs of abuse or wear. Have a competent service center check the motor and replace as necessary.
17 Wiper motor works slowly but draws little current
1 Have the motor checked out by a competent service center.
16 Wiper motor works but blades remain static
1 Check the linkage and replace if faulty or damaged (Chapter. 11).
2 Check the wiper arm holding nuts for tightness and the splined drive pivots for damage or stripping out.
19 Headlights do not come on
1 Check the headlight sealed beam units for burning or broken filaments.
2 Check the headlight relay (Chapter 11).
3 Check the operation of the headlight switch.
4 Check the wiring for breaks and bad connections.
20 Headlights come on but fade (engine stopped)
1 Recharge the battery and perform checks on the battery charge if the problem persists (Section 14).
21 Headlights give poor Illumination
1 Make sure the lenses are clean.
2 Examine the reflectors for dirt and corrosion, replacing any units which show those signs.
3 Check the adjustment of the headlights and make any necessary corrections (Chapter 11).
4 If the headlight lens is old and the unit has discolored, replace the unit (Chapter 11).
5 Check all electrical connectors for clean, tight fitting.
22 Lights flash on and off, especially over bumps
1 Examine all wiring and connectors for loose connections or breaks. Make sure that the system grounds are properly installed (Chapter 11).
23 Headlights do not raise when they are turned on
1 Check the linkage for binding and lack of lubrication (Chapter 12)
2 Check the operation of the motor.
3 Check the operation of the fuse and relay for the motor.
24 Horn does not work
1 Check the fuse and horn relay (Chapter 11).
2 Remove the pad in the center of the steering wheel and examine the horn switch for tight connections and good contact between the two plates of the horn button (Chapter 11).
3 Have the horn tested and adjusted by a competent service center.
25 Horn does not shut off
1 Remove the pad on the steering wheel and separate the two leads from the horn button (Chapter 11).
2 Check the horn relay for condition and operation.
26 Poor tone in the horn
1 Check all horn wiring for loose connections (Chapter 11).
2 Disconnect each horn in turn to determine which horn is bad. Replace that horn.
27 Fuel level gauge reads 'maximum' continuously
1 Remove the fuel tank sending unit and test (Chapter 3).
2 Remove the gauge and test.
3 Check all wiring for defects.
26 Fuel level gauge gives no reading
1 Check all wiring in this system for proper connectors and proper grounding (Chapter 11).
29 No reading on tachometer
1 Have the tachometer and transistorized ignition control unit tested by a qualified mechanic.
30 Tachometer reading inaccurate or wildly fluctuating
1 Have the tachometer and transistorized ignition control unit tested by a qualified mechanic.
Clutch
31 Clutch judders when engaged
1 Check the condition of the bonded mounts for the engine, drive- line tube, and the transmission (Chapters 1 and 7). Tighten or replace mounts as necessary. On 1978 and later models, check the condition of the engine shock absorber beneath the engine.
2 Examine the clutch lining for thickness. If there is useable lining material shown, remove the clutch disc and pressure plate and inspect these components according to the instructions in Chapter 6. Correct any oil leaks which might be causing problems and replace clutch components as necessary,
3 With the clutch disc and pressure plate removed, check the con- dition of the pilot bearing in the center of the flywheel and correct any problem as necessary.
4 Inspect the drive shaft and drive shaft dampers for proper instal- lation and condition.
32 Clutch drags or does not allow gears to engage
1 Check the adjustment of the clutch cable (standard models) and make any necessary corrections (Chapter 6),
2 If the car has sat idle for some time, the clutch friction plate may be seized on the splined shaft. This is the result of a small amount of rust or corrosion holding the plate on the shaft. It is not a major problem and will go away with increased use of the car. To free the clutch disc from the shaft, engage the transmission in top gear, engage the parking brake and depress the clutch pedal. Engage the starter and allow the engine to turn over. If the clutch disc is badly seized, the engine will not turn. This solution is a temporary mea- sure and the clutch disc and pressure plate should be removed and inspected (Chapter 6), as well as inspecting the splined shaft and cleaning the splines with a wire brush.
3 If the above solution does not free the clutch disc, it will be necessary to remove the clutch disc and pressure plate. Inspect all parts carefully and replace parts as necessary.
33 Clutch slips
1 Check the adjustment of the clutch operating cable and make any corrective adjustments required (Chapter 6).
2 Inspect the clutch disc friction lining thickness (Chapter 6).
3 Remove the clutch disc and pressure plate and look for signs of oil leaks, hard spots, and other evidence of abuse or wear (Chapter 6).
Manual transmission
34 Transmission balks on downshifts, gear shifts slow
1 Synchromesh bodies are worn or do not have proper clearances after reassembly. The transmission will have to be stripped down and repaired (Chapter 7).
35 Gears jump out of mesh
1 The shift forks are worn or out of adjustment; the grooves in the selector rod are worn; or there is excessive end float at the end of the gear shafts. In any case, the transmission must be stripped down and inspected for the appropriate repairs to be made (Chap- ter 7).
36 Excessive transmission noise
1 Check the oil level and top up as required.
2 If the noise persists, the cause is most likely worn parts in the transmission. Strip the transmission and inspect all parts for the appropriate repairs to be made (Chapter 7).
37 Difficulty in engaging gears
1 Check the adjustment of the clutch (Chapter 6).
2 Check the adjustment of the shift linkage. Inspect all pivoting and rubbing components for binding and bending.
3 If the above adjustments do not solve the problem, the correc- tion to this matter lies in the condition of internal transmission parts. Strip the transmission and inspect all parts for the approp- riate repairs to be made (Chapter 7).
Automatic transmission
38 No drive
1 In all gears: ATF level too low (Chapter 7).
39 Erratic drive performance
1 In all forward gears: ATF level too low (Chapter 7).
40 Erratic shifts when engaging D or R from N
1 Idle speed set too high (Chapter 3).
2 ATF level too low (Chapter 7).
41 Upshift too long from 1 to 2
1 ATF level too low (Chapter 7).
42 Upshift too long from 2 to 3
1 ATF level too low (Chapter 7).
43 Kickdown malfunctions
1 Control pressure cable out of adjustment (Chapter 7).
44 Poor acceleration
1 Ignition, fuel supply, or compression problems (Chapters 1, 3, 5).
2 Throttle cable out of adjustment (Chapter 3).
3 Control pressure cable out of adjustment (Chapter 7).
45 Top speed cannot be reached
1 Ignition, fuel supply, or compression problems (Chapters 1, 3, 5).
2 Throttle cable out of adjustment (Chapter 3).
3 Control pressure out of adjustment (Chapter 7.)
Final drive components (except transmission)
46 Excessive vibration
1 Check all of the mounts of the engine, drive shaft housing, and transmission for tightness. Make any necessary corrections (Chap- ters 1 and 7).
2 Remove the drive shaft and have it checked for balance and distortion (Chapter 7). This requires a dynamic balance test.
3 Examine the rear wheel bearings and the axle shafts for tight- ness and alignment (Chapter 10).
47 Knock or 'clunk' when taking up drive or changing gear
1 Check the mounts of the engine, drive shaft housing, and trans- mission for tightness (Chapters 1 and 7). Make any necessary corrections.
2 Check the tightness of the gears in the planetary gear set in the final drive (Chapter 7).
3 Twist the axle shafts back and forth to check for wear in the axle shaft splines.
48 Rear axle noisy on turns 1 Check the planetary gearbox for wear (Chapter 7).
49 Rear axle nolsy under all conditions
1 Check the ring and pinion gears for proper adjustment and the planetary gear set in the differential for wear. This will require re- moving and stripping the transmission (Chapter 7).
Brakes
50 Brake pedal travels almost to the floor before the brakes operate
1 Check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir and top up as required (Chapter 9).
2 Check the brake pads (front) and the brake linings (rear) for wear and replace if necessary (Chapter 9).
3 Make a visual inspection of the brake linings and hoses for frac- tures or leaks. Tighten connections to proper torque specifications or replace damaged parts as required.
4 Check the operation of the master cylinder and the brake boost- er and replace or rebuild parts as required (Chapter 9).
51 Brake pedal feels springy
1 New brake pads not yet bedded in.
2 Scored or unevenly worn brake drums and discs may also be a cause. Inspect the drums and discs according to the instructions in Chapter 9 and have the drums and discs skimmed or replaced according to the results of the inspection.
3 Examine the mounting of the master cylinder for looseness and tighten the nuts as required (Chapter 9).
4 Check the clearance on the booster rod to master cylinder pis- ton rod connection. Adjust as necessary (Chapter 9). Make sure that the brake booster and master cylinder are manufactured by the same company, or they will not be compatible.
52 Brake pedal feels spongy and soggy
1 Bleed the system to remove any possible air in the hydraulic lines. If the brake fluid is over two years old, drain the entire braking system and fill it with new hydraulic fluid from a previously- unopened can (Chapter 9).
2 Examine the calipers, fittings, lines and hoses of the braking system for leakage, loose connections, broken or punctured hoses, or worn seals. Replace parts and rebuild calipers as necessary. Remember to rebuild front brake calipers and/or wheel cylinders as a set on an axle (all front or rear at once) (Chapter 9).
3 Check for leaks in the master cylinder by looking for air bubbles in the brake fluid reservoir. Rebuild the master cylinder as neces- sary (Chapter 9).
53 Excessive brake pedal pressure is required to slow car
1 Check the brake pads and brake shoe linings for glazing. This problem is usually caused by improper breaking-in or repeated hard stops. The glaze can usually be broken by sanding the surface slightly with fine sandpaper. Do not breathe the dust from this procedure,
2 Check the brake booster unit. including the vacuum lines and the check valve for proper operation (Chapter 9).
3 If neither of these checks provides a solution, the problem may be one of the material on new brake pads being of a harder material than the old ones; contamination of the friction surfaces by grease, oil or brake fluid; or pads in need of replacement.
54 Brakes pulling to one side
1 This is an unusual problem with the 924, as the negative scrub radius characteristics of the suspension and the diagonal braking circuits should prevent such an occurrence. The first check, there- fore, is to make sure that the brake lines and hoses are not broken, plugged, or leaking.
2 If the problem persists, have the alignment of the car checked by a competent service facility.
55 Brakes bind, drag, or lock
1 Check the adjustment of the rear brake shoes and slacken the adjusting nuts if necessary (Chapter 9).
2 Check the adjustment of the handbrake (Chapter 9).
3 Examine the master cylinder and brake booster for incorrect operation. Make sure that the check valve in the brake booster vacuum line is installed in the proper direction (Chapter 9),
Steering and suspension
56 Steering vague, car wanders and floats' at speed
1 Check tire pressures.
2 Check the operation of the shock absorbers (Chapter 10).
3 Check the play in the ball joints (Chapter 10).
4 Have the suspension geometry checked and aligned if neces- sary.
5 Make sure that the tires on your car are not mixed between radial and crossply construction. All tires must be of the same con- struction and of equal rolling radius.
57 Steering heavy and stiff
1 Check tire pressures.
2 Check the adjustment of the steering gear tension adjusting bolt on the pinion cover plate. Adjust as required (Chapter 8).
3 Have the toe-in of the front suspension checked and adjusted by a competent service facility.
58 Wheel wobble and vibration
1 Check the wheels for bent rims, and the tires to make sure they have no bulges or other obvious out-of-round conditions.
2 Check that the wheel nuts are correctly tightened in a cross pattern and torqued to the proper setting (Specifications, Chapter 9).
3 Check the balance of the wheels. This can be done quickly by a tire store or similar shop.
4 Check the free play in the ball joints (Chapter 10).
5 Check the front wheel bearing's adjustment (Chapter 10).
59 General suspension and steering rattle
1 Check all steering gear mounting bolts for tightness (Chapter 8).
2 Check all bushings in the front suspension for wear and separa- tion of the metal pieces from the rubber bushes (Chapter 10).
3 Check the adjustment of the steering gear tension adjusting bolt on the pinion cover plate. Adjust as required (Chapter 8).
4 Check that the two steering column bearings are not worn out, by grasping the center of the steering column beneath the dash- board and trying to shake the steering column up and down.
5 Examine all suspension mounts for wear in the bushings or loose fittings (Chapter 10}.
Page 1: Pictures of my car
Page 2: Summary of my car, 924 vs 944, 924 vs 924S, model info, VIN # help and links
Page 3: Misc. pictures
Page 4: Jacking/jackstands/lifting tips
Page 5: Maintenance intervals and Troubleshooting
Page 6: Porsche Price List
Page 7: A ton of info, used Porsche buyer questions, power to weight ratio, weight reduction {to increase your horse power ratio}
