ChrisGregg’s 2003 Nissan Maxima

Page 1: Exterior   Page 2: Interior and Stereo   Page 3: Engine   Page 4: Modification History Interior and Stereo:Again, not looking to do a lot of modifications as I've already got one car which is enough of a focus in terms of modding!I've installed a set of all-wheather floor matts out of a 2001 Infiniti I30, so they are a perfect fit!

Page 1: Exterior   Page 2: Interior & Stereo   Page 3: Engine   Page 4: Modification History Engine:Once more, relatively stock engine with automatic transmission. Upgrades include VIAS delete utilizing NWP Block-off Plate. Also installed NWP phenolic Intake Spacer Kit. Both have added nice horsepower to an already meaty engine! Currently, big power adder is going to come in the form of Cattman Headers, Y-pipe, and Fastcat (primary cat replacement). I have completed wrapping them with black header wrap. I have also utilized some black DEI silicone spray. This both seals the wrap and protects the welds and flanges of the exhaust components. Notice for the image on the right, the area around the flex section looks gray. You must heat the DEI up to at least 400 degrees to finish it. Once the coating has dried, it is initially the gray you see. After heating (used a heat gun), then it immediately turned the gloss black you see!

More info and pics to come soon...Long time member of www.Maxima.orgPage 1: Exterior   Page 2: Interior & Stereo   Page 3: Engine   Page 4: Modification History Current Modifications: Two degree (17*) timing advance, velocity stacked ("Bellmouth") intake with stock helmholtz, Cattman headers (header wrapped and sealed with DEI high temp) and y-pipe, fastcat (metalic cat-converter), 3" Cattman catback exhaust system, Eibach lowering springs, Stillen rear anti-sway bar, custom grill, HID upgrade to driving lights, independant driving light modification (driving lights can be turned on with parking lights), headlight eyebrows, 18" 350z 6-spoke wheels, Stillen front lip, Sony CD/USB head unit, Infinity door speakers, Kicker 8" sub w/custom enclosure powered by Kicker 250 amp, Infinity all weather floor matts, I've re-wired the dome light to turn on the front map lights both when the switch is turned "on" and when the doors open, relocated vacuum tubes on intake to beneath the engine cover (cosmetic), rotated battery 90 degrees and added a custom aluminum "Maxima" battery tie-down, VIAS delete with installation of NWP block plate, installation of NWP intake Phenolic spacers (extended intake length and significant drop in intake tempurature), and Transgo HD2 shift kit. Repairs Since Purchase: Both rear brake calipers, both front rotors (slotted only), new MAF, front motor mount, engine torque mount, transmission torque mount, Fuel filter (in tank), PCV valve, new KYB GR2 struts, installation of missing engine/transmission splash guards, gas cap, spark plugs (NGK Platinums), replaced missing rear child restraint caps, replaced missing 12v power port dead plug with one from a 2008 Mustang, replaced missing keyless entry/trunk remote, installed Bose rear deck cover for sub installation, sound deadened trunk, installed stock 5.5gen mudflaps and painted Dark Gray to match side skirts and Stillen front lip spoiler. Parts purchased and awaiting installation: replace rear valve cover, brakes, and turn rotors, Nissan recall on crank position and cam position sensors, replaced rear valve cover with 6th gen version.  Updates: Please see p4 for previous updates!I like to provide updates on the front page, making it easier for viewers to notice and follow any changes with modifications and such.6/06/12 - I have rotated my battery 90 degrees, sitting it closer to the engine and opening up a lot of room behind the driver's headlight. Also added a custom "Maxima" aluminum battery tie-down. Just purchased new AEM dry intake cone filter to replace the oiled Stillen (K&N) I've been running. I've purchased a 3" 45 degree coupler which will angle the filter toward the front of the car. Also will be replacing the MAF sensor, likely starting to act up because the K&N. I've also installed Stillen rear sway bar. Most significant, I've recently installed my 3" Cattman catback with new exhaust isolators. Cosmetically, I've installed engine dress up bolt kit. These come with polished flat head allen bolts and blue (or whatever color) washers which sit beneath them. Please see image on p3. I've also used these to pull up my sagging front bumper! Also, I've re-wired the map/dome lights to come on together. Essentually, the dome light will turn on the map lights when switched "on" and when the doors are opened. Subsequently illuminating the entire car!1/09/12 - Just recently finished up a few projects on the Maxima. Of some significance, I replaced the engine and transmission torque mounts. I had my stock rubber pressed out and installed a set of Wrayth poly-inserts. These can be purchased from Knight off Maxima.org. I ran into some difficulty with the automatic transmission frame bracket. So, even though I got it installed, it is too tight due to the stock bracket. Fantasitic peices and very much worth it! Install has resulted in significant vibration and increased engine noise within the cabin. So, I am going to remove the transmission Wrayth inserts and install a stock mount back. The Wrayth insert for the engine mount will stay and should be close to what NWP's engine torque link does for these engines...helping to put the power to the ground! I also replaced both rear brake calipers and installed new brake pads. The passenger side caliper was sticking, sucking fuel economy and wearing out my pads and rotor. The driver's side was getting tough to turn in when doing brakes....so just replaced them both! 12/16/11 - Working this weekend to finish up the Maxima. Radiator blew, typical issue for these cars! Bought a new Koyo from Maxima.org forums for $105 shipped. Since had to remove radiator and drain coolant, decided to go ahead and install my Cattman Headers and y-pipe and fastcat. Had already wrapped the headers and used DEI silicon spray to paint the rest of the unwrapped exhaust. Rear exhaust manifold is a booger!! In for a penny, in for a pound they say. I decided to go ahead and replace my rear passenger caliper that has been seizing up on me and go ahead and replace the rear brake pads again since they've worn prematurily. Got the caliper at Autozone, best price and there's a warrenty. Of course got Nissan pads. Going to go ahead and replace my drive belts with oem replacements. Also, I've noticed a slight oul leak. Thought was lower oil pan, looks now like it is the oil cooler where the oil filter bolts up. So, going ahead since drained coolant and oil to take advantage of the opportunity and replace the o-rings at the cooler with oem replacements since I'm under there. Also, learned my front electronic motor mount is shot, again, no surpise. So, ordered a front mount for a manual car since it is NOT electronic; got it for $30 shipped. Since I've had to drop my cross member anyway, this is the best time to replace that mount. I'm still waiting for Knight off Maxima.org to ship out the torque mounts he has designed, which stiffen up movement and will act much like NWP's torque link. Looking forward to having a new 2.5" exhaust after tax return!11/19/11 - I have recently installed my winter tires on an old set of 17" KMC "Suicides" I used to run on my '89 Maxima. Still look great and should help fuel economy a little given they weigh in right at 1 lb per inch....so each rim is 17 lbs. Also I h ave been able to get everything together for installing the Cattman parts. Purchased some header wrap off ebay (two 25 ft roles with straps for less than $40 shipped). Also bought some DEI silicone exhaust wrap and header spray. This is used to "seal" the wrap from moisture and oil, keeping it looking good and preventing elements from being absorbed and held to the pipes. Although I didn't want to paint the headers or y-pipe, I felt in order to best protect the welds and flanges, painted would be a good idea. I have no information to say the DEI helps hold in heat from the piping. If anyone has any experience or info about that aspect, please post. Right now, it simply looks great!Exterior:This is now my daily driver. A 2003 Maxima SE automatic, silver. Purchased in Knoxville, TN for $6k plus tax. Most reasonable price I found! Has some typical small dents and scratches for the year and age. I had to "defog" the headlights with a 3M kit...did a fantastic job! Used an off brand hand lens kit on the rear tails to eliminate some minor scuffs and scratches. I've also posted some images of the 18" 350z rims which will be run on the car in the summer. Stock 17" rims to be run in the winter.

As you may have noticed, I have also installed a new head unit. The old non-Bose unit had a faulty CD player and the FM tuner was crap. So, I installed this new Sony unit. I've always owned Clarion and Alpine decks. First time I've every owned a Sony deck, pretty nice! Has auxilary inputs for MP3 player as well as a front USB port for jump drive or other media. Of course, I suppose many units come standard with these features now?

Following the Cattman headers, Y, and Fastcat, I've installed my Cattman 3" catback exhaust. This thing is mean. Yes, louder than stock, but nice growl at idle, and really VERY quiet for what you would expect. Nothing unpleasant or obnoxious about the volume. I've been able to have conversations at the same level inside the car and listen to the radio at the same volume as with my stock exhaust! Power is definately there (per the butt dyno)! This system DOES have confirmed gains by independant consumers who have tested their car. I've also painted it with the DEI silicone spray.

After the original purchase of the Maxima, I obtained a Bra for it. The bra set has since been removed following installation of the Stillen front lip. Here are images of painted eyebrows and installation of my Stillen front Grnd Fx. I also installed front and rear mud flaps to protect the car from the wider 350z wheels. Additionally, I painted all peices: Front Fx, stock side Fx, and all four mudflaps a medium/storm gray. I have also painted the stock grille; blacked it out while maintaining the chrome emblem. I originally painted the whole emblem black, but decided it was too much and looked cheap....well, actually it looked like crap. So, I scraped the black off the chrome and viola!

I also upgraded all four of the stock clarion speakers, which were pretty much shot. These Infinity Reference speakers have great sound and able to handle some decent power should I install an amp. Although I was looking for just the speaker, I settled with these components. I love treble and these speakers have a function either to leave the tweet set low, or to increase the tweet/treble at the speaker by 3 db. I left the front speakers set to 0 but turned the tweets to 3 at the rear to try and get a more balanced sound given I kept the stock tweets in the A-pillars connected.

Below are some images of the modification I've made (as recommended through Maxima.org) for a simple way to help minimize the clutter under the hood. The little control valve was attached to the side fo the intake, near the throttle body...very exposed. Now, it has been moved to beneath the engine cover, out of site. The first two images are of the moved control valve (left, with current SRI) and then where it was located on the intake originally (right, with old Injen CAI). I've also added photos of my engine bolt dress-up kit. I've added these new bolts to my headlights, engine cover, bumper (above grill), coolant overflow tank, and power steering resorvior.

More info and pics to come soon...Long time member of www.Maxima.orgPage 1: Exterior   Page 2: Interior & Stereo   Page 3: Engine   Page 4: Modification History Current Modifications: Two degree (17*) timing advance, velocity stacked ("Bellmouth") intake with stock helmholtz, Cattman headers (header wrapped and sealed with DEI high temp) and y-pipe, fastcat (metalic cat-converter), 3" Cattman catback exhaust system, Eibach lowering springs, Stillen rear anti-sway bar, custom grill, HID upgrade to driving lights, independant driving light modification (driving lights can be turned on with parking lights), headlight eyebrows, 18" 350z 6-spoke wheels, Stillen front lip, Sony CD/USB head unit, Infinity door speakers, Kicker 8" sub w/custom enclosure powered by Kicker 250 amp, Infinity all weather floor matts, I've re-wired the dome light to turn on the front map lights both when the switch is turned "on" and when the doors open, relocated vacuum tubes on intake to beneath the engine cover (cosmetic), rotated battery 90 degrees and added a custom aluminum "Maxima" battery tie-down, VIAS delete with installation of NWP block plate, installation of NWP intake Phenolic spacers (extended intake length and significant drop in intake tempurature), and Transgo HD2 shift kit. Repairs Since Purchase: Both rear brake calipers, both front rotors (slotted only), new MAF, front motor mount, engine torque mount, transmission torque mount, Fuel filter (in tank), PCV valve, new KYB GR2 struts, installation of missing engine/transmission splash guards, gas cap, spark plugs (NGK Platinums), replaced missing rear child restraint caps, replaced missing 12v power port dead plug with one from a 2008 Mustang, replaced missing keyless entry/trunk remote, installed Bose rear deck cover for sub installation, sound deadened trunk, installed stock 5.5gen mudflaps and painted Dark Gray to match side skirts and Stillen front lip spoiler. Parts purchased and awaiting installation: replace rear valve cover, brakes, and turn rotors, Nissan recall on crank position and cam position sensors, replaced rear valve cover with 6th gen version.  Updates: Please see p4 for previous updates!I like to provide updates on the front page, making it easier for viewers to notice and follow any changes with modifications and such.6/06/12 - I have rotated my battery 90 degrees, sitting it closer to the engine and opening up a lot of room behind the driver's headlight. Also added a custom "Maxima" aluminum battery tie-down. Just purchased new AEM dry intake cone filter to replace the oiled Stillen (K&N) I've been running. I've purchased a 3" 45 degree coupler which will angle the filter toward the front of the car. Also will be replacing the MAF sensor, likely starting to act up because the K&N. I've also installed Stillen rear sway bar. Most significant, I've recently installed my 3" Cattman catback with new exhaust isolators. Cosmetically, I've installed engine dress up bolt kit. These come with polished flat head allen bolts and blue (or whatever color) washers which sit beneath them. Please see image on p3. I've also used these to pull up my sagging front bumper! Also, I've re-wired the map/dome lights to come on together. Essentually, the dome light will turn on the map lights when switched "on" and when the doors are opened. Subsequently illuminating the entire car!1/09/12 - Just recently finished up a few projects on the Maxima. Of some significance, I replaced the engine and transmission torque mounts. I had my stock rubber pressed out and installed a set of Wrayth poly-inserts. These can be purchased from Knight off Maxima.org. I ran into some difficulty with the automatic transmission frame bracket. So, even though I got it installed, it is too tight due to the stock bracket. Fantasitic peices and very much worth it! Install has resulted in significant vibration and increased engine noise within the cabin. So, I am going to remove the transmission Wrayth inserts and install a stock mount back. The Wrayth insert for the engine mount will stay and should be close to what NWP's engine torque link does for these engines...helping to put the power to the ground! I also replaced both rear brake calipers and installed new brake pads. The passenger side caliper was sticking, sucking fuel economy and wearing out my pads and rotor. The driver's side was getting tough to turn in when doing brakes....so just replaced them both! 12/16/11 - Working this weekend to finish up the Maxima. Radiator blew, typical issue for these cars! Bought a new Koyo from Maxima.org forums for $105 shipped. Since had to remove radiator and drain coolant, decided to go ahead and install my Cattman Headers and y-pipe and fastcat. Had already wrapped the headers and used DEI silicon spray to paint the rest of the unwrapped exhaust. Rear exhaust manifold is a booger!! In for a penny, in for a pound they say. I decided to go ahead and replace my rear passenger caliper that has been seizing up on me and go ahead and replace the rear brake pads again since they've worn prematurily. Got the caliper at Autozone, best price and there's a warrenty. Of course got Nissan pads. Going to go ahead and replace my drive belts with oem replacements. Also, I've noticed a slight oul leak. Thought was lower oil pan, looks now like it is the oil cooler where the oil filter bolts up. So, going ahead since drained coolant and oil to take advantage of the opportunity and replace the o-rings at the cooler with oem replacements since I'm under there. Also, learned my front electronic motor mount is shot, again, no surpise. So, ordered a front mount for a manual car since it is NOT electronic; got it for $30 shipped. Since I've had to drop my cross member anyway, this is the best time to replace that mount. I'm still waiting for Knight off Maxima.org to ship out the torque mounts he has designed, which stiffen up movement and will act much like NWP's torque link. Looking forward to having a new 2.5" exhaust after tax return!11/19/11 - I have recently installed my winter tires on an old set of 17" KMC "Suicides" I used to run on my '89 Maxima. Still look great and should help fuel economy a little given they weigh in right at 1 lb per inch....so each rim is 17 lbs. Also I h ave been able to get everything together for installing the Cattman parts. Purchased some header wrap off ebay (two 25 ft roles with straps for less than $40 shipped). Also bought some DEI silicone exhaust wrap and header spray. This is used to "seal" the wrap from moisture and oil, keeping it looking good and preventing elements from being absorbed and held to the pipes. Although I didn't want to paint the headers or y-pipe, I felt in order to best protect the welds and flanges, painted would be a good idea. I have no information to say the DEI helps hold in heat from the piping. If anyone has any experience or info about that aspect, please post. Right now, it simply looks great!Exterior:This is now my daily driver. A 2003 Maxima SE automatic, silver. Purchased in Knoxville, TN for $6k plus tax. Most reasonable price I found! Has some typical small dents and scratches for the year and age. I had to "defog" the headlights with a 3M kit...did a fantastic job! Used an off brand hand lens kit on the rear tails to eliminate some minor scuffs and scratches. I've also posted some images of the 18" 350z rims which will be run on the car in the summer. Stock 17" rims to be run in the winter.

Although I have images of the sub, it is a Kicker CVR 8" sub. I had to replace the rear deck panel for one out of a Maxima which had the stock Bose unit. This allowed me to obtain the metal plate and sub-cover necessary to install a woofer in the foctory location. I then mounted a Kicker amp and 1 farad cap to the back of the driver's side rear seat. You should be able to see the amp and capacitor in the following images. Also of note, I have most recently experimented with how to get more controlled and crisp sound from the sub which functions in a "free-air" environment. The following images show the round = sealed enclosure I made. I used rubberized metal tape alont the point the enclosure attaches beneath the sub just to assist in sealing at that point as well as reducing any potential rattle. I call it my "Franken-bucket."

Here are the updated images of the modification to my grill. Lots more dimension built into the design than anything else you can buy (other than a complete aftermarket replacement front bumper.) I prefer the inset of the grill, giving the front greater dimenstion and depth. I think this is close to what the oem bumper/grill should have looked like. The images along the right column show essentially the same shot but with the driving light modification. With the driving light modification, where (when still swithed on at the interior switch) they will now come on with the parking lights as well as remain on with the headlights. Originally, the driving lights would only come on with the headlights.

I have installed a power port plug on the front console to cover the socket. I also purchased and installed new rear child safety seat restraint caps given I was missing a few of them for some reason. I am also considering replacing the shifter plate and door handles as the color has pigmented and become worn.

Below are some great comparison images of the car both before (left side) and after (right side) the Eibach (1.3 front/ 1.0 rear) drop, included the addition of the Stillen Front lip and matched painted sides in dark/storm gray. Depending on the way the light hits the car determines how dark the front lip, side skirts, and mudflaps look. I like the effect.

Here, I have installed my GPS. You can see where I ran the power cord up around the bottom of the dash, underneath the steering wheel, then up by the driver's door seal to the top of the dash and tucked behind the a-pillar. Not much more one can do to hide the wires unless you do a custom install/mount of the GPS. There is a guy on the Maxima forums who installed his GPS in place of the ashtray compartment. He did another GPS install where he fabricated it in place of the left vent above the stereo. Without going to that extreme, the only thing I can think of would be to drill a hole into the back of the open compartment below the stereo and feed the GPS power cord through it and behind the dash, over to the driver's a-pillar where I have my GPS currently mounted. That way, the GPS 12v power adaptor cord would come out from that open compartment and not be so intrusive. Additionally, when the GPS is not in use, this would allow me to push the wire into the compartment and place the power adaptive inside, tucked nicely away and illiminating any wires. I may try this, however, I'm not sure there is enough slack in the power cord to allow doing this.Here is my map/dome light rewire where the dome turns the map light on when set to "on" or when the doors open. Illuminates the interior much better than stock. This is how it should have been done from Nissan!