My 1997 Ford Explorer 5.0 AWD Eddie Bauer

My 470hp MKIV Supra Twin Turbo
My Daily Driver, a stock 2k1 Nissan Maxima SE 5spd
One of my previous cars, a 1991 Nissan SE-R "classic"

Update 6/01/03:
Finally finished the stereo install. I am very pleased with the results. My goal was to have a good SQ system that was somewhat stealthy and didn't take up much space. It needed to cost under $1,500 installed (utilizing new components). I also wanted something that could pound when needed. And I was going to do the entire install.

For the sake of stealthy-ness both amps are mounted in the rear 1/4 panel, the subwoofer is mounted in a custom .79 cu.ft. enclosure which is wrapped in vinyl and accoustically transparent carpet which match the color of the interior, the box is made to stradle the wheel well hump to conserve space.

For the components I am using Crystal Mobilesound CPe-60s front and rear. I ran these in two previous installs (with titanium tweeters instead of silk dome) and was very pleased considering what I was able to get them for. I am even more pleased with them in this install. For the install I decided to not use kick-panels for the sake of practicality (they are called KICK panels for a reason!). I also chose to not mount the tweeters low in the door near the main drivers, simply because it's annoying when you have a passenger in the car whoose knee blocks the tweeter. The rear components were mounted in the back panels behind the rear seat so that they would not degrade the front stage too much, and the rear passengers could listen to more than just the subwoofer.

I love the Alpine CDA-9813. With it's built in digital time correction, 1/3 octave EQ, and adjustable X-overs, it allows very usable and effective tuning from the driver's seat (The digital time correction makes a huge difference in imaging when set properly BTW). But the Media Xpander sucks, just leave it off.

The interior is lined with 130cu.ft. of RAAMmat60 sound deadening. It made a HUGE difference. I lined the inside of the rear 1/4 panels, the roof, the entire floor, and all the doors (including hatch). I also used many rolls of double-sided foam tape to silence panel rattle.

The amps are both JBL Power Series. They can be found cheap on the internet, and are very high quality. I have them mounted in the rear 1/4, and so far no signs of over-heating (I will add fans if needed). They deliver very clean power and plenty of it for my needs.

As for the subwoofer, I've heard lots of good things about the Infinity Perfect series, but I have to admit I am still shocked at how well a single 10" in a sealed enclosure, given 300watts, will pound!!! This sub is a great bang-for-the-buck given what it sells for on the internet. Right now I am just running the single 4 ohm sub off of the JBL BP600.1, which makes 600 watts RMS at 2 ohms. I figure if I want more boom later, I can just add another 4 ohm Perfect 10.1, but I don't think I will need to after all.

Overall I am very pleased with the results.

Modifications:

-1.25" Torsion Twist and Warrior Shackles #153 Lift
-Camber Adjustment Kit
-American Eagle 589 15"x8" wheels
-BFGoodrich All-Terrain KO 31x10.5-15 tires
-18 Tooth Speedometer Gear (19 Tooth Stock)
-Mobil One Synthetic Oil

Stereo:

-Alpine CDA-9813 CD/MP3
-JBL P80.4
-JBL BP600.1
-Crystal Mobilesound CPe-60s components (front and rear)
-Infinity Perfect 10.1 (single 4ohm VC recieving a safe 300 watts from the BP600.1)
-StreetWires power distribution
-Phoenix Gold signal transfer
-130cu.ft. of RAAMmat60 Sound Deadening Material

Specifications and install features:
--Power to front and rear components: 40w RMS @ 4ohm
--Power to subwoofer: 300w RMS @ 4ohm
--Signal Interconnects (Head to Amp): 3 pair Phoenix Gold XSPS 20' (Twisted)
--Speaker wire (Components): 16 gauge Phoenix Gold
--Speaker wire (Subwoofer): 12 gauge Phoenix Gold (Quick release Bannana Plug/Binding Post installed in interior panel)
--Power Wire to Amps: 4 gauge StreetWires to distribution, 8 gauge StreetWires to amps, 2 Gauge Ground at Battery Terminal
--Subwoofer Box Constuction: 3/4 MDF, wood glue and 1-1/2" screws at all joints. Silicone Sealant at all joints (inside and out)
--Sound Deadening: 130 cu.ft. of RAAMmat60. Multi-layers on 1/4 panels, floor, roof, hatch, doors. Double-sided foam tape behind all interior panels to stop rattle
--Amp Rack Construction: 5/8 MDF, sheet metal screws, and L-Brackets
--Front Mid-Range Speaker Adapters: Modified stock brackets, attached to double layers of 1/4" hardboards. Liberal use of wood clue and silicone sealant
--Rear Mid-Range Speaker Install: Speakers mounted to 5/8" MDF which is behind the interior panel, surrounded by sound-deadening
--Components Crossovers: Mounted on back of amp-rack. Flat Tweeter Response on rear channel, -3dB Tweeter Response on front channel
--Time Correction Settings: FL= 2.1ms / FR= 1.0ms / BL= 1.3ms / BR= 0.3ms / Sub=0.0ms
--Crossover Settings: Front Ch= H-P 80Hz 12dB/Oct / Rear Ch= H-P 80Hz 12dB/Oct / Sub= L-P 80Hz 6dB/Oct
--EQ Settings: +2dB @ 160Hz w/Q-Factor of "3" / -1dB @ 16kHz w/Q-Factor of "3"

Pictures:

Before and After the lift and wheel/tire upgrade:

The Wheel and Tire package fills out the fender flares perfectly:

Misc pics:

Stereo Install Pics: (I did the entire install myself, and keep in mind I am very much a novice at this)

Final Results:

During the install: