This is the process I used to make my kick panels.Everybody has their own unique way of making them ,but there are generally some common practices most people use. This is by no means the easiest way way to make kick panels,but given the specific vehicle they are going in and the space limitations faced I feel this was the best method for this set of kicks.I hope this tutorial will help many of you aspiring to excel in fiberglass fabrication as much as past tutorials have helped me when I first started working with fiberglass 3 years ago...

The first step I did to ensure a totally stock/factory look was duplicate the original panel in fiberglass by taping up the panel and glassing over the front of it to make sure it fit like the original. This step alone was not easy and required sanding and build up from the front and back to make it as identical as possible to the orginal. You could always build up onto the stock plastic panel by drilling holes into it and glassing it from the front and back ,but that would be almost as much trouble as just striding ahead and making totally 100% glass kicks.

Using metal backstraps screwed into the panel and baffle ring to acheive desired angle.

Laser pointer used for accurate imaging angle in vehicle attached to metal L brace.

Angle secured

Measure 3-4 points of distance for support from the bottom of your ring to the panel to lock in your angle and keep it there. Make sure when placing your dowel rods between the ring and the panel you don't budge the ring by bending the metal.

Angled grinder used to acheive a flush fit with underside of ring by grinding down dowel rods in various degrees. Just slide the dowels in where they will be flush with the underside of the ring and meet the panel as well without disturbing the angle.

[for example]

Dowel rods inserted with hot glue and ready for permanent bond to panel.

I always glass in my dowels since such pain was taken to get the right angle. When stretching fleece tightly over the panel and ring you don't want the ring to come off.

Dowels glassed in

Fleece stretched over ring and panel for shape. notice Fleece is only strected over to the edge of the panel where it will meet the door. This was done to not interfere with the door functions.

Fleece resined

This is where I stopped with the fleece.This edge will need to be ground down in order to blend with the rest of the panel.

1-2 layers of chopped mat used on the inside of the kick for strength and to seal off the kick.

Edges ground down

Duraglass is used to blend and shape the panel. This takes considerable time and skill to get a uniform look. Duraglass unlike bondo should only be used to do extensive filling and shaping since it will not shrink or warp due to it's fiberglass content.Bondo and glazing putties should only be used in thin layers for filling pin holes and scrapes since it spreads so easily and is finer in consistency.

Duraglass application

glazing putty

After many rounds of sanding and beers.I go up to 800 gritsandpaper

Filler primer used for about 3 layers

Paint applied and job coming to close. 4-5 coats of paint....

Well thats it. More pics to come in the future of kicks installed in the car.Thanks for reading and visiting my page.