Lower control arm & sway bar frame/endlink bushings replacemant
Tools needed:
36 mm axle hub socket
Gear puller for disconnecting outer tie rod
Sockets 10,14,17,19,22
27 mm open end wrench or big adjustable wrench
new cotter pins
C-clamp is using ES sway bar endlink bushings
optional:
New sway bar endlinks
(if old ones are rusted)
New Link Bushing pin
(if old one is stuck on LCA)
Removal:
1)Raise ans support the vehicle, remove front wheels
2)Remove the axle hub locknut 36mm
3)Disconnect ABS sensor wire from strut 10 mm nut , and disconnest brake cable wire clip from strut.
4)Disconnect outer tie rod and strut to steering knuckle bolts
17,19 mm
5)Disconnect sway bar endlink nut and sway bar frame bushing bolts 14mm.
6)make sure during installation that frame bushing is facing front
7)Separate the halfshaft from steering knuckle and pull the steering knuckle toward you in order to gain access to balljoint nut 19mm
8)loosen up the balljoint nut once the cotter pin is removed
9)Lightly tap on the balljoint nut in order to seperate it from the steering knuckle
10)Loosen the 27 mm LCA link nut
11)Remove 6 22mm bolts that secure LCA to the frame
12)Remove LCA from the vehicle and transfer LINK BUSHING PIN onto new LCA, also transfer sway bar endlink onto new LCA
if the old endlink is rusted and impossible to remove, order new one and save huge amount of frustration associated with removing rusty old one.
13) Install the LCA, guide the balljoint back into steering knuckle and endlink back into sway bar.
14)Follow the proper tigtening seqence for 6 22 mm bolts
15)Install 27mm nut , but do not fully tighten yet
16)Compress the sway bar with big C-clap in order to install top sway bar endlink bushing and nut, but do not fully tighten yet.
17) Replace the sway bar frame bushings, make sure the bushing is facing forward and tighten 2 14mm bolts, but not fully yet
NOTE: OEM bushings are much softer then ES , thus there is no need to use C-clamp for OEM rubber bushings
18) Reinstal halfshaft back into steering knuckle, don't forget to tighten the balljoint nut and install new cotter pin.
19)Reassemble strut to steering knuckle, ABS wire bracket and brake hose cable metal clip.
20)Now Make sure that everything is reassembled and load the suspension by lowering front of the vehicle on jackstands which are placed under Lower Control Arms
Now tighten the 27mm nut,tighten sway bar endlink unt to 16-22Ft Lbs and sway bar frame bushing bolts to 40Ft Lbs.
Lower the vehicle, tighten the axle nut to specs, reinstall wheels and have the alignment checked.
Posted by: DARQMX
02/10/2009, 08:17pm
hey good write up on the inner tie rod but I just want to say a few things.
If you are desperate. You don't need an inner tie rod tool to take off the old one. You can use an Air chisel if you have one. (It is the old one so it is ok)
You really don't have to put grease on the steering gear if there is some grease already there, but good idea on the locktite. I did not do that.
You only need the locking plate just like you shown. The dealer inner rod may come with a washer, You can toss it.
And last but not least. You will need a prybar or something to put the outer back on if you don't have a tierod press kit. It sucked for me until I got a prybar with help from my bastard uncle. lol
I used 2 zip ties because it made a better clamp for the boot. Also you forgot to note that they can just snip the mechanical wire it is not needed and will not be useable again.
Also if you are still getting a clicking sound. The outers are bad. It turns out that my Inner was fine but I replaced it because I thought it was the inner. It turns out it was the outers. =[ lol