How To Change N-Body Springs
Ok, first off. You are going to need a decent air compressor and a GOOD impact gun to make things go smoothly. You will need a good metric socket set also. You really dont need a spring compressor if you have a friend handy. You will also need a hammer and probably a punch.

And for safety use jack stands please.

First lets start with som basics. Open the hood. In the 2 corners near the windshield there are 2 bubble lookin things, these are your strut towers. They have 2 nuts and 1 bolt on the outside part and on big nut in the center. The center nut is compressed pretty good and you may need to spray them with some PB blaster and any rust inhibitor. You can go ahead and do this right away and let it soak while you get started on some other things.

Alright, now jack the car up in the center to a decent height(really, it just needs to be high enough to get the wheel off). Put 2 jack stands up front(you can see little indentations where they can go) on each side. Lower the jack so the car rests on the jack stands. Go ahead and take both of the wheels off(also you arent supposed to use an impact gun to put them back on but can be used to take them off, I used it to put them back on anyways though)
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Next, you should have your hood open. You will need to take off the 2 small nuts and the small bolt on top off of the strut tower from the first assembly you want to do. Just use a rachet for these and have at it
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Alright now go look down on that assembly by the brake assembly a little above and behind that also there are 2 bolts with nuts on the other side. Take the impact gun and have at it on both of the nuts till they come off. You again may need to use some PB blaster on them.
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Now you may have noticed already that those bolts dont exactly come out on there own. they are grooved makin it a tight fit. SO, just grab a hammer and pound them till they come out. You may need to use a punch if they dont fly out. Dont worry these are pretty tough bolts, but still be careful with them.
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Ok, now the cool part. Push in towards the car on the assembly. It should pop off of the brake assembly and kind of fall out. It can be kind of hard finding the way to get them out of there but there is ONE way to get them out without unhooking anything else.

Now you have the whole suspension assembly in your hands, cool huh?
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Just stand it on the ground and have at that center nut with your impact gun. BE CAREFUL THOUGH! The front springs are quite compressed and if you go fast things will fly away and could injure someone or even worse, you could lose that part.
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The very top piece of the assembly is called the bearing plate, the next rubbery peice is the boot, then the spring(which you need to take out and replace with your new one), and then the strut.
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When you change the springs make sure you place the new one in just like the stock one was in there. There is a notch on the boot assembly that need to go on the end of the spring. AND MAKE SURE TO PULL THE STRUT ALL THE WAY UP BY HAND.
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Next might take a little skill. You have to kinda have to carefully compress the spring a little (if you dont have a spring compressor) without pushing the strut down at all, then try to slid the bearing plate on top. You should be able to see threads on the strut, if you dont you pushed the strut down some, try again. Once you see threads get that nut on there.
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Once you get the nut started tighten it down with the impact gun.
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Now you are ready to put the car back together. Make sure the bearing plate is positioned correctly before you wiggle it back up in there.
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Here is a pic of a good way to get everything aligned
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Finally start putting all the bolts and nuts back in. DO NOT FORGET TO TIGHTEN ANY!

NOW, go do the other side the same exact way.

Now that you got the front done time for the back! YIPPEE!!

You will not be able to use jack stands very easily. so just be careful. there is a place right in the center of the rear in the middle of the crossmember. Go ahead and take the wheels off again.

The back suspension is a little different. Pop your trunk and unscrew all of the little plastic things holding you carpet to your car. Then pull back the carpet in the corners of the middle of the car towards the rear exposing the rear strut towers. Instead of having 2 small nuts, 1 small bolt and one big nut on top of the strut tower, there is one small and one big nut on top and 2 small bolts you have to get from under the strut tower. But the bottom 2 bolts are the same as the front so I am not going to explain that again.

Remove the top small nut first
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Next, go look up from under the car and you should see the head of the 2 bolts you can see in the last picture. Have at em.
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After that have at the 2 bottom bolts and nuts. Once those are out it might take some wiggling around and there is only one way to get these in/out too. And this is the only way I have found.
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The assembly once out of the car is basically the same as the front. just take off the center big nut and be careful and go slow again. take it all apart and put it back together just like the fronts. Put the suspension back in just the way you took it out. but for the bottom 2 bolts and nuts, you have to get the bottom one in before you can put the top one in. Put the whole car back together.

And there you have it, you are done lowering your car. The springs will settle with time, some take longer than others(settle means you will get a more noticable drop with a little time)

A spring compressor can be rented at Autozone with a 50 dollar deposit but you get all that back when you bring it back. You will need this definetly if you are doing this by yourself.

Change Serp Belt on an 3.4L N-Body
Pick up a new belt. (I recommend Goodyear Gatorback)
Jack up the front of the car and secure with jackstands
Using a 3/8" breaker bar/power handle, insert the handle into the square hole in the belt tensioner.
Rotate the handle back towards the firewall to relieve tension on the belt

With the tension released, slip the belt off the alternator pulley.

With a hydraulic jack and a block of wood, place the jack under the oil pan
Raise the jack so that it rests against the oil pan, taking the engine's weight, but don't raise the engine!
Slowly loosen the passenger-side engine mount, making sure that the engine is secured by the jack. Keep loosening until your engine mount is off
Take note of the routing of the belt, then remove it from the engine

Route the new belt properly

Re-attach the engine mount, tighten

lower the jack from the engine

Use the breaker bar on the tensioner to give you enough slack to put the belt on over the alt. pulley.

Release the tensioner

Lower the vehicle off the jackstands.

Start the engine, check for proper running of the belt.

Congrats, you're done!
Bleed Brakes
As Most of you probably know the Braking system on a vehicle is based on "Hydraulics" (Liquid does not compress) Now of course if you get Air in your brakes they will not work right.

How do I know if there is air in my Brake lines???
You will get a very spongy feeling on the brake peddle, remembering that liquid does not compress but air does. So when you are applying the brakes you are compressing the air in the lines.

Doing a "Dry Bleed" on our cars requires a pressure bleeder and OBD 2 Scanner.

If you don�t use an OBD 2 scanner you when you bleed the brakes you will be bleeding the positive side of the ABS System. The first time your ABS Valves open, guess what ??? More air. So you need a scanner to lock the ABS Valves open for the bleeding process.

Even changing the brake pads will require you to crack the bleeder screw, if done the right way. The reason you have to crack the bleeder screw is because, if you just push the piston back you are pushing the crud that is in the braking system back into the ABS valves. And this might cause an ABS Failure. This rarely happens but it is a possibility.

But to just get some air out of the calipers that might have got sucked in, you will first need 2 people. One to pump the brakes and one to open the bleeder screw. Start by first pumping the brake peddle about 10 time to build pressure, then open the bleeder screw, then once all the fluid/air has come out close the screw. Do not let up on the brake peddle before the screw has been close tightly or else you will suck in more air! The process should be continued until all the air is out and you get a steady stream of fluid coming out. If it is just a simple brake job, one to two times should do.

DONT DO'S!

As I said when DO NOT Let up on the brake peddle when the bleeder screw is open you will suck in a lot of air!

If you have high Miles/KM on you car and you have never opened the bleeder screw before be sure not to brake it off they tend to seas up after a wile.

If you are cracking the bleeder screw when the caliper is off DO NOT tip it upside down! Once again you will just suck in lots of air.

Vacuum Bleeders
If you only have yourself to bleed the brakes you could try a "Vacuum Bleeder� This tool will literally suck the air and fluid out of the lines. There is no pumping needed. The problem with these is that they tend to suck air from the outside around the threads on the bleeder screw. In my opinion they suck. But there may be better ones than I have use out there.

Hope this helps for all your Brake bleeding needs. It is a fairly simple process. Good luck

Wheel Hub Brearings
Ok some of you peeps have mentioned wheel bearing problems.. Well for those of your brave enough to do this at home heres some help. (TIP: get a Haynes repair book..its VERY worth the $12)

Tools
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-36mm axel nut socket (loaner from Autozone)
-WD40 or other penetrator (everything will be rusty)
-13mm short socket (I always preferred the 12 point but whatever)
-13mm wrench (convenient for the tight spaces around CV axel)
-Flange Axel FWD puller (loaner from autozone OEM27037)
-coat hanger or wire (to hang caliper aside)
-jack stands (highly don't recommend just using your regular jack only to hold car up)
-3/4 drive torque wrench capable of 250ft/lbs or more..or impact gun capable of 250ft/lbs or more..
-1/2 inch drive breaker bar
'Slide Hammer Hub puller (loaner from autozone)'

1. remove wheel and put on the spare.. The 36mm axel nut socket won't fit in the center hole. lower the car and with a 3/4 inch breaker bar loosen the nut. (now this is factory torqued at over 250ft/lbs. so this will take some serious work) I used a impact gun and just slowing and carefully loosened the nut careful not to break it or strip the threads. WD40 works good here.

2. once nut is off lift car, remove spare tire, and secure on a jackstand.

3.remove the brake caliper mounting bracket.. I found that its not necessary to remove the caliper and what not.. unbolt the bracket using the 13mm socket and a breaker bar. Slide the caliper off the rotor and hang caliper aside with a piece of coat hanger or wire. Remove the rotor.

4. Attach the hub puller to the hub using 3 lug nuts. make sure to tighten the lug nuts evenly (I did 1/4 turn each nut a time until tight) otherwise you may attach puller crooked and it could damage he lug nuts. tighten the slide hammer to the axel. do not push the axel in too much yet just get it started. (note: AZone puller used a 19mm socket or wrench for turning of center bolt )

5. there are 3 bolts on the back of the steering knuckle right close to where the CV joint goes into the hub. Use your 13mm socket and breaker bar to remove those bolts. (becareful not to damage the CV boot while doing this.. I found if you turned the steering wheel one side to another it was easier to get in there and access the bolts..

6. disconnect the Wheel Speed Sensor connector and unclip it from the bracket.

7. keep a good hold on the hub and begin to use the puller to seperate the hub from the axel.. CAUTION:BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO PULL ON THE AXEL TOO MUCH.. ONE OR BOTH OF THE JOINTS COULD BE PULLED APART INSIDE IF YOU PULL ON THE AXEL TOO MUCH. Once the axel has been removed from the hub carefully thread the wheel speed sensor wire thru the knuckle. the sensor bracket will also come off.

8. Push the Wheel speed sensor thru the knuckle hole and guide the axel into the new hub. (make sure you put the sensor bracket back on too)

9. installation is reverse removal.. tighten hub bolts, then install rotor, slide caliper back into place and tightn bolts, put spare tire back on lower car, tighten axel hub nut to factory specs.. which I know is over 250ft/lbs.

Now once everything together I put my wheel back on however with the car still raised up I put the car in neutral and spun the wheel freely just to listen for any clicking or scraping of the brakes.. This was to make sure the brake caliper didn't need adjusted and to make sure there wasn't any damage to the CV axel.

Disclaimer
It is always recommended that you tighten all bolts to torque specs. I didn't have a smaller torque wrench and the impact gun wouldn't fit.. so I tightened the bolts down as close to as tight as it was for me to remove them.. I can post all torque specs if requested. Also note that I am not a certified mechanic nor to I consider myself a guru of any sort.. This is to be for reference purpose only.. I accept no responsibility for any damages or injuries should you try this on your own.

I recommend that if you have any reservations about performing this work that you find a mechanic buddy who could do this and pay them cash, beer, IOU, whatever.. This thread was basically for the purpose of informing you of the bolt and nut sizes and basic tools needed to do the job.

Once I got all the tools it took me about an 90 minutes to change one hub.. this would probably be considered slow.. but oh well. Most dealers or mechanics would charge you 2+ hours labor anyways.

'CAUTION:BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO PULL ON THE AXEL TOO MUCH.. ONE OR BOTH OF THE JOINTS COULD BE PULLED APART INSIDE IF YOU PULL ON THE AXEL TOO MUCH.'