On this page, I will try to give a brief walk through for all my fellow f-bodies looking to do something similar in their ride. I could have squeezed out more space by removing the spare tire. I actually started on a box before this, where I removed the side panels and spare tire. Turned out to be more work then I was willing to do...so I scraped it. I just don't have the time. For those thinking of going down that path, you're in for a hell of a time with the f-body's concave quarter panels! For those thinking of doing anything similar to my install, I say go for it. Fiberglass is actually pretty "user friendly". You don't have to be perfect. Just get a vison in your head and work it out step by step. Anyway, on with the install!

First, lay down a few layers of aluminum foil. Tape up the seems real good. Those are my old amps in that pic. A Rockford 800a4 and bd1000a1.

Next, use a drop cloth over anything you don't want resin on. If resin gets on something, it's probably not coming off without some damage. Spray a LIGHT coat of WD-40 over the foil. This will aid in the mold release process. Don't go crazy, a little bit will do. If it pools up, you've used far too much and should soak it up with a clean rag.

Get all your materials ready! Resin, catalyst, mat, cloth, cheap brushes, graduated cup, latex gloves, scissors, and acetone. Couple of things not pictured here that should be used. First, a respirator. Don't try to be a tough guy and just bare it. The fumes aren't overpowering at first but after several hours of glassing, you'll be tasting it for days. Second, a pair of goggles. The fumes will start working on your eyes after a bit. Non-vented goggles wouldn't be a bad idea. Imagine if you were to accidently sling a glob on resin in your face! $3.99 is a small price to pay for a lifetime of vision. :-(

And while we're on the topic of resins, you should use a laminating resin. Surfacing resins have a wax in them that rises to the top during curing. This wax should be sanded off between layers. A surfacing resin should be used for your final layer only AND only if you intend on prep and painting the visable portion of the glass. I don't have a visable portion so I just used laminating resin. Also, for a enclosure that will require extra strength use a bi-axil for cloth. I used Kyntex 1708. Basically, it's just a heavy weight cloth woven with Kevlar. A tad expensive, but worth every penny.

This looks trickier then it is. You need to measure out the curvature of the rear bumper area. Just lay something flat across the rear paneling over where you just glassed. Then measure from the flat object to the rear portion of the vehicle. Take a measurement every few inches. The more measurements you makes the smoother the curve will be. Cut out your piece and test fit it against the rear bumper area. Should fit pretty snugly. Make sure it's level then glass it in place.

Sorry I skipped a few pics here. But it's pretty self explanatory. Cut yourself a divider if you want. Doesn't have to be perfect. The fiberglass will seal it all up. Go head and glass the divider to the box. Measure and cut the baffle the subwoofers will be mounted on. It's a rectangle, not too hard. Then just center the holes. Easy. Test fit the baffle. Look good? Remove the entire box from the vehicle. Now would be a good time to trim off any excess glass that might have been laid. I used a dremel with a steel wheel. (About $11 from Home Depot) Worked perfect. Now, glass the baffle to the box. Take extra care to make sure there are no holes anywhere in your box. (except the sub holes of course....)

Now it's time to seal it all up! Lay strips of fiberglass along all the seems where wood meets fiberglass. Do a few layers. This is a pic of the seal after I put it back in the car. Next, you'll want to sand off all drops of resin or debris on the face of your box. Make a smooth surface for your covering. Especially if you plan on using vinyl as I have. Every speck will show through. Sand well.

There she is! All your hard work has finally paid off. Doesn't look too bad at all!

And these are my new amps. The amp rack is actually really easy. Just measure twice and cut once.

PAGE 1=The car
PAGE 2=The gear
PAGE 3=The install