Vehicle Owner

Member ID: tntsbmw

Location: Eden Prairie, MN

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Vehicle Info

1988 BMW 3-Series

Bragging Rights

  • 1/4 Mile0 sec @ -1 mph
  • 0-600sec
  • Top Speed-1mph
  • HP-1
  • Weight-1lbs

Major Upgrades

  • turbo
  • nitrous
  • bore increase
  • port and polish
  • supercharger
  • extrude honed
  • stroke increase
  • engine swap

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    • Currently 3.0/5 Stars.

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Last updated: Mar 06, 2006

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Travis’s BMW 3-Series
“tntsbmw_mods”

  • Currently 2.96 /5 Stars.
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E30 to Z4 short shifter upgrade Mod

Here is the parts list for my 1988 325ic:

Qty = 1 for each of these...
25-11-7-516-160 Z4 3.0 Shift Lever
31-33-1-092-887 Nut
25-11-1-220-379 Spec. Circlip
25-11-1-220-439 Spec. Shim
25-11-7-501-309 Joint
25-11-1-221-849 Guide Pin
25-11-1-220-832 6-Bush Bearing
25-11-1-220-707 6-Supt. Brkt
25-11-1-220-379 Spec. Circlip
25-11-1-220-439 Spec Shim
25-11-1-469-397 Trans. Shifter Bush
(Check with your dealer to verify these parts are correct for your E30. Some have different shift selector shafts.)

tntsbmw's 1988 BMW 3-Series

tntsbmw's 1988 BMW 3-Series

tntsbmw's 1988 BMW 3-Series

tntsbmw's 1988 BMW 3-Series


tntsbmw's 1988 BMW 3-Series

tntsbmw's 1988 BMW 3-Series


tntsbmw's 1988 BMW 3-Series

tntsbmw's 1988 BMW 3-Series


tntsbmw's 1988 BMW 3-Series

tntsbmw's 1988 BMW 3-Series


tntsbmw's 1988 BMW 3-Series

tntsbmw's 1988 BMW 3-Series


tntsbmw's 1988 BMW 3-Series

I'll have to add the write-up later.....

Here is a further explanation of the differences after 6/86 build date:

BMW changed to your (1988) style shifter in 6/86 -- before that was the sheetmetal console which needs the parts at the included link. It says that #14 is an option, but after rebuilding mine it should be done as it is the felt insert that goes on the end of the selector rod on the tranny (vibration and stiffness).

>http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/e30/5104239-3.html

Okay. In terms of console bushings, there are three. In the diagram above, they are parts 1 and 7. I'd also get a couple of 2's, as they come with locking material on them (and are known to back out of the transmission). It can't hurt to get a couple 8's and 9's either, as they are easy to lose and the clips are easy to break. If you wanna go crazy (I didn't), 14 is a rubber washer that wears out over time.

1: 25 11 1 208 580 (2)
2: 25 11 1 205 659 (2)
7: 25 11 1 204 422 (1)
8: 25 11 1 209 078 (4)
9: 25 11 1 220 379 (2)
14: 23 41 1 466 118 (1)

For the shift lever, you really don't need any parts. You can reuse ones off of your old shifter, but you have to grind down the metal ball and it's a pain in the [Oops!]. For as cheap as the parts are, I'd just get new ones. Here's the list for stuff to replace in the two pics above:

Upper Diagram:
4: 25 11 1 207 744 (1)
8: 23 41 1 200 844(1)
12: 23 41 1 466 112 (1)
Lower Diagram:
4: 23 41 1 466 110 (1)

For installation, you're going to have to file down the inner rim of the upper ball cup to slide it down over the Z4 lever.
That should be all, as long as memory serves.
tntsbmw's 1988 BMW 3-Series
tntsbmw's 1988 BMW 3-Series

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Vehicle Owner

Member ID: tntsbmw

Location: Eden Prairie, MN