So two weeks of sitting in 100 degree heat got out all the wrinkles.  No need to iron them out or lay the top in the sun for a few hours.  Nope.  You just need a job that keeps you out of the country for two weeks and an uninsulated 100+ degree shop to work in and your alllll set!  So step one is to cover the entire car with plastic sheets to keep off any overspray from the adhesive.  I then clamped the driver's side top down to secure it so it won't move.  With that done and several new razor blades, a few plastic putty knives, and two bottles of spray adhesive standing by, it's now time to start gluing. (and sweating, cursing, yelling, foot stomping, and throwing things too!!!)

 As you can see, there's a defenite method here.  I folded the top back onto itself until the halfway mark was visible on the roof that I had made earlier.  You can also see I put a sheet of plastic in between the folded pieces to prevent any overspray from getting onto the new top.  I sprayed about 8 inches of roof and 8 inches of vinyl top with adhesive making sure to get the window channels heavily coated.  I then stood in the driver's side door jamb and starting in the middle, smoothed the top out evenly with firm constant pressure along the whole length.  Wait, that didn't come out right.  What I meant to say was...now I lost my train of thought.  Where's my wife at????  Better move on.... 

After I reached the edge I used the plastic putty knife to get into the window channels and drip rails so the top can stick down firmly.  I sprayed two coats of glue here as this area, and the corners, tend to lift.  I then used a razor blade and trimmed the extra vinyl off the drip rail being careful to only cut the vinyl right where it meets the vertical part of the drip rail.  Some guys wrap the vinyl around the drip rail, but I don't want to do that because the added thickness really makes installing the drip rail trim a major headache.  With ample glue, this top isn't going anywhere.  I repeated the same thing ont he driver's side next and after about 1.5 hrs...

 ...Here's the results!  No bubbles, creases, and no peeling edges.  I'm real happy with the results and it's something you can easliy do at home.  But as you can see, you need to have the glass and drip rail trim off to properly do this. 

 I'm holding the vinyl top trim on just to get the overall look.  Remember all that work I did at these quarter panel to roof joints?  Not a wave or bump to be seen!

Here's the front and rear window channels that shows the top glued down securely.  Do yourself a favor (which I didn't) and mark on the lower part of the channel where the reveal clip holes are.  It makes a little easier to find after the fact....

But, I still found them.  Just found one and meaured to get the rest.  The clips actually hold the top down too.  It's secruely glued, but the clips help.  The factory actually used two metal staples in the upper corners, but I don't have that kind of heavy duty staple gun, so the glue and clips works for me!  I used 3M 90 hi strength glue.  This stuff is strong enough to bond Hydrogen to Oxygen, for cripes sake!  So needless to say, it's perfect for the vinyl top.  I bought two cans and used over one and a half. 

Oh man...where's my trim?!??!!  With the black roof and Z8 option Performance Hood Treatment, it's turning out to be one sharp lookng machine.  The body plug kit, interior insulation, headliner, and body bumper kits are on the way.  I'm hoping to get all that done this month then after the headliner is in, the glass gets installed shortly afterwards.  I can't wait until this thing is sitting on it's own four feet again.    More to come...