Here is a pic of the used TB I picked up. Great deal on it, shipped to my door with a all sensors for $30.
Here's another shot of it from the back side.
This shot is to show the taper that the base of the TB has. It shrinks down to 58mm at that point from the opening measurement of 60mm.
*****Disconnect the battery before removing any sensors. After the rebuild is done and it's ready to fire up, reconnect the battery.********
The TPS is a T20 torx head screws. Basically the entire TB can be torn down with that same size. Here is the TPS removed.
To remove the butterfly, unscrew the two T20 screws on the center rod and open the butterfly up. Then slide the butterfly out of the rod from the top to remove. The taper will not allow the buterfly through the bottom. Once this is out, the rod and throttle arm assembly can be removed all together.
Once the TPS is out, just carefully start to slide the assembly out by using the throttle arm as the handle. There is a small piece of spring that is wedged between a slot under the arm on the base of the TB.
Now you can remove the IAC motor from the IAC housing by removing the two T20 screws. This is the best time to clean up the IAC motor rod that controls idle air flow.
Now that the IAC motor is out, you can remove the housing by taking out the four T20 screws. ** These screws are not the standard T20 screws. As pictured here, they have a small nub in the center that I grinded down with a dremel bit to access them with a standard T20 bit. I didn't realize this, and should have probubly located the right bit to use. This way though, I can use any standard T20 to get it off if I have to.**
This is a pic of the grinded down screw.
Here is a picture of the removed housing. You'll need to get a gasket for it from the dealership. I have not been able to locate one through a local parts store, but I am still looking.
I took this pic to show the bearings on the TB housing that are there for the TB butterfly rod. Clean these units out before and after the boring process. Once bored and cleaned, I lubed them up with white grease to keep them lubed.
Here is a pic of the completed TB. It looks great and is now a straight 60mm all the way down.
Here is another shot, the weather was on and off all day, and I was in kind of a hurry to get this done, so excuse the overcast pic. But the lack of a taper at the base.
Sinse I didn't think to get a IAC housing gasket ahead of time, I was forced to use some gasket material from the parts store and make my own using the broken one as a template. I will go to the dealer and pick one up in a day or two.
Reassembly is just as easy as the disassembly. The hardest part will be getting the lower spring on the TB housing while putting the rod back in. It's not that hard, but it does take some time. You can't really install the TPS in wrong. The rod tip is what slides into the sensor, and if installed wrong the throttle won't open. With the IAC housing and motor, just document the direction that it was originally in. I had the orginal TB to use as a guide, but a digi pic, or even drawing of the sensor plugs would be a good guide.
**Make sure to disconnect the battery and put the ignition forward to drain the PCM before you fire it up again. Once the TB is installed, reconnect everything and fire it up. Let it idle for a minute, the drive it around for a coulpe of miles. Don't baby it too much, but don't get on it too much either. I did mine around the neighborhood, then out to a stretch where I could get it up to 80.
The next page has the Tools I used to do the bore as cheaply as possible.
Bored TB tools
Here is the sanding cylinder kit I bought at Harbor Freight. I had just missed the sale that had it for $8 and ended up paying $13 for it! The biggest cylinder is smaller than the 60mm bore I needed, but I wanted something I could build up on to make the progression smoother.
They (harbor frieght) also sold sanding belts for larger sanders. I picked up these 80grt belts for about $1.30 for a pack of three.
I cut the belt in half to make a thinner loop, then cut one side to end up with a long strip. I then attached a strip to the cylinder and wrapped it around in the same rotation as the drill. I used a plain old 3/8 drill, nothing too fancy. With the sand paper wrapped around, I check to make sure the cylinder was now a TIGHT fit. I fired it up and when I could feel it get easier to spin, I pulled it out of the TB still spinning. If you don't it will get caught on the IAC openings.
Here is a pic of the wrapped cylinder before I start boring again. After each one got easier to spin, I would put some masking tape underneath the strip on the cylinder to fatten up the wrap. I used the same piece about 4 times before cutting a new strip to fit.
Once the bore is complete, I used plain old sheet sandpaper to smooth the bore out. I used the same technique of wrapping. I folded the 220grt paper in half and taped it to the cylinder again.
Here is the 220grt wrapped to fit. I used the same masking tape trick to fatten the paper up, but only did it once to get a smooth bore.
1. After lift with Truck tires on.
2. DIY Bored Throttle body
3. Oil Filet Adapter housing Orings
4. Clean and with new Mud Rovers
5. RRO Adjustable Trac Bar
6. Various mods
7. DIY Intake and shield
8. Added lift for 4"
9. Greased Leaf Pack wheeling
10. Cat Back Exhaust and Cat
11. B&M Trans Cooler
12. Cheap Disconnects Upgraded
13. Hidden Hitch Installed
14. AJ's Offroad Rock Rails
15. Dual Diaphram Brake Booster install
16. Offroad with rails and hitch on
17. Water Pump Replacement