While im waiting to take hollidays and swap in the new motor I painted one of my spare rocker covers (sky blue).

Turned out pretty good just using a spray can

I also checked to see if my daihatsu feroza distributor cap would fit and it does

This gives better clearance for the intercooler pipe and will also nearten up the spark plug leads too.

Today I got a call from Newcastle Jap Engines informing me of the arrival of my motor. So I went and picked it up.

Upon inspection it would appear to be in good nic and has done only a handfull of km's. Under the rocker cover is clean also the water fittings and galleries

 So the process of stripping everthing off it begins. Ive got 2 engine stands , one for each motor... This will make the trasition of manifolds and sump much easier.

I did some mods to open up the airbox.. and got a K&N air filter from Rocket Industries also. part number # KN33-2533

Old blown motor out!!

Hellooooo! Replacement Engine!!

Most of the parts are now installed on the engine and it looks tops!

I have made an interesting discovery while looking at the heads of my busted and spare motors. There seems to be 2 port cofiguruations for the inlet.

 This head is from the original motor in the applause and is a 93 model. My feroza also has the same head and is a 93. The inlet ports are large with a big area leading down to the face of the valve. these heads have a casting on them witch is 06. I will refer to it as the big port head!

  My new engine has the number 16 cast into it . This could be an updated version of the head.

The smaller ports have a much smaller area leading down to the valve, but seems as though it would be directing the air at a better more smoother angle to the valve. Generally a smaller more narrow port shape will increase air speed at lower RPM thus resulting in more cylinder fiiling at lower engine speed equaling more low down torque..... for me this means that the turbo might come on a bit sooner...hopfully!! I dont really think it will be a restriction at the top end as it may actually flow better given the more smoother angle to the valve. We will have to see. If anyone reading this has some flow bench figures on these 2 heads id be happy to hear about it.

All going well ill be driving it this weekend!!!!!

Its the weekend and i got to drive it and put some kms on it. I didnt boost it past 2 psi until im comfortable that everything is ok. There were no temperature problems, it stayed stable at its normal range.

Just a few pics of the oil cooler system finally plumbed in.

Today I went to the wreckers and got a switch witch mounts in the factory position where the blanked off ones are located.

 Far right is the blank.                     With the new switch in.

This switch will be used to turn on / off the Air fuel ratio meter.

All installed and" its all factory officer!"

A few pics of the decorative / heat shield i made up for the exhaust manifold.

Since the whole lot has gone together there has been this little niggling noise / vibration. The long drive shaft on the drivers side has a vibration dampener from factory and have a tendancy to come adrift, as mine had. I went to the wreckers to try and find a replacement. A mitsubishi lancer cc mid 90s model provided a similar shape and size dampener. So I installed it with a 90% sucess rate ,so i guess this will have to do.

So if you need to replace yours this would be a suitable option.

Daihatsu does not sell them.

Ive descided to rebuild the rear brake calipers as they were very stiff on their slides and also making an embarassing squealing noise when braking in reverse .... carparks , driveway ect.

All done and back in the car. No more squealing. Its important that you clean the internals of the housing as well as you can so that the whole assembly works smoothly.

This is the makings of a new guage holder that will be permanently mounted in place of the other temporary one.

Aaah! the beloved shed .. where projects come to life!!...