Here's the mg I am building for my Dad. The original drivetrain worked great but they were not designed for todays highway speeds or my Dad's driving style. He wanted something that would always start and be able to handle multiple journey's to Daytona from Oklahoma like the one him and I took it on a couple of years before deciding to put in a modern drivetrain. I decided on an sr20de because I have always been a Nissan fan and decided to go with a sr20de and not the d et because of weight and available space u nder the hood (had to have the hood close with no scoop). I also wanted the snappy response of a naturally aspirated engine, to keep the feel of a british car just with more power. The sr20 has a huge aftermarket so parts availablity and power potential would not be an issue. the engine is a lat er model with variable valve timing which I picked up from an engine importer off ebay. so  far engine mounts have been made and currently in the process of modifying the tranny tunnel to get that five speed in there. I have plans of using a toyota 8" rear axle to handle the power and changing from leafs to a four link of some kind. also planning on using the original wheels but having the rears widened to accept 255/40-13 and keep them under the fenders to try to keep the original look.  original engine with a sidedraft weber and header

engine comparison, 1.5L p ushrod to 2.0L dohc.

And the fun begins!

Its all in there with the hood shut.

    

Very quickly realized a lot was going to have to be removed and remade.

 this is what I came up with to replace the old tunnel as well as to reinforce the structure of the car just in case it ever happens to get a turbo, which it probably will lol.
 

 

here is the completed tunnel I sanded it down and  sprayed a few coats of clear over. It may or may not get covered up in the future.

 

I replaced all the gauges with full electric autometers. The programmable speedo is the only way to go!

 

  I Had to create a new heater tray in order to set the engine back far enough. the battery was behind the heater core it is now in the trunk.

 Here is the header I made in order to get the exhaust out the back without having to cut anything else up. The steering shaft goes through the header and has to be removed in order to get the header out.

The header, as well as the entire exhuast is made from mandrel bends.

 

 

I wrapped the header in order to keep some of the heat out of the engine bay as well as off of my feet.

 the exhuast is ran up over the rearend unlike the original that ran below and I thought was an eyesore. It is now hard to see anything unless you get down low.

the original radiator wasnt going to cut it so room was made to install a new aluminum radiator. It ended up with a slight layback in order to clear the hood. also the front frame horns right in front of the sway bar were shortened to to be able to drop the radiator further down.

I used a piece of 3 inch mandrel bend exhuast tubing to create the air intake which goes through the fenderwell. the 6 inch cone filter is located right behind the headlight, I also made a stainless steel inner fender to keep water and road debri off of the filter.

This is what it looks like today. I have been driving it to try to find any problems but have yet to find any. I am stiil taking it fairly easy on it because I still have not replaced the rearend, but hopefully money permitting that will be soon to come.