Modifications & Maintenance. 

Intake :

Short-Ram, away from water and less resistance.

Plugs :

0.6mm Copper Core with Nickle surround and Iriduim Firing tip.

Denso went 0.4mm.

NGK and Autolite went 0.6mm.

Champion and Bosch went 0.7mm.

Very good plug IMO and Anything that NGK does has got to be good and autolite followed there footsteps.

Mounts :

I added the Energy Suspension Motor Mounts, First drive is questionable cause there still breaking in but idle is felt more inside cabin and engine seems to start rougher but it's also winter time so the break-in period will be longer, I will see if I still like them by spring/summer...It's just the idle is alot rougher inside but once you start moving it's fine...I will update around summer time...

UPDATE: 4 Days Later

I did the Idle Air Procedure and now everything idles and feels fine, I guess the ECU needed new info from the sensors since the engine is held stiffer...All in all, i'm happy and my wheel hop has dropped alot...YAY!

Short Throw Shifter :

I did the FREE STS mod that I found on maxima.org and I must say and seriously stress that the car should have come like this from factory, It's a night and day difference and it feels amazing...It's about 50 percent shorter and it's like one of the best things I ever did to any car I owned...

I went the extra step and got the best parts I thought I should use just cause why not not have the best.

You will need a bolt that I got from nissan it's actully the caliper bolt, It the 14mm bolt that need's to be removed for a brake pad change...It has a smooth surface and then the threads, The smooth surface is the same width of the bushing that's on the shifter linkage and since it's a brake component....It's strong....

You will also need a 9/32 drill bit.

And an 8-1.0 metric Tap to tap the hole for the bolt...

all these can be found at local hardware stores.

I marked the spot, started to drill, turned slowly untill the tap stopped and then tested the bolt by itself untill it stopped then connected everything up and went for a test drive and smiled and was amazed...

6th Gen Big Brake Kit :

An Absolute MUST for this car because the stock braking is insufficient and your rotors will continue to warp so I opted for the 6th gen (2005) maxima brakes which are in one word amazing on this car.

They just barely fit under the 5.5 Gen 17" Rims...

It consists of 6th gen Maxima Calipers, Mounting brackets, & Shim set.

PowerSlot Rotors & Hawk HPS Pads...

H&R Wheel Spacers :

I put 10mm Wheel Spacers on the rear to give the rear a slightly wider stance as the stock way seemed too close for my liking...

VAIS Block Plate :

After about 2K miles, I can now write a review for this mod and It's a good thing to do, The car feels more peepy and power up top is amazing, When in second gear and around 4K the car pulls like a mad beast and throws you in back of the seat just the way the 3.5 should and keeps getting stronger as the RPM's rise...There has been talk of you losing low-end TQ but since i'm a 6th Speed, My gears are so small that I don't feel it...Both upper and lower chambers are always open and it seems that the car breathe's better...

My gas mileage has not been affected in anyway so I see this as nothing but a good thing...

Exhuast :

Decided to go with the Borla Pro XS Muffler and custom piping, Very quiet and very nice power increase. The tips are custom done and look beautiful. I'm happy.

Battery Relocation :

I been searching everywhere for a proper guide to relocating the battery on the Max so I decided to do my own little write up just in case anyone else wants to do this...

I know you can make your own kit from junk you find at your local parts store but I just ordered the kit from summit and paid the 80 bucks, saves me gas and time and I just like getting stuff in the mail..

PLEASE READ EVERYTHING BEFORE PROCEEDING and i'm not responsible for your mistakes so read carefully, use intelligence and be aware that your messing with your cars electrical system, You can blow fuses, fry the ECU and cause a fire so please be careful.

Battery Box from summit.




Packaging.



Everything included.



Open trunk, all doors, and disconnect positive cable .



Starter and fuse box on positive cable .



Both connected to fuse .



The blue cable is my subwoofer positive wire, just pretend it's not there; The negitive screws into the body and attaches to engine ground.



Remove battery terminal connector from wires.



120 amp fuse



Remove screw from battery terminal holder.



Pry open terminal battery holder.



Put back the positive terminals as they were and put the screw you just got out of the battery terminal and put it through hole and attach the nut.




Time for break... I'm hungry...Go eat...



Open fender liner on drivers side and you will see two holes... One goes up into the engine and the other is used by your hood open wire that goes inside the cabin, I used my sub wire and taped them together to pull it through so I didn't have to take off my fender liner.



Pull out floor panel and run wire, I used a little tape not shown here to make it a little neater.



Push it under middle section and rear floor panel and under the seat at the side and right into the trunk.



Replace floor panels front and back.





Put battery in box and connect the ground wire and I have no idea how but there was a little hole which I didn't see but when I pushed my finger against the felt to make a hole for the wire my finger just went through so just make one if it's not there and use the screw from the bag that came from summit and find a hole to ground the neg wire.





Connect positive wire between starter and fused connection and put on screw and nut from earlier.



I just taped up my neg cable end until I can get to autozone to cut it off and crimp on an end that I can ground to the body somewhere.



Now some notes...

I used what I had laying around and I will complete the job and make everything neat and tidy like stock after work tomorrow. With that said...

All white duck tape will be replaced with black tape.

The neg cable that's taped up will be cut off and probably replaced with a thicker gauge cable, stock looks to be a 4 gauge and I will replace with a 2 gauge wire and the battery terminal connector will be cut off and I will crimp on something that I can use a screw with.

I will also be getting a power distribution block to connect the the starter/fuses to the main power cable which I recommend because it's neater and looks nice...

Some people say run the positive wire under the car and drill holes to hold the battery box in place but I am not drilling anything lol, The battery will be just fine in the box and strapped down with the hooks that are in the trunk. Use a cable strap or something, I don't think it will move at all...

If I did anything wrong or said anything incorrect, please feel free to comment and I can fix the post, I did what seemed right to me and it's working great, bass is hitting and lights are bright, engine feels normal, I'm happy...

Strut Tower Brace :

Coming Soon.

Page 1 - Intro

Page 2 - Sound System

Page 3 - Interior/Exterior Pics

Contact Me:

Myspace

XDTALK

Skype: KCXD35

AIM: KCXD35