http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwZj-PhVcvA

                                               metal finishing a caved in door

 bare metal roller  

etch primed with black jams

 i just based the rear quarters 8624 gm white. i dont know how i feel about the shade yet. its almost too bright. if you look at it in the sunlight and close your eyes, you still see the car. it might be a bit too much. i have also been getting a little to much shit from people over the old school vette rally wheels, but i don't care, i still like em. yea, that vinyl top had to go also, i couldn't stand it.

 this car has cost me thousands upon thousands of dollars, many speeding tickets and a few  girlfriends.  i plan on running it next year in the world street challenge. you know the drill, a bunch of assholes like me  try to build the fastest thing possible on unmodified floor pans and firewall then try to race each other. i am no stranger to NHRA super pro quarter and eighth mile bracket, and regretable a healthy amount of street racing. needless to say street racing isnt the best of ideas, its dangerous and expensive if u get caught.   this is the end of the body work. in 2 weeks i should have the body 100%painted and ready to do the doors.

after blocking surfacer four times and the raw steel twice to ensure that it is totaly straight. and yes, about 70% of the car had to be taken down to bare metal because of a major E coat failure. ever notice all the mid 80's chevys that have the softball sized rust spots randomly over the hole car? this one was trying to do that. the body lines actualy look a little more crisp than it did in the factory paint. its a lot easier metal finishing detroit iron than it is dealing with the new 18 and 20 guage steel in the new cars. or ever worse, the smart steel laminated cars like the cobalt.  they don't make em like they used to. unfortunately, due to longterm exposure to materials used in bodywork, i have developed health problems that made themselves quite apparent while completing the bodywork. so i will not be personaly finnishing my paint nor will i ever paint again. luckily i have a friend who owns a bodyshop who is going to finish painting it for me. talk about karma bieng a biatch. i have painted more cars than i can count over the years and when i finaly get around to doing mine, shit decides to happen. the lesson learned is ALWAYS WEAR A RESPIRATOR!!!!!!!!!! even when sanding surfacer.  or you too can have cysts in your sinuses.

i got rid of the factory fuel tank and replaced it with a jazz racing 16  gallon fuel cell. the factory 3/8 fuel line wasnt sufficient for the amount of fuel the e85 carb demanded. the car is now plummed with -8 an stainless braid from the fuel cell to the  frame rail mounted holley red, then with big end racingaluminun 1/2in to the  fire  wall. also a trunk mount battery and remote battery off  switch in the right center tail light.

interior is almost stock still. the car   doesnt have climate controll anymore  so the  factory climate control was replaced a carbon fiber dash kit that i made out of carbon fiber floorboards i had left over from a blowout mod i did on an airplane at work. also mounted the head unit in the carbon

the motor is a 358ci small block chevy, scat racing crank,x rods, kieth black domes,lunati cam,"dont usualy disclose cam specks or compression", harland sharp 7/16 stud 1.5 ratio rockers with billet stud girdles, cloyes double roller chain, edelbrock tm-1 intake, holley 4150 doublepumper with quick fuel technologies e85 conversion metering blocks, mallory billet hei distributor with 10.5 mm wires, and a very healthy  shot  of nitrous. i have plans together to build a 2 stage direct port system for it this winter. obviously still building it but almost done. i ran into problems  with the steering box. it is in the way of the alternator big time. the car cant turn left at all  right now. so i am going to convert it over to a mustang 2 manual rack. believe it or not, it is actualy cheaper than re building the stock steering. also the power brakes had to go. it has vaccum assist power brakes that dont work to well on a moter with no vaccum. i had to get rid of that tiny ass distribution block. there was no way that thing would of allowed enough fuel though. the guys at the local speedshop damned near fell out of thier chairs when they found out i was going to attempt to use something that small on ethanol.

i fueled it up and put power to the car to test the fuel system  today, put 10 gallons of e85 in it. it cost  me 3.45$ a gallon which is extremely high for e85 but worth it for the 105 octane rating. things went well once i fixed the massive fuel leak it had at the pressure  side of the fuel pump. apparently i never went further than test fit of the -an lines and forgot to flare one. a 9 psi 97 gph fuel pump will make one hell of a mess pretty quick. needless to say i managed to keep the car and my truck safe from fire.

i'm trying something different with the fuel system. instead of running a distribution block at the firewall to supply the fuel side of the nitrous, i bought a custom built fuel log and mounted it on a bracket i fabricated on one of the nitrous solenoid mounts on the intake manifold. i am hoping my fuel supply will be more than ample to run a -3 elbow and bring the fuel directly over into the solenoid and eliminate alot of unneccesary fuel line. the only unfortunate thing is i will probably have enough money in the an fittings from the rail to the carb to csncel out the price factor.

these are the quickfuel e85 conversion metering blocks. one of the many neccesary perts to convert a gasoline holley 4150 double pumper carburetor to ethanol. the biggest difference in these over a gasolind metering block is the giant emultion circuts used in them. i also had to change to larger needle and seats, 50cc accelerator pumps in the primary and secondary circuts, and re-jet it with a retarded jet size. #96 in the primary and #99 in the secondarys. also contemplating getting rid of the powervalves but havent made up my mind on that one yet.

the car killed a stock starter with its over 12:1 compression and i had to buy a 3 horse tilton starter. this thing is well worth its normaly rediculous price tag.

i am hoping i dont have any heat issues since i dont have a heatshield on the starter. i will have an issue with the battery cable bieng so close to the primarys and i have a brake line a little to close for comfort also.