Now here's the big bad 12" Dayton Titanic MK2 subwoofer.Stretching it out a bit, over 1.5 inches of excursion there.How NOT to paint a slot port.My recommendation: 2 coats of primer on each panel before assembly. I recommend the Zissners "BIN" shellac based primer sealer. Works EXCELLENT on sealing MDF, especially the endgrain. Sand till smooth with 400 grit inbetween both coats. Assemble (till it looks like the picture above). Put on a third coat is required (probably not).Now spray a coat of black. Careful not to put it on thick, it will run on the vertical panels VERY easily. Though gloss black doesn't look bad, it'll be much easier with flat black (the "Painters Choice" stuff HD has works well).Finish assembling, and spray another coat of black if you want (this should cover any glue that may ooze out of any joints).Anyhow, continuing with the box construction, here it is:Playing around with eggcrate foam to add some dampening (I ended up gluing the eggcrate to the slot port and top and bottom of the box, but taking the roll of it out).And finally here's some LEAP models of the sub in various enclosures.2cf @ 25hz:2cf @ 35hz:2.75cf @ 37hz:1.75cf @ 35hz FR:1.75cf @ 35hz Excursion and Group Delay:Sealed boxes, from 1-2cf:Overall sub construction comments:Solid and heavy. The 12 spoke MTX style cast frame looks like it could be used to hold my car up. What's good is that the frame is also quite thick where the screw holes are. No worries about bending a frame with T-nuts here!Good sized pole vent with a rounded rear exit, and great coil ventilation in general (thanks to windows cut into the basket between the spider and top plate/magnets).The spider is a large one, and it contains the woven tinsel leads. No more tinsel lead slap!!!The 5 way binding posts are great units because they hold the wire very well, even the stiff Carol 12g inwall-install wire, which has tinned ends on top of the stiffness of the actual wire.Integrating the sub's gasket into the outer edge of the sub was a good idea, not only because it makes the sub look a lot smoother from the front, but because it also gives the rubber a fairly large mating area with cabinet.The cone looks rugged, and is very stiff: obviously reinforced with kevlar QUITE well. The dustcap also seems to be quite rigid.What does the 12" Titanic MK2 sound like?In it's 2cf @ 30hz ported box with roughly 30 square inches of port area, great!It has excellent extension; 30hz comes through ear cleaningly loud in my Topaz.Because of the low tuning and fairly small box size, the group delay curve is also fairly linear, and it sounds like it.Kick drum kicks in Marilyn Manson's "The Beautiful people" are very clean, sharp, with almost no overhang. It also handles more complex bass lines in the song very well.Also other rock/metal, like Slayer, Static-X or Nirvava sounds great through it.Dance and trance also sound great on it, accurate and definetely capable of giving a decent massage, especially if it contains anything below 50hz.On rap, with stuff such as Nelly's "EI", it definetely gets the bassline across without flinching. 50 Cent's "Wanksta" bass drops come across very accurately.My overall impression of the 12" MK2, is that it makes a great car audio sub for those who like more deep bass extension, lack of compression and overall sound quality than the average car audio sub.Judging by the LEAP models courtesy of Paul H, a 1.75cf @ 35hz box would offer that extra "punch" that the larger and lower tuned box doesn't emphasize, and would probably handle 750 watts mechanically at anything above 30hz.For bassheads, a 3cf box tuned to 35hz would defientely kill some brain cells and turn some heads.I could also see it working great in a 1.25cf sealed box with 500 watts RMS behind it.Thermally, the sub handled every single one of the 350 or so watts RMS that my MTX 2150x could throw at it, with very little compression.It's rated for 300 watts RMS by MTX, but I've read various reports saying that it puts out up to 500watts RMS (bridged mono @ 4ohms).Even on a hot Canadian summer days (IE: 100f with humidity), it handled the power no problem.You won't be needing the warranty because of thermal reasons for anything under The only thing the sub could improve upon is suspension travel, ie; Xmech, Xsus, etc.It's not that it doesn't have enough; it's that the sub's long throw motor practically pushes it all the way out to the mechanical limit!A bit more suspension travel could let you throw even more power at it without worrying about bottoming it out at all.Recommended boxes:Sealed, pretty much any power level: 1.5-2.5cf.Vented, less than 250 watts: 2-3cf @ 25-40hz, greater than 300w: 1.5-2cf @ 30-35hz.Overall I'm quite happy with the sub, it does what it's meant to do with finesse and authority.