This is my 1990 Chrysler Daytona. It is a base model with zero options except the 3.0 Mitsubishi SOHC V6, and it has the 5 speed. In my opinion, this is probably the most reliable way of having a K-car based Dodge vehicle while still having some good power. Only 1800 were made this way in the base model. This car serves as a daily commuter car and my stereo project. We have a 2002 black Neon R/T that my wife drives. Starting at the front, this is the Premier DEH-P630 CD player. I usually use Alpine but I have been very happy with this unit's performanace and it's features. I made a plexiglass mounting ring for it and back-painted it red to match the car. Okay, this is the start of a series of pics on how I built the kick panels. Some of the pics flip flop from the drivers to passenger side but you get the idea. This is the drivers side. See the dead pedal? It stayed and I can still use it. This is the bare passenger kick panel with the body computer behind it. Setting up the kick panel baffle in the car. It was grafted right onto the factory kick panel for quicker and easier fabrication. The other way is to lay some fiberglass mat in the area and the use that as a base but I did it this way because it's quicker. It does make it harder to upholster in the end though. First, I bought a $10 laser pointer and set it flat on the baffle. It's the gold dot under the midrange hole. I could then pinpoint where the baffle was aimed. I chose to aim it at the coathook just behind the window. I find that there, or the rear top corner of the window is pretty much inline with the ear of, in this case, the driver. Once I found my spot, I hot glued the edge of the baffle plate to the plastic. This allowed me a bit of flexibility so I could keep it aimed. I had some scrap wood sticks ready to glue in behind the kick panel for supports. These are crucial to keep the angle while stretching the fleece over top. Here is the backside of the setup passenger kick. You can see the sticks in place. Also notice the baffle. It is made of 1/4" MDF and to get the edge 'ring' around it, I used strips of bristleboard. I used 3 layers, 1" wide which gives me depth to hold the grille, the mid and the aluminum trim place. They are held in place with OUTDOOR double-sided carpet tape. Works excellent. You could use wood as well but it's a little tricker as you have to setup a jig with your router. Of course, you could staple the bristleboard to the edge of the MDF but I couldn't find my stapler. A sharp razor knife is very useful here in making this border. So once you have it setup, you can stretch the fleece around it. I got some stretchy fleece from the fabric store for $5. It's self-explanatory. Stretch it around to the backside, pull it to get a nice shape without wrinkles and hot glue in place. Trim the excess with a knife if you wish. Then, mix up some polyester resin and hardner and brush it on. Make sure the resin soaks all the way through. You will be suprised at how much it can soak up. That taped-up piece there is a 'plug' that I made to make sure the fleece got stretched down a bit into the baffle cavity. This makes for a nicer edge. It had to be cut 1/16" smaller than the baffle though to accomodate the thickness of the fleece. A rabbeting bit for my router made it easy. Here the kick is rough sanded and filled with filler. I sanded down the resined fleece with 80 grit sanding paper. Get the resin bumps smooth. Don't just rough it up and expect to fill in the bumps with the filler. You'll just make more work for yourself. Having some dimples is okay but bumps are not. After sanding, I slapped the filler on. Here is the drivers kick after sanding the filler down with 100 grit. The filler fills in the low spots for a smoother final finish. The drivers kick which has been primered, sprayed with SEM texture paint, and then SEM Presidio vinyl/plastic dye/paint. Same with the grille piece in. Same with the mid installed behind the grille. The passenger side one painted. You can see the grille behind for the computer which I had to cut the bars out and another notch so the mid would fit properly. And it's ready to install. I painted the grill the same way but I think I will wrap it in grey grille cloth and I will put some mesh over the mid to protect it. I modified the grilles and finished them off nicely. 1/4" MDF front with bevelled edge and red painted 1/8" lexan on the back. Perforated Stainless steel was rabbetted in from the front side to make a nice finished look. The tweeter hole was enlarged as well so it fit properly over it. Here the drivers kick is in the car. I routered an aluminum piece the same size as the grille to neatly flush the mid in and provide a baffle for the tweet. The mid hole also lines up perfectly with the mid for a nice finish. A better pic with the grille installed. Here is the passenger kick with better lighting. I have to repaint my door grille flat black again I know. This is an ultra-crappy pic of my Rockford Power 4" mid and the FNQ tweeter. Notice the monster magnet on that 4". It's why I had to notch the rear of the kick panels and then seal them back up. Moving a little further back, I mounted the fuseblock in the rear drivers side speaker area. I used a piece of 1/4" MDF, with a 1/2" MDF ring behind for some more depth, rounded the edges and mounted the fuse block on aluminum-painted plexiglass. The factory speaker grill covers it all. So here we go with the amp rack and sub baffle. It is a common false floor setup and this is the spare tire well I am working with. Nice D shape and about 2.8 cubic feet. I wish I took more during the intial planning and build-up but this is where I am going to have to start. This is a shot of the back after I got the wood frame and 3/4" MDF floor built, the fabric stretched and resined, sanded and filled with filler. You can see the rectangular opening for the amps and the sub hole with the 4" port hole beside it. A fiberglass tub is underneath the screws to the wood floor. Here is a pic of inside the sub through, looking through the sub hole. 3 layers of 1.5 oz. fiberglass mat and in between the 2nd and 3rd layers I sandwiched 3x3 squares of sound deadning material. Here is what the tub looks like and the underside of the floor with the whole thing tilted up and looking from the passenger seat. You can see that the cheapo masking tape I used didn't completely come off the tub. Good thing it isn't visible. Here is the entire assembly on my tiny little work table. Remember, I built most of this system with a tiny table, jigsaw, 9.6V cordless drill and a bit set. Only later did I get my router, power drill and made a big work table. Anyway, I have the trim panels attached and it's primered. This is the starting of the lid. I just got my router and am using straight pieces of MDF to guide the router for nice straight cuts in the amplifier opening. The lid on the rack. I also now have a Rams head cut out for the subwoofer to play though, just like the Avenger had in the trunk floor. If fact, I used the actual trunk floor piece from the Avenger as my router guide. Here is the rack installed in the car after being painted. After moving into a new condo, I built myself a 72x30 work table out of 1/2" plywood, 1/4" MDF for a replaceable surface and some table legs from Revy. Cost was $70 and 3 hours of my time. I also made a section in the middle to hold my router and become a router table which I LOVE having. And here is the finished amp rack, except for the lid. You can see the two Concept CCA-752 amps which are mounted on a piece of aluminum and the Alpine 6015CX sub. This was their reference sub from the mid-90s and is a beautifully made sub by Mcauley that Alpine used. Another angle. This is a close-up showing the RCA cables I made. Notice the custom-made twisted pair with red and black wire that is shielded with clear plastic tubing. Expensive looks for a fraction of the cost! This is the MB Quart Musicomp passive crossovers that serve the 3-way set up front. Possibly the highest quality passive setup I've seen from a manufacturer. They are very pricey which is why I bought them off Ebay. The 'heart' of the system (heart, pumping. Okay, that's cheezy) This is the Alpine 6015CX 15" subwoofer. These succeeded the original 6015 'reference' Alpine subwoofers which were made by Gauss. These were made by McCauley for Alpine in the early-90s and are an excellent sub. The lid isn't done yet, but gives an idea of what it will look like. Here is a wiring close-up on the amps. Notice the piece of aluminum that I fit into my amp rack which matches the amps nicely. It's a little dirty though. Vacuum! Another shot of the wiring.