After the deadener was layed, wiring was next. All wires were covered in techflex, and were anchored with color coded zip ties and zip tie anchors every six inches or less. At the speakers, female spade plugs were soldered onto the ends of the wire, then the entire plug and wire were covered with color coded heatshrink. Stinger 16 gauge speaker wire was used throughout the vehicle. I chose this for its flexibility, as well as its shape. One wire is round, and the other is square. This helps make it keep positive and negative separate when running the wire. At the amps and distro blocks, wires were labeled to further aid in ease of install. The labels were then covered in clear heatshrink to protect them for future use.

Wires run alongside the car. Green is Ai-Net, orange is fiber optic, and the black is the 701 controller cable:

At one point, the power wire passes through a seat support on its path to the trunk. Grommets were installed on either side to protect the wire from shorting out in the future:

Here is a set of the speaker wires for one of the door speakers. Note how the heatshrink totally covers the metal ends. This helps prevent against a possible short while in the door, as well as aids in easy identification of polarity on the speaker itself:

Wires labeled before being routed through the amp rack into the amps. Again, this helps make for a quick and easy hookup when the time comes:

Excess data and speaker wires coiled up and anchored under the back seat. Since ai-net, fiber optic, and the 701 control cable can't be easily cut to length, all excess was coiled up under the seat. The speaker wires were cut to allow them to reach the back of the trunk if needed. This install left them near the beginning, so the extra was also coiled up using color coded zip ties.

1. Intro Page
2. Deadening Install
3. Wiring Install You are here
4. Deck Install
5. Tweeter Install
6. Mid Install
7. Amp Rack/IB Wall