SUMMARY ON THE SWAP

Over all the swap is a lot more work then your normal restore and there are a lot of pitfalls for the unknowing. I was told you need to replace the 5/16 fuel line for 3/8 to stop vapor lock with the V8 BUT the early V8 model Mustangs came out with 5/16 fuel lines....your choice. You need to remove the clutch pedal and change the brake one to suit your particular application (in my case powered disc brakes), don't hide the clutch pedal under the carpet like I have seen a few times before. Front coils not strong enough, change to V8 ones, I used 620lb coils from California Mustang. Again I was informed you need to change all of the front steering components. Unless it is in poor shape the 67 steering is ok to use, the part numbers for the 6 and the V8's are the SAME. Always replace all rubber hoses and seals and clamps. I heard overheating was a problem as well but even with a bored out 302 and 3 core radiator and no fan shroud(tempory) I have no overheating problem what so ever but change your fan to a 6 blade, the six 4 blade is a bit dinky. Engine to fire wall wiring loom needs to be changed to V8, others ok depending on their condition. Engine mounts need to change and frame mount brackets as well. The 67 has an odd-ball mount for that year and you may find the bolt hole out of align by an 1/4"", use 66 or 68 mounts so I been told but after looking up part no's they appear to be the same so I elongated the holes out a bit until the bolts slid in. Radiator needs changing of cause (I used a 3 core off set from NPD). If you got a single stage brake master cylinder than save your self and your love ones and install a duel master cylinder with a power booster if possible,...with the extra weight of the V8 you will be glad you did and don't forget the proportional valve while you at it even tho I am sure the 67 proportional will work. The 6 cylinder 8(7 3/4?) inch rear end will handle the V8 for a little while but not long, swap it for a 8 or 9 inch.A 28 or 31 spline axles will work, again your choice. Drive shaft needs to change for sure, too small, too weak and use good universals( I went with Spicer ones). Speedo will work but replace the drive cog on end for correct calibration depending on gear ratios and tire size(ask your nearest tranny shop). Transmission mount can be reused but would suggest at least replace with a new one.Auto 'T' shifter will mount in the same hole as the stick shift(the wiring is even there for the nautral safty switch). You will also need to replace the accelerator pedal rod also because the shape and length is wrong and no kick down hook up.

There is probadly more and if I think of them I will add as I go. "Jane" is still a work in progress with interior to finish off and the body to start.I have driven the car twelve miles since rebuild to go to exhaust shop and do the alignment(I am a mechanic in a tire shop).It drove very nice with no squeaks and rattles, handled nice and the exhaust sounded really really nice.It is still not plated and insured and jumping at the bit for winter to end. Hope this has been of some help to any one wishing to do the same type of restore. Don't forget to vote thank you.