I need to use a hydraulic clutch to work with the 06 Mustang GT 5-speed (Saleen take-out with 50 miles). I am also using vacuum power brakes with an 89 Mustang booster. Aftermarket clutch master cylinders go through the firewall and hit the booster. So I crawled under the dash of my friend's 06 GT and took some measurements and pictures. I bought a Ford master and slave cylinder (new in box on ebay for $20, dealer wanted $175) and fabricated the pedal assembly. I bought Mustang Steve's plans and brake pedal pin.

I did have to make some slight modifications to the orignal design which are not reflected in the pictures below. See 'Changes' below.

Details of pedal assembly. Note that the master cylinder is for a 2005-2008 Mustang GT. It may not work with any other slave cylinders. Please note that this is 'Ozarks Engineering' and no guarantees are made about how well this will work. You're on you own - this is just for some ideas.

The backplate is 11 guage steel. It is actually taller than necessary. The original pedal assembly is mounted to it after being modified according to Mustang Steve's plans (contact him for his plan and pin kit - www.mustangsteve.com. He deserves your $15).

The master cylinder is mounted on a piece of 3/4" rectangular tubing. It is braced with a piece of 3/4" angle steel. A nut is welded to the brace to provide a stop for the clutch pedal.

The cylinder is mounted pretty far forward to allow room for the line to come out of the back and make a big loop. If you used an angle connector or a tighter bend, the cylinder could be moved back, making a more compact unit.

A pull plate is used to connect the pedal to the cylinder. The cylinder has an internal pivot allowing the plunger to move around. It does this in the 06 GT as well, since you can't make a pedal on a pivot move in a horizontal line (always a little arc in the travel). I used a steel standoff to maintain the proper space between the cylinder and the pull plate. The pull plate can swivel on the pedal as well (that's why I used self-locking nuts and grade 8 bolts). I put nylon bushings in the piston loop. I may put bushings (nylon or maybe brass) in the pedal where the bolt goes through (make sure you use a bolt with a non-threaded shank in the pedal hole to reduce wear).

The pull plate connects to the pedal 3 1/4" from the pedal pivot centerline. This allows as close to a horizontal pull on the cylinder as possible.

Here is a picture of the pedals and pull plate.

I used Mustang Steve's plans and pin for mounting the pedal to an 89 Mustang booster.

I drilled the backplate for the booster per Steve's plans (with tweaking where necessary).

I designed this so the plunger would have 1 1/4" of travel, the same as in the 06 GT. Here are some pics in the 06 for reference.

Changes:

I bought the Ford clutch hose ($70 from the dealer) since Ford apparently uses special fittings and all the hydraulic and brake guys I took my stuff to for lines just scratched their heads.  I couldn't get the line routed and cut to length, so I removed the fittings and went to the local brake supply house and they recommended 3/16" air brake line. The head parts guy said he had used it on his cars with hydraulic clutches and the nylon line is brake fluid safe. If I were doing it over, I would go to the salvage yard and get a line from an 05+ Mustang and use the fittings from it with the new hose (and save about $65!).

NOTE:  I really didn't need to do the following since I didn't end up using the Ford line.  The original measurements should work fine, though this does make it a little more compact.  (Though you will need to cut the 1" sqare hole, or drill a 1/2" hole in the back plate for the line to pass through).

Anyway, I moved the master cylinder 1" closer to the firewall and cut a 1" square hole through my backing plate and firewall (directly behind the master cylinder). I put the line inside 5/16" fuel line to protect it as it ran around the brake booster and through the firewall.  The line feeds directly out of the back of the master, through the hole in the backing plate and firewall, turns down between the firewall and the brake booster, routes under the booster and go to the transmission.

I also shortened the pull plate by 1" since the master was moved back 1". This actually makes for better geometry - less arc in the travel.

A friend (Jeremy) added a gusset below the rectangular tubing that holds the master and welded the short brace at the back of the tubing to the pedal assembly.  He also made a removable brace that ties the front of the tubing to the pedal assembly.  There was too much flex when pressing the pedal and I was afraid it would eventually break (which it would have).  Now no flex at all.  No pics yet.

Here's the 05-08 GT slave cylinder. It fits over the input shaft of the transmission and has an integrated throwout bearing.