The system now had to be connected to the Torana airbox, I hunted down a sheet or plastic from a Air con parts supplier known in the industry as ABS plastic, It's around 3mm thick and bends very eazy with a little bit of heat and stays there very ridged, I made a air box adaptor that bolts to the right of the evaporator around 4 inches deep and the end cleared the side of the torana airbox by around 10mm. I then used a 2 1/2 inch hole saw and cut 3 holes at the top of the adaptor box and insurted 3x 2 1/2 inch felexable ducts all in a row. I Also cut out 2x 2 1/4 holes in the adaptor box at the rear closest to the fire wall to run the flex pipes to the upper side dash vents.The air vent holes in the fire wall on both sides where blocked off so no outside air would enter the cabin. The only downside here is that the upper dash vents need to be turned around to block off air flow when useing the heater as the air to these vents comes through before the torana heater box, but I turn the vents towards the side windows to keep them from foging up. Now it's time to do the mod on the torrie air box, I cut a large hole the width of the box at the top close to where it bolts to the rear of the fire wall and about 3 1/2 inch deep and made a plastic plate with 3x 2 1/2 inch holes side by side for the flex hoses and afixed it over the cutout and sealed up any gaps with selastic, I also cut about 3 inches off the flap that covers the heater element so when I move the original dash control to heat it lifts and does't cover up the air entering the air box from the 3 flexable hoses, now all the air is forced through the heater element for the hotest setting or I can adjust the control leaver to control the amount of air flow over the element to produce warm air. The other original control leaver still controls the air direction to floor,vents and demister. The original fire wall inlet to the air box must also be blocked off so no air is lost into the now redundent engine side inlet duct. If I had to do this mod again I would use 2 1/4 inch flexable duct hoses through out as it's a but tight on top of the torana air box when bolted up into position. I'm sorry now I didn't take more photo's of the air box adaptor but you can see parts of it to give some idea of the set up in the above photo, and I'm not going to strip it out now just for a couple of shots.To control the coolant flow through the heater I used a vacuum style heater tap to turn it off and on, the vacuum is controlled by a toyota electrical solonid that normally would control the engine idle up solonid, and fitted a VP commodore vacuum tank resivoir mounted under the the left hand inner guard, the system didn't work very well untill I fitted this tank as when I give the engine full throttle it caused low vacuum and let the tap open, (not good when in A/C mode) so be sure to fit the tank for extra vacuum supply or just use a cable operated type, I went the vacuum way due to looks inside no extra cables to look at. I fitted a small A/C push button in the corner of the control panel and use the original fan switch to control speeds 1 and 2 with a extra rocker switch mounted in the centre console when I want high speed 4 setting, the second rocker switch controles the heater, I only use this speed for about 5 min then turn it back to 1 or 2 as it get very cold. I didn't hook up speed 3 as it realy isn't needed, it realy works that good on a 40 deg day that I can wear a beenie.To get the most out of my Air conditioner I fitted good carpet underlay heat shields over the exhaust extractors near the floor and fire wall and the whole shell was stone garded inside and out for heat & noise and tinted window.