Vehicle Owner

Member ID: N3ELZ

Location: Kennett Square, PA

Vehicle Info

2002 Ford Ranger

Bragging Rights

  • 1/4 Mile0 sec @ -1 mph
  • 0-6010.7sec
  • Top Speed-1mph
  • HP180
  • Weight3900lbs

Major Upgrades

  • turbo
  • nitrous
  • bore increase
  • port and polish
  • supercharger
  • extrude honed
  • stroke increase
  • engine swap

Modifications

Performance Parts

Interior

Exterior Styling

Car Audio & Video

  • Bazooka Subwoofers 
  • Kenwood Video 
  • Jensen Speakers 
  • Jensen Tweeters 

Ratings

    • Currently 3.9/5 Stars.
    • Currently 3.9/5 Stars.

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Last updated: Sep 04, 2009

Hits: 231,761

John’s Ford Ranger
“Edge”

  • Currently 3.9147540983606 /5 Stars.
24 guestbook comments

General Index
[1 - Overview] [2 - My wreck!] [7 - Crazy Robin!] [9 - Candy's Ranger] [10 - Keypad entry system]

Meets and Outings
[11 - Centralia adventure Part I] [21 - Centralia adventure Part II]

How-To Articles
[3 - Overhead Console Install] [4 - Overhead Console Wiring] [5 - MAF mod] [6 - LED switch mod] [8 - Homebrew Remote Bass Control] [12 - Headlight/4x4 Switch LED Mod] [13 - General LED tutorial] [14 - EATC install how-to (pages 14-19)] [20 - IAT Resistor Mod (older engines only)] [22 - Automatic Power Windows] [23 - Cruise Control Pod LED's]

Auto Up and Down Function from Taurus Modules

Basically, one can take the small, stand-alone control modules from an older Taurus (early 90's) and use them to add automatic up to the drivers side window, and both automatic up and down to the passengers side window. This how-to is primarily for 2001+ Rangers. Older Rangers without the factory installed auto down on the drivers side will require wiring more like the passengers side.

For each subtopic below, you need 1 of the auto modules from a Taurus, Sable, or CrownVic of the late eighties or early 90's. Sorry but I don't remember which years had it and which did not! But the ones that have it have "Auto" on the drivers power window switch, and the module is located in the door itself, mounted on the inner metal panel, not far from the switches. You have to remove the door trim to get to it.

N3ELZ's 2002 Ford RangerHere's what a module looks like. They come in both blue and black but are electrically identical. All the blue ones have come out of CrownVic's or Lincolns, and all the black ones from Taurus and Sables. Why Ford made different part numbers is beyond me since both contain EXACTLY the same circuit right down to the individual capacitors, resistors, etc. Note that you want to get a little of the harness that attaches to it, at least 6" or so and moer is better.
N3ELZ's 2002 Ford RangerN3ELZ's 2002 Ford Ranger

Auto down on passenger side (pioneered by RockingRobin69 from Gen-Edge and refined by yours truly)

N3ELZ's 2002 Ford RangerFirst, here's what you see when you take the inner door panel off.

1. Cut the RD/YE (red with yellow stripe) wire going to the switch.

2. Connect the wire from terminal 1 (red wire if you have the harness piece) to the RD/YE wire going to the motor (the piece you cut that doesn't go to the switch).

N3ELZ's 2002 Ford Ranger3. Connect the WH/BK wire (terminal 2) to the RD/YE wire going to the switch. The picture shows what you'll have at this point. The orange taped harness piece is the bit that came attached to the auto down module you salvaged or bought.

4. Use a tap to connect the YE/GN wire (terminal 3) to the BL/BK wire.

5. Use a tap to connect the YE wire (terminal 4) to the YE/RD wire.

6. Use a tap to connect the BK wire (terminal 5) to the WH/YE wire. When you get all the terminations done, it looks about like the pictures below. To the right you can see the module plugge in, the wiring tucked away, and the module has been stuck to the door liner material with double sided tape. Note that you must angle the base of the module down so condensation does not accumulate in it. It needs to drain when required -- it's gets pretty moist inside the doors sometimes.
N3ELZ's 2002 Ford RangerN3ELZ's 2002 Ford Ranger

Okay, that will give you auto down on the passenger side. For auto up on the passenger side, you need ANOTHER module connected as follows.

Auto up on passenger side

1. Cut the YE/RD wire going to the switch.

2. Connect the wire from terminal 1 (red wire if you have the harness piece) to the YE/RD wire going to the motor (the piece you cut that doesn't go to the switch).

3. Connect the WH/BK wire (terminal 2) to the YE/RD wire going to the switch.

4. Use a tap to connect the YE/GN wire (terminal 3) to the BL/BK wire.

5. Use a tap to connect the YE wire (terminal 4) to the RD/YE wire.

6. Use a tap to connect the BK wire (terminal 5) to the WH/YE wire. When you get this done, you have a pretty good "rat's nest" going! Below are some pictures. The other module has also been put in the door up over the speaker, although you can only see one in the picture. You actually do need to remove the whole door inner panel and not just the trim piece for this one. Below is the mess to the left, and tucked away to the right.
N3ELZ's 2002 Ford RangerN3ELZ's 2002 Ford Ranger

Note that this is nearly identical to the previous procedure, except that you cut the other motor wire this time, and the terminal 4 wire goes to the wire you cut for auto down.

Auto up on the drivers side is a little wierder, but do-able. You have to access the harness going to the motor itself and not just the switch.

Auto up on drivers side

N3ELZ's 2002 Ford Ranger1. Cut the WH/BK wire going to the motor in the motor harness, not at the switch. You also need to remove the entire inner door panel and peel back the liner to find this connector as shown to the right. This is the motor connector and you can see the wire you must cut and splice to.

2. Connect the wire from terminal 1 (red wire if you have the harness piece) to the WH/BK wire going to the motor.

3. Connect the WH/BK wire (terminal 2) to the WH/BK wire from the wiring harness.

4. Use a tap to connect the YE/GN wire (terminal 3) to the BL/BK wire on the SWITCH.

5. Use a tap to connect the YE wire (terminal 4) to the RD wire on the MOTOR HARNESS.

6. Use a tap to connect the BK wire (terminal 5) to the TN/LB wire on the SWITCH.

Guestbook

Displaying entries 1-5 of 24

1997ranger  

Posted by: 1997ranger

09/16/2009 09:29PM

man info and pic were very helpful i will have to check it out again i am currently in the process of sas'ing my 2wd 97 ranger that i recently totaled but could part with being it was my first truck(i know what you mean by impressing the 4wd) it always had the plan to be a trail rig. now you got me interested in that gauge mod thanks for the time and work it was very helpful and interesting

OneTrueEClipse  

Posted by: OneTrueEClipse

09/04/2009 01:41PM

I simply love this truck... Check out my 4x4 ranger sometime

pomonabill220  

Posted by: pomonabill220

08/28/2009 01:49PM

NOTE!!! The Ford diagram for the 98-01 connectors is incorrect!!! C297 (they say black) is really grey, and C298 (they say white) is really black!!! The grey connector C297, fits closest to the center of the rear of the head unit (controller), and pin 1 is on the bottom row, left side (closest to the vacuum ports, or center of the rear). At least that is the color scheme that I have and is also shown in the pictures of the controller in this how-to. Take a close look! The diagrams from Ford are looking INTO the SOCKETS of the connector (picture yourself as the PINS of the conroller looking towards the diagram).

sport-track_08  

Posted by: sport-track_08

08/28/2009 08:12AM

what did u do to prevent hydro lock again ?

Y2K_TJ  

Posted by: Y2K_TJ

08/17/2009 10:23AM

Sweet ranger! The SAS swap is sick, 5 Stars! Check out my jeep

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Vehicle Owner

Member ID: N3ELZ

Location: Kennett Square, PA