Modifications
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SAS and 4x4 conversion complete! See latest updates (4/23/2008) at the bottom of page 25 for the story.
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I've uploaded a bunch of videos to the site here. My truck jumping (the video the still below is from) and almost making it across a deep pond. Keep in mind I'm 2WD before you judge the attempt, lol. Also added other successful crossings of that pond, and someone who hydrolocked their engine crossing after I did, some hill climbing, and working on getting a friend unstuck.
Here's a link to the video page: Some offroading videos from my trips
Sorry, had a not so great year in 2007 in many ways and got very down. Let my health get bad again and work worries pile up. I really let things go. However, I got things back in control and finally started the SAS in August of this year (2007).
So the following material is more historical as the truck is changing rapidly.
Some relatively recent pics, before the SAS conversion:
And some "action shots" from recent meets (the first one is a capture from the jumping video linked above). In the second picture the water is more than 3 feet deep in the deepest spot -- and I made it to the other side (but not out of the water, ha ha!) -- this is a still from the other side of where the water crossing video linked above was shot. You can see the people with video cameras on the far side in the still:
General Index
[1 - Overview] [2 - My wreck!] [7 - Crazy Robin!] [9 - Candy's Ranger] [10 - Keypad entry system] [25 - SAS progress page]
Meets and Outings
[11 - Centralia adventure Part I] [21 - Centralia adventure Part II]
How-To Articles
[3 - Overhead Console Install] [4 - Overhead Console Wiring] [5 - MAF mod] [6 - LED switch mod] [8 - Homebrew Remote Bass Control] [12 - Headlight/4x4 Switch LED Mod] [13 - General LED tutorial] [14 - EATC install how-to (pages 14-19)] [20 - IAT Resistor Mod (older engines only)] [22 - Automatic Power Windows] [23 - Cruise Control Pod LED's] [24 - Inexpensive Custom Dashboard Illumination Color Change]
NEWS:
*** BIGGEST NEWS IF THE SAS IN PROGRESS. PAGE 25 WILL DOCUMENT IT ***
* I'm not keeping up the meet pages. Years have gone by and I haven't finished them. Guess I'm just not so motivated by that. I post on most meets on the forum I mentioned at the top of this page.
A SAS CONVERSION IS IN THE WORKS! Yes, I have a 1979 F-150 Dana 44 "straight" or "solid" axle in pretty good condition and I'm rebuilding it. I'll use the F-150 suspension so I'll be coil and radius arm instead of leafs as is so often done. Scheduled for spring, 2007. Also I have another 4x4 transmission to get the proper output shaft from, and two transfer cases. I'm almost ready. Finally, my beloved beast will be a 4x4!
My truck more or less as received (top left below) and more recently, but before additional lift and the 35's ( top right - complete with Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels, Delta toolbox, new rocksliders, and stone guard coating on rockers). I'm not into "dramatic" looks; but there's more to the changes to this truck than you might see at first. Read on for the many mods that have been done to this truck.
And here it is after getting a little dirty in Wharton State Forest when I was testing the new lift and the 35's.
Truck Overview
Hey, all! This is John, "N3ELZ". I really love my 2002 Ford Ranger Edge and I've been having a blast customizing it.
I know this may bother some of you with more concern for street looks, but I removed the front valance. It was just getting hung up offroad WAY too much. I added a couple of inexpensive fog lights to make up for the loss of the factory ones. Also, note the clear corners, and the Line-X'd tow hooks. My 2WD truck didn't come with hooks and they are standard Ranger tow hooks, sprayed with Line-X bedliner material. In this picture as well as some others, you can see I've moved the driving lights down onto the bumper. More on that later. You'll see a lot of variations on my truck in pictures on this site and the picture to the right is NOT the current appearance. This pic represents a 1" to 2" torsion bar lift. Don't go too high or you'll have too little down travel and a rough ride, as well as negative camber and tire wear (though I ended up raising mine pretty good).
I broke one of the first set of clear corners so they weren't on the truck for awhile -- but now they're back and with a modification. The backing piece has been painted silver/chrome to match the headlights silver and clear look. Much better blending!
The problem with this mod is that you have to take the corner lamp apart. My early attempts to do this resulted in one warped and subsequently broken lens. So I had to get another set of used clears and try again. This time I took the advice of several folks and BOILED the corner to soften the glue and separate the lens and it worked. I used the original backing plates from my amber corners and painted them because they are better made and silvered.
I removed the Pro-Comp 55w lights I originally mounted on the bumper (just drilled holes in the bumper -- no brackets) and put 2 cheap Rally 100 watt lights on as shown in the other pics above and they are much better. I got them for $20 for the PAIR at "Big Lots" and for what they cost they are great. I took them out night offroading just recently and what a difference! The reason this is not a problem for the drivetrain is that I have extended both the rear axle and automatic transmission breather tubes up into the engine compartment. I used a piece of abrasion resistant heavy 1/4" I.D. hose from the rear axle, along the inside of the frame rail, and up into the engine compartment. The transmission has a 1/2" I.D. piece of tubing pushed over the upper transmission vent after removing the dust cap, then a 1/4" piece is pushed inside that and run up to the same spot. All are secured with clamps and bent over into a "reverse trap" in the engine bay to minimize splash entry into the vents. See further down the page for pictures on how to do this.
And here's my favorite mod: keypad keyless entry! See page 10 for a bit more detail on this mod. Basically, I figured out how to adapt the older keyless entry control units from early 1990's Fords to our systems. This was a joint effort between "buckgnarly" (Carl) and myself.
Here's a summary of my truck:
As Delivered: White '02 4x2 Edge 2-dr supercab, 3.0L auto, 4.10 limited slip, aluminum wheels, 6 CD changer, cruise, tilt, keyless entry, power windows/locks/mirrors, sliding rear window, tinted rear windows, Duraliner bedliner.
Mods Added: Modified MAF (43% more flow area), Amsoil synthetic lube (engine/tranny/rear), Dynomax 17315 cat-back, TS-122 Amsoil air filter, airbox (enhanced airflow), bumper (fixes factory front bumper alignment problem) mods, throttle shaft half-shaft mod (increases air flow), 1" torsion bar , 31x10.5R15 Cooper Discoverer S/T tires on 15x8 Mickey Thompson Classic II's, James Duff short traction bars, Rancho RSX shocks, Hidden Hitch round class III hitch, 4 Jensen XS1683 triaxials, Bazooka EL8A-HP sub, Kenwood TS-430S HF transceiver on RAM mounts, Yaesu FT-1500M VHF transceiver, Byonics APRS tracker, Garmin eMap GPS, Mighty Mouse GPS antenna, black vhf roof antenna, black painted stock antenna, rear fender ball mounts (one on each side) for black Hamstick antennas and 4' K40 Flex CB antenna, Maxon MCB-30 CB transceiver, full red/blue dash light conversion, Explorer overhead console with blue display, Explorer auto-dimming mirror and auto headlights, fully functional Explorer Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC), modified clear corners, custom black and silver Ford ovals on grille and tailgate, Line-X'd front tow hooks, all windows now auto up and down using modules from a '92 Taurus, XLT dome light with map lights, XLT high 3rd brake light with cargo lamps, keypad keyless entry system with color matched keypad, Procomp 4x6 driving lights, custom 1/8" hard stainless skid plate, polished aluminum Delta toolbox in bed, 48" all cast Hi-Lift jack mounted on locking mount in bed (currently in the new aluminum toolbox), tow straps, 3/8" 6x19 galvanized wire rope extensions, various size shackles, rear receiver mounted tow hook, Ranger-Forums sticker, Generation-Edge site sticker, RangerEdge Truck of the Month stickers (August 2003), meet stickers.
Notes on performance mods
1. "Opened" up air box
2. Amsoil reticulated foam high flow filter
3. Cut away MAF with 43% more cross-sectional area
4. Half-shafted throttle shaft, and ground throttle stop
5. Dynomax cat-back high flow exhaust
I actually had my truck weighed and it came out at 3660 with a full tank of gas, without me in it. I'm about 230 dressed so I used 3900 as the weight to calculate peak HP from the 0-60 times. That's why the numbers have changed. The HP cited is "flywheel" estimated HP and not "rear wheel" HP.
Some mod details (note: some pics are much older shots)
I did a bunch of changes to the stock interior dash and added an overhead console from a Mercury Mountaineer. To the left is a slightly older night picture before I added the EATC, but it shows the overhead console at the upper right of it. Below left is the interior by night showing the new EATC unit replacing the stock heater controls. I have basically a red/blue scheme with a few other color highlights -- and the radio's still green because it's hard to change. These are the best pictures I could get, but they don't do justice to it. Here's an article on Generation-Edge.com about how I did the gauges and heater controls. Below and to the right is the overhead console as it looks by day. The overhead console installation is tricky, but not so much so that you shouldn't attempt it. I have some notes on the console installation the way I did it which does not involve removing the headline. Mounting and wiring notes are on pages 3 and 4 here. Another way of mounting the console can be found here. The other way involves removing the headliner, which I did not want to do.
Communicatons and Navigation
I have a GPS and some ham radio gear that allows me not only to know my position but to transmit it for relay to special internet servers. Here's the GPS and the "TinyTrak II" radio modem for APRS ("Automatic Position Reporting System"). Want to see where my truck is right now? Click here. I'm a "ham radio" operator and my call is N3ELZ. Here's some views of the radio layout. To the left, under the dash, is the Yaesu FT-1500M 50 watt VHF transceiver which is used mainly for position reporting. Right of that is the Garmin eMap GPS, and furthur right the Byonics TinyTrak II APRS radio modem, which is hidden by the Maxon MCB-30 CB radio at the right. Foreground is the Kenwood TS-430S 100 watt HF transceiver used for long distance contact work -- I routinely work most all of Europe and western Russia, and anywhere in the US. However, with the sunspot cycle dropping now, it's getting harder! Barely visible at the extreme top to the right is the remote GPS antenna which lets the GPS be mounted down low. There are now two stainless steel ball mounts, one on each rear fender, to mount CB (passenger side) and ham radio (drivers side) antennas. I have a quick disconnect on the ham antenna and usually remove it for offroading.
Underbody protection
Here is the stainless steel skidplate I used to have. Ford makes this plate, and a carbon steel one that is heavier. I mainly wanted protection for the tranny cooler lines, steering rack, radiator hose, etc. I didn't need to be able to land on rocks (or so I thought), just keep kicked up sticks and what not from tearing lines. It goes on with 6 5/16" x 3/4" hex head sheet metal screws, flat washer and split lockwasher. You can see how polished it is when it's new by the reflections in the bottom of it. Nice but the two pictures below show what I've done to it over time -- it's really not strong enough if you really push it.
Skid plate update: Here's the new skidplate. To the right is the plate from the front. It's a very hard 1/8" stainless my welder friends claim is as strong as 1/4" carbon steel. It's certainly great looking to my eye. How it holds up we'll see but it's much thicker than the old "sheet metal" one I had. This is more "plate" than "sheet", if you know what I mean. Below you can see it from the sides. I tapped the frame holes for 3/8-16 bolts and that's how it's mounted. It's not secured at the front top edge to allow some flex with the tow hooks acting as "bump stops".
To the left below, a clean picture of the truck with bars and stone gaurd. To the right, I am testing the new slider bars made by Tom Barcia (TBarCya). I call them "T-Bars". This picture is from the dirt barriers at the entrance to the closed section of highway 61 on the north side of Centralia, PA.
Below left, you can see the bars on the side of the truck (which is quite dirty here) a little closer, and to the right another shot from the same time. These shots were from where I was winched up over the top of a hill my 4x2 couldn't climb all the way (but the 4x4's I was with made it). In all cases, the bars were supporting the truck and kept the rocker panels completely off the mound. The bars are made of 1/8" wall square tubing, are welded construction overall and attach directly to the trucks frame with grade 8 hardware. Notice also both above and below the stone guard coating on the rockers and flares. It is Martin Saynour #4004 "StoneGuard" and it's great stuff. I applied it myself to cover past damage and minimize future impacts.
Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ Tires
I've gone through several types of tires. I've use both 31" and 35" Cooper S/T's, 35" BFG AT's, and 35" General Grabber MT's.
But I'm really enthusiastic about these new Mickey Thompsons. They have mud tread with siping and great sidewall "sidebiters". Here's some views of the tire.
Note that it has large lugs and deep tread (19/32") well as siping. Unlike some mud tires, they hold quite well in wet weather on pavement. Surprisingly so. Moise level is good but I only have 3000 miles on them. Too early to tell how they'll be long term, but they are excellent performers both on and off road for the driving I do. I have no idea what their performance on rocks is -- I generally don't do rocks with this truck.
If you look between the treads as then go down the sidewall, you will see little ridges in the valley. These are called "stone kickers" and they help keep stones from lodging. The tread grooves are all v-shaped, narrower towards the bottom, so mud just falls out easily and the self clean well.
Traction bars
I've also added James Duff short traction bars (available from www.jamesduff.com). They are INCREDIBLE and surprisingly effective at eliminating axle "wrap" and "hop". Much more stable traction offroad, and much better on road traction as well, especially in the rain when you accelerate. You have to do some drilling, cutting or grinding of the big bracket, and head scratching to install them on a late Ranger (they are designed for pre-1998 Rangers) but they do work GREAT. Not shown here are the Rancho RSX shocks. This "self adjusting" shock is lifetime guaranteed and they are wonderful. Handling is much improved without any great increase in roughness. They do seem a bit stiff for the back end on the street though and cause some bounce -- but I still like them better than the factory shocks.
Daystar 61003 lifting shackles
Actually, these are DROP shackles for a late full size Chevy pickup -- but they raise a Ranger about an inch more and they fit perfectly. These are greaseable, although you can't see the grease fitting for these, which is in the top where the shackle attaches to the frame. To the left below is the shackle installed, and to the right you can see one of the 2 degree pinion angle correcting shims I added. They install between the lifting block and the leaf spring. They are retained by the center bolt of the leaf spring and are a pain in the butt to install. However they got rid of mild driveline vibration the shackles caused.
The pictures below show the trucks new ride height in the top row, and the resulting rear flex, which is MUCH better than stock, in the bottom row. I did have to the front bars some more to bring the truck back to "level" more or less. So the front is higher also. It's only about an inch more lift, but the flex increase is 2 to 3 inches -- substantial.
Axle vent extensions
I mentioned that I would show you more on the axle and transmission vent tubes and here it is. Below left shows the connection to the axle on the drivers side, where you should have a short tube now. This is 1/4" I.D. abrasion resistant (hard surface) tubing. You must leave a loop above the axle for articulation -- but position it carefully so as not to catch or bind it in the suspension. To the right shows the larger 1/2" I.D. rubber hose that goes up to the top of the transmission. On 4x2 automatics, there is a vent with a loosely fitted cap to keep dirt out. Remove the sheet metal cap and slide the 1/2" hose over the vent and secure with a small hose clamp. You only need about a 2 foot long piece. The other end gets another 1/4" hose piece slid well into it and secured with another clamp.
Below left you can see the tranmission hose junction. Notice that both hoses (the one from the axle is just above the transmission hose) have been "snapped" into convenient clips already mounted on the frame. Then they are run up the body into the engine compartment near the battery junction/fuse box and looped over in a "reverse" trap to prevent splashes from settling into them, as shown to the right below. If you get water in these vents now, you've got more than drivetrain problems!!!
Basic recovery gear
It's a REAL good idea if you offroad, and for 4x2's in particular, to have some recovery gear. I have the usual come-along, straps, shackles, extension cables, front and rear tow hooks, etc. Most of it in the toolbox though you can see a 3/8" wire rope extension I made from bulk cable, thimbles and wire rope clips. Bolted to the toolbox is an all-cast 48" Hi-Lift jack in the "Loc-Rac" mount to keep it from being "borrowed". Someone can still get it if they REALLY want it (they always can) -- but it deters easy theft. The inexpensive black plastic toolbox shown has been replaced by the aluminum one shown below, a Delta 943000. The Hi-Lift jack can be stowed INSIDE this one.
The dangerous part...
Me, for those who are curious. This was taken at the ranger station at Atsion in Wharton State Forest -- a very fun place to go trail riding where there can be some serious mud and water.
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