Vehicle Owner

Member ID: thynes

Location: Pepperell, MA

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Vehicle Info

1990 Mazda Miata

Bragging Rights

  • 1/4 Mile0 sec @ -1 mph
  • 0-600sec
  • Top Speed-1mph
  • HP-1
  • Weight-1lbs

Major Upgrades

  • turbo
  • nitrous
  • bore increase
  • port and polish
  • supercharger
  • extrude honed
  • stroke increase
  • engine swap

Ratings

    • Currently 3.0/5 Stars.

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Last updated: Dec 09, 2003

Hits: 2,486

Tim’s Mazda Miata
“My Toy”

  • Currently 2.96 /5 Stars.
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thynes's 1990 Mazda Miata '90 short nose crank at 142000 miles. The engine had no power when I bought it. The bottom pulley, that the alternator/ water pump belt rides in, wobbled quite a bit. Note the obvious keyway damage, and the not so obvious damage to the "shoulder" of the crank. The shoulder has excessive rounding due to fretting/ movement of the timing pulley.

It sounded like an old Volkswagen Bug, because the timing of the valves were so far off.

thynes's 1990 Mazda Miata Bottom timing belt pulley with keyway damage. Note the circumferential scratches on the face of the pulley. The "shoulder" area of the inner bore has "eroded" due to fretting movement of the pulley and crank.

thynes's 1990 Mazda Miata Bolt with fractured threads and mangled key. The bolt, key, and pulley were junk. I bought a new pulley, key, bolt, crankshaft and camshaft oil seals when I repaired the crank. I did not buy a new timing belt, as it had been just replaced in a mistaken attempt to cure the low power problem.

The Repair:
I sanded and de-greased the surface of the crank and keyway to provide a clean surface for the Loctite to bond with. I also cleaned and degreased the new pulley, key, and bolt. I ran a tap down the crank to clean up the threads, then I degreased the hole.

I used Loctite 638 on the surface of the nose, key and keyway. I used Locktite 262 on the bolt. Some people questioned my use of 262 on the bolt as they thought I would never be able to remove the pulley should the need arise. I wanted the strongest bond possible. My thought on that was, if I ever needed to replace this assembly again it would most likely be time for an engine swap, so who cares about servicability. I replaced the oil seal at this time, even though it was not leaking, because I would not be able to get at it again easily. In reality, I suspect that I could remove the parts if I heated them up with a torch to break the Loctite bonds.

After 38,000 miles and 3 years it is still holding strong. Originally I only hoped it would last long enough to drive the car from Virginia back home to Massachusetts when I would do an engine swap. So far that has not been necessary!

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Vehicle Owner

Member ID: thynes

Location: Pepperell, MA