Thanks for checking out my 92 dx. I bought this car in 2000 for $3000 w/ 103,000 miles. It was an automatic d15b7 and the body only had one tiny rust bubble. I commuted to college and then work in this car year round. FWD to 2005 - The car has 175,000 miles, the rear quarters are rotting through. I bought a 96 Civic which became my winter/daily driver. I had been taking my EG to local auto-x events and wanted to build it up. I love my EG so I decided to do a full restoration and build a dedicated track car/weekend toy. This page will show highlights of the build from start, to stripping down to a bare shell, to rebuilding, and finish. Everything was done on a budget, doing all the work myself was the best way to save $$$$.

Civic-EG.com - A forum just for the 92-95 Civic

How my Civic stands today:

I did all the work myself, in my own garage. I learned a lot from Civic-EG.com, a forum just for the 92-95 civic.

It has many technical how-to write-ups with pics, members from all over the world, classifieds section, regional forums, as well as an interactive Wheel Viewer that lets you see how different rims look on your EG.

Sitting in my basement waiting to go on the car:

Garret T3 super 60 turbo, HF manifold port matched (
How-to for Port Matching ) and repainted (How to Paint your manifold with Hi-Temp Paint) 2.5" Spoolin Downpipe, 2.5" stainless flex section, 3" Thermal R&D stainless catback with resonator welded in, DSM 450cc injectors, resistor box ( How to wire the reistor box) , Motorola 2.5 bar Map sensor, JRC FMIC, 2.5" piping kit w/ rolled ends, T-clamps, HKS knockoff BOV, tapped oil pan, Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump, Oil sandwich adaptor, oil lines & restrictor, p28 chipped with CROME.

Before:

(after lowering and Y8 Mini-me Swap )

First thing was to drop out the D15b7 & auto transmission:

This was pretty easy, I did it by myself without an engine hoist.Here's How

With the front suspension apart, it was a good time to re-finish my old rusty calipers:

How-to clean & paint the calipers

Rust was eating my rear quarter panels. I saved a lot of money by fixing them myself. Here is how to fix your Honda Rust by replacing with new metal

Before you paint is a good time to Roll Your Fenders to make room for wider wheels & tires.

Next was to clean up the engine bay. I planned a full shave & wire tuck. It will look good and reduce weight. How to Shave the engine bay

My other Civic is a 1996 HX, they came with very lightweight OEM wheels. Mine were in need of a re-finish. Before:

After:

Here is how I polished my wheels.

Of course, one set of wheels is not enough, so I painted the set I had on my car when it was teal:

Here is how I painted my wheels Satin Black

I picked up a knocking D16z6 in need of a rebuild. I also got the Si manual tranny with it.
Rebuilding a honda motor requires specific bearing sizes. Figuring out which rod and main bearings you need can be confusing if you have not done it before. Here is a How-to to show you how to read the stampings inside the motor to determine which bearings you need

If you are using an engine stand, Here is how to attach your motor to the stand correctly
I used Eagle H-beam rods and SRP 75.5mm forged pistons. The stock crank was micropolished. The block was bored .020 (to 75.5mm), honed, and notched to clear the beefy H-beam rods. All new seals, gaskets, and a new oil pomp were installed. The head is a stock D16z6 (head for now). The flywheel/clutch is by XTD. It is their stage 3 kit: 8lb alum flywheel and 6 puck sprung clutch disc.

To go with the shaved bay...

I did a full wire tuck. This involved modifying the engine harness to enter through a single hole in the lower center of the firewall, relocating the fusebox & battery, and re-routing the front harnesses inside the fenders.
Here is a complete How-to with pics

Suspension:
I had already installed tokico coil over conversion, and a strut bar, and a full energy suspension bushing kit when I got into auto-x racing a few years back.
The Energy Bushing Kit was a pain to install, but I did it at home w/o a bushing press.

Next I installed Suspension Techniques front and rear Sway Bar it.

Installing the Front Bar
Installing the Rear Bar

To prevent risk of subframe tear since I was using a larger rear swaybar, I bought ASR A-Spec's rear subframe brace to reinforce the swway bar mounts.

Installing the ASR subframe brace

MORE TO COME.....