The secret ingredient to any serious hot rod, is the engine. In the case of the wagon, I'm building a 355 small-block. Nothin' special. (Syke!) [I won't say anything about the twin turbos yet.]

Parts list:

-> '77 "010" High nickel 4-bolt 350ci block.
- Bored +.030" [355ci]
- Plate-honed
- Decked .010"

-> Bottom End
- Forged 4340 Eagle crankshaft [3.875"].
- Forged Scat 5.7" I-Beam rods [7/16" ARP bolts]
- Speed-Pro Powerforged 4.030" Pistons
- ARP Main cap bolts
- Clevite 77 Rod and Main bearings

-> Valvetrain
- Summit Camshaft [224/224 .465"/.465"]
- Sealed Power Hydraulic Flat-tappet lifters
- Comp Cams pushrods
- Durabond Cam Bearings
- Crane cams Aluminum rocker arms [1.52]
- Comp Cams valve springs
- Summit timing set [Double roller]
- Summit Valves [2.02"/1.60"]

-> Air & Fuel
- Speed Density TPI (3 bar MAP)
- 1227749 ECM [Syclone/Typhoon]
- Stock injectors (for now)
- 450 lb/hr Billet electric fuel pump (45 psi)
- 10 Micron Billet inline fuel filter
- 16 Gal. Fuel cell (w/foam, 90 Ohm sender)
- -8AN Push-Loc fuel hose
- Twin 58mm BBK throttle body
- World Products Sportsman II heads [72cc - 200cc runners]

-> Ignition
- MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor plug wires
- NGK YR55 spark plugs
- Crane FireBall HI6 CD Ignition box
- Crane FireBall LX92 Coil

-> Misc.
- Billet Aluminum pulleys
- 180* Thermostat
- Aluminum Radiator
- Two 12" Electric fans
- ALL ARP HARDWARE.

The Ringing
Checking gaps-

Rods

Assembled!

Pistons installed -
"It's like Whack-a-Mole!!!"

Finally got the ARP Main bolts in and torqued. Painted the block, too. Still need to clean up the gasket surfaces from the overspray. (would've masked, but it was too oily...)

Here are the Sportsman II heads, painted. I'm using a "Low-Gloss Black" engine enamel by Duplicolor.

Had to re-pin the ECM connectors for the wiring harness to work with the $59 code I will be using on the Sy/Ty ECM. There is a list of pins that need to be moved in order to change a 1227730 ECM ($8D) to a 1227749 ($58).

To tune the ECM for the larger cam, extra loads, upgraded/altered engine components...(and the turbos), I will be using TunerProRT software [tunerpro.markmansur.com], and hardware available from Moates.net.

All the ARP fasteners used in the bottom-end are torqued, and the ARP head studs are in. Startin' to look like a race motor!

Started assembling the cylinder heads. Got all the exhaust valves lapped, and installed. Waiting for the correct intake valves, as the set I recieved was mis-packaged.

A new G-Body trans x-member (Christmas present)...and the new pulleys.

The Crane FireBall HI-6 Ignition box, and LX92 coil.
-Capacitive Discharge
-Built in rev-limiter
-Optional Boost-retard

Had to do a little clearancing for the double roller timing set. Nothin' big.

Got the timing cover and fuel pump block-off plate installed, along with a couple other little things.

Finally got the correct valves from Summit, so I finished up the heads.

Hopefully, the last time I'll have to see my pistons, until I switch to aluminum heads.

Some progress shots.

The ARP headstuds caused some interference issues with the aluminum rocker arms. A small amount of clearancing had to be done.

The cold-start injector will not be used, so a fuel pressure gauge will be retrofitted in its place. The EGR system will also be removed, so a block-off will need to be made.

Had to test fit the runners before final assembly. Looks killer.

This is where the fresh 355 will be going...into this freshly detailed engine compartment. Although, I still have a few details to take care of.

Just recieved the new 16 gallon fuel cell (w/ foam) that will be used. It features two -8AN outlets, a 2" sump, and a -6AN return. Along with the fuel cell, a Billet 10 Micron fuel filter, and a 450 lb/hr inline electric fuel pump will be used.

Dual 12" electric fans, mounted to an aluminum radiator will keep the powerplant from overheating in Pittsburgh traffic.

Engine bay update: Got the breather tank mounted. Still tryin' to decide if I should paint it or leave it red.

The motor is sittin' in place. Need to fab some motor mounts up after the firewall is redone. The markings are where the turbo oil drains will be going if the clearance stays positive.

1. The Beginnings.
2. Engine Build. [You are here]
3. Suspension & Brakes.
4. Bodywork.
5. Interior.
6. Misc.
7. Other rides.