Scroll down to the bottom for the new 3.8 SFI Turbo engine, and video links.

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This was originally purchased as a parts car to repair my 1986 Century. Now I have decided to restore it instead of parting it out. It is the 1984 Olympic edition. All the olympic badging is intact, the Olympic seats are intact, and the body (except the trunk lid) is dent-free.
I was on a service call about 200 miles from home and saw this car in a salvage yard. Originally wanting to buy only a few parts I found out the whole car (with clear title) could be bought for less than a few parts.
Now I don't know what it would be worth fixed. If anyone has any ideas about the possible value of this car, please let me know. It probably won't be worth huge amount of money but will be a good solid car.

Please see my e-mail in the picture if you have any comments! I want to know what people think, if you rate me really good, or really bad, please leave a guestbook comment. There aren't too many 1984 Centurys on Car Domain.
Thanks.

 

 

 

------UPDATE-11/25/07-------
Well, the old 3.0 Litre V6 runs like a top. I have converted it from carburetor to Throttle Body Fuel Injection. This so I can tweak and tune the system easier. Plus I was able to find a TBI system in the junkyard for a steal. Plus this TBI flows over 500 CFM. :-)
A friend of mine who is a "wizard" with steel and fiberglass wants to show me the basics of bodywork so we are going to repair the fiberglass damage on the header.

 

Above is the Adapter Plate that mounts to the Buick 3.0 manifold in place of the Rochester Dual-Jet carburetor. It has a 3-bolt pattern of 5/16-18 threaded holes in it to accept the Rochester TBI injector. Shown by its self and attached to TBI unit.

Above is the double-barrel throttle body injector unit from a 1990 Chevy pcikup with a 5.0 V8. It is mounted to the engine with the adapter plate.

This is the fuel return line. This fuel injection system has a return line that circulated unused gas back to the tank to maintain a fixed fuel pressure of about 14 PSI. This car started life with a carburetor that only had a fuel supply line but no return. The new steel line is the fuel return. It is in 2 sections with a flare-union in the center. It follows the factory routing under the car and is clamped with factory-style clamps.
I had pictures of the fuel pump replacement but they were corrupted. Darn the digital camera!! The carburetor had an in-tank fuel pump that was designed to put out 2 or 3 PSI dead-head. After dropping the gas tank It was repalced with a new Delco EP240 in-tank high pressure pump. This pump is taller than the original one so I had to cut off the tube on the sender to make it fit. Otherwise it fit like it was made for this car. Also the sender had a return line in it, with a steel ball driven in to cap it. I just cut the end off with the ball and connected the return line to the tank at this point. Fuel system now EFI-ready!

The electronics to work with the TBI are simpler than the old feedback-carburetor system. The knock sensor intarface and MAP sensor fit on the orignal feedback-carb relay mount panel. I used the harness from the Chevy truck that donated the TBI. It only took a few modifications, the connector for the distributor electronic timing had to be replaced, and the connector where the ECM harness connects to the dash harness had to be re-pinned. Other than that, it was a direct swap.

 

A 4-barrel carb air filter base fits the TBI, and the original "3.0 Litre V6" cover fits it. It has a much bigger snorkel than the V6 air filter.
The TBI is shorter than the original carb, so I had to install a set of air filter spacers to make it clear everything. Looks like a factory install to me!

The upper radiator hose has to go all the way from the left side of the motor to the right radiator tank, and no one had a hose that would fit. I took a simple hose with two 90° bends and cut it in two. Then used a piece of copper pipe with two 45° elbows, flared on the end to keep the hose from sliding off. Does not obstruct the oil fill or disptick, and looks kind of neat if I do say so!

I'm using the factory ECM from the 1990 Chevy truck where the TBI, sensors, and harness came from. This type ECM has a "chip" that contains the engine calibration. Here is where you change things such as ignition advance, engine size, injector size, number of cylinders and fuel/ air mixture. GM never made a "3.0 TBI" so I had to modify a calibration. I erased the V8 5.0 calibration and started with a 4.3V6 TBI chip. This is the closest factory chip to what I have put together. Since this engine is smaller than a 4.3, the "base pulse width constant" and "Accel Enrich tables" had to be adjusted to reflect the new engine size. This "educated guess" worked and the engine starts and runs well. I will need to tweak the "dalta TPS AE" which is like an accelerator-pump on a carburetor. It has a slight hesitation when opened hard from low idle. Other than that, it has a LOT more top-RPM power than these engines had with a carburetor.
With the large-snorkel air filter, and the TBI with its wide-open throttle bores, the engine has a "healthy" intake roar when you open it up. Quite satisfying and unexpected!
Hope you've enjoyed reading about my junkyard EFI conversion!

------UPDATE-11/27/07-------

Okay now I had a good day at the salvage yard! Located a set of perfect tail lights (plus several spares), good headlight trim, and a decklid (trunk lid), and header panel that were not perfect but I have restored with Bondo-Hair.

 

------UPDATE-11/27/07-------

Ok now I have gone off the deep end. It't time for a turbo! This is a "genuine Buick" engine. A bad, but complete 1979 Buick Turbo V6 became available so I naturally want to put the turbo hardwre on this 3.0. I wasn't sure the special intake manifold would fit and asked for advice on the turbo and EFI forums. It fits!
This would be what GM actually might have done if they made a Turbo Century in 1984. It's old-school and will not be as powerful as my intercooled 3.1 but should be fun to tinker with. It will have the same Rochester TBI that I converted earlier. Now it will be on the intake side of the draw-through turbo.

 

The above pictures show the Buick Turbo system partially installed, just for test of the fitment.

This sad image is of the blown-up "donor engine" that had this turbo system.

------UPDATE-12/09/07-------

The car from which this turbo system came had a conventional
(longitudinal) engine position with fan belt at front. My car has a transverse position with fan belt at right fender. The rear manifold branch of the crossover pipe had to be extensively modified to avoid the transmission. The front branch had to be slightly modified to avoid the transmission TV cable. A custom downpipe had to be fabricated to get the
exhaust to the proper position to hook up to the muffler pipe. Things are VERY tight behind the motor! I did install insulation on the crossover to help keep underhood temps down.
It's going to be a difficult job to install the turbo with engine in car due to bolt locations. I don't yet have the turbo rebuild kit so it can't be installed yet. The turbo shown in pictures is missing all internal parts.
The car from which this turbo system came had a "BOP" bellhousing; this engine is almost identical except for the bellhousing. This one has a Chevy FWD bellhousing which is taller. It has no place to install the turbo oil return. SO I drilled and threaded a hole in the manifold down as low as I
could to give it an oil return. Will have to slightly tilt the turbo center section to make the drain hook-up without any "traps" or uphill portions of tube.
I replaced the timing gear when the engine was out of the car. This is an original 1984 engine with low miles. The original camshaft sprocket was aluminum and nylon. These disintegrate and cause piston/valve interference and a blown engine. I just barely caught this in time. Several teeth were
missing! All timing gear components are new. (steel not plastic cam and crank sprockets, chain, chain guide, tensioner) Had to drive all over town to get the complete set. Long story but every store had an incomplete set but I was able to piece together what I needed...
Won't be long now; have to get the turbo back together and the new TBI adapter plate made.
These pictures are annotated to explain, expand them to read the notations.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

------UPDATE-12/24/07-------
I'm still waiting on my turbo repair parts so I decided to start restoring the interior. It was very dirty but not overly damaged.
I needed to repair the floorboard so the seats and molded carpet pad had to come out first.
Someone had jacked or lifted the car by the rear floorboards and pushed them up about 4 inches. The drivers seat was very difficult to remove because of the bulge in the back floorboard! No room to get to the bolts.
got the floorboard fixed by using an old Ford Dana 80 axle shaft as a pounding tool. Used a piece of old radiator hose to give it a "soft" end and just pounded it back down.
The floorboaard is coated with Rustoleum cold-galvanize now. The molded carpet pad will hide the small dents and bulges.
That axle has a stripped spline where it goes into the differential. It represents a Bad Day in the service truck. Could have been worse. I travel in 3 states and am home only 2 or 3 times a month. Could have stripped anywhere but it waited to strip until I was 20 miles from home. It was quick and easy to get towed back to my own driveway to fix the rear end.
Useless to drive a Ford truck, but wrap some radiator hose around the end and it makes a great tamping-tool!

Before

Before

Repaired

Repaired

Tool

There had been engine parts placed on the seats, you could see the imprint of an import engine valvecover or something similar!
The drivers' seat had years worth of dried sweat, spilled drinks, and other "biological stains" on it. It took a 2-step process to clean them.
First I wet them with the hose and vacuumed what was water-soluble. Then I misted the damp fabric with Purple Power degreaser and scrubbed with a nylon bristle brush. This was then vacuumed and rinsed and vacuumed until I could not smell degreaser anymore.
Finally, the driver's seat and front passenger seat still had "biological stains." To remove these I sprayed the fabric with full-strength Chlorox bleach (Mountain Fresh) and scrubbed with the nylon brush.
After 3 or 4 rinse and vacuum cycles the seats look almost like new!
This is amazing considering the light color and the 23 years of grime and grunge embedded in them!

 

 

 

Here is the before and after series of pictures from cleaning of the carpet pad. I laid it on the parking lot and hosed it with Purple Power degreaser. Then hit it with the pressure wash, at about 150°F and 2000 PSI.
You should have seen the nud shower that flew in all directions! YUCK. Then vacuumed it with shop vac. I had to bleach the left-rear area because it had standing water damage and got distracted. It over-bleached but it's no big deal since the floor mats cover this area, and other areas are sun-faded
also.
The seat upholstery is unaffected by bleach, it can stand in bleach indefinately and not change color.
There was so much grunge in the drivers side foot-well area that the pile appeared to be worn off but it was just "filled" with crud! The pressure-washer and degreaser cut all that grime out of the carpet pile and it is soft and plush again.
No idea how the single, small hole came in the drivers floor mat. Will be on the look out for another brown GM mat.

Nasty!

Clean!

Clean!

Clean!

---------Update February 30 2008------------

Ok!  Got the engine together and running. Looks kind of junky but doesn't run too bad.  Going to do some ECM tuning on it shortly.  I am using a modified GMC Syclone ignition timing map, and a custom tuned VE table for this 3.0 enging.

 

 

 

---------Update July 30 2008------------
I had the 3.0 engine partially tuned, and the crank and rod bearings failed. It had 24 years worth of sludge in the pan. I found another core engine to rebuild. It will be a force to fear; a hybrid Grand National / FWD 3.8 SFI Turbo engine. It's a factory hydraulic roller lifter engine, block is much heavier than the 3.0 and it should be a strong.

Powertrain specs:
Basic engine model: Buick 3.8 SFI (RPO Code LG3)
Camshaft: Comp 258HR Extreme Energy Turbo, modified for factory-roller block and gerotor oilpump timing gear housing.
Turbocharger: Turbonetics GTK-series, ceramic bearing water cooled.
Fuel system: Rochester MPFI, 3 BAR S/D (MAP fuel control) 1227749 ECM running Code59 program. 
Ignition: Delco DIS crank-triggered ignition (stock)
Engine condition: Ported heads and manifolds, forged pistons
Transmission model: HydraMatic 440T4 (pending modifications)

Lots of work to be done but I am trying for 500 HP. Will post as build progresses!

------Update August 9 2008 -----------------------

Just did some work on my engine, getting the heads and manifold ported and the timing gear system worked out.

There is a high performance turbo camshaft for this engine since it is a direct decendant of the mighty Grand National 3.8. The only problem is, the GN was rear wheel drive and had a gear-driven oilpump and ignition timer device. The camshaft for it is the same as the old carburetor 3.8. It has a mechanical fuel pump lobe, and an oilpump / distributor drive gear.

My engine is a Front Wheel Drive engine from 1987. This had a factory installed roller lifter camshaft. The block is equipped for the retaining hardware for the roller lifters. The cam has no provisions of a mechanical fuel pump and has no distributor / oilpump drive gear. Therefore the camshaft is shorter. To use the readily-available RWD Grand National high performance camshaft in my FWD engine, I had to have the front end of the cam machined to match the engine's original camshaft.

This turned out excellent! Instead of the gear-driven ignition timer device on the RWD engine, my engine has a separate cam position sensor and crank trigger. Instead of a gear driven oilpump, it has a gerotor-type oilpump that is direct-drive off the lower crankshaft sprocket. It turns at crankshaft speed and is a much better systen than the old gear pump. The front of the engine is more compact and the oil filter bypass issue is reduced. But the aftermarket Grand National camshaft had to be modified!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have moved the coil pack to the lower front right corner of the engine (as sitting in car) instead of on top of the engine. This is where the 88 and newer engines have this item.  This model of engine looks more "potent" with the tall aluminum tuned port manifold and 3/4" black Bosch fuel rail fully exposed.  I don't want a bunch of electrical parts and wires over the top of the engine.

Turbo will go on the right side of the picture in front of the TB and near the original location of the airflow meter. Just realized how nasty that alternator looks!  It came from Crazy Ray's salvage yard in Columbia, MD.  The salt got to it a little but it works!  I will rebuild and clean it before final assembly.

 

--------------------------------

Finally getting the engine together!  Actually have it in the car and installing the wiring.  I had to change ECM's from the throttle-body injector ECM.  IT was not compatible with the distributorless ignition system on this engine!  I am using a Delco 1227749 ECM running the Code59 custom program. I have run the engine and driven the car (on the yard) but the exhaust and air pipework are not complete yet!

The following pictures show the engine as I was building it up.  Hope to have some in-car pictures later this week.

Expand the pictures, and you can read the notes on them. 

 

 

 

 

 

-------------------------------11/23/2008-----------------

Just got done making and installing the exhaust downpipe. These pictures are annotated and explain the process. First, the pieces of the downpipe were installed and tack-welded in place.  This engine requires a 3" exhaust system  It would be bad enough to create a 3" exhaust from the "factory" exhaust outlet point, but making it from the turbo, under the master cylinder, behind the engine, under the A/C evap case, and out the "stock" location--- was quite a challenge!

Once the pipe was tacked in position, I had to drop the subframe down to get clearance to remove the pipe.  After that point, I fully welded the pipe together, and added the fittings such as the oxygen sensor port, and pipe mounting points.

Once the pipe was built, I wrapped 2 layers of fiberglass exhaust insulation around it, and over-wrapped it with 2 layers of heavy-duty aluminum tape. This will keep the pipe from radiating heat and damaging the brake system and A/C system.  It comes vary close to both of them.

With the completed pipe installed, it is time to re-install all the parts removed to build the pipe.  The A/C drier bracket had to be modified to clear the pipe. The air filter is now where the battery used to be.  The battery is in the trunk with a 3/0 cable and power stud under the hood to power the starter.

The transmission dipstick had to be moved to the other side of the engine to clear the downpipe.

That 3 inch pipe is pretty big! I ran the engine with the downpipe open like this.  It is LOUD. The "bass" is such that you feel it in your chest when the engine is revved.

This is the power stud where everything gets battery power.  The original positive battery cable goes here, to power the starting motor.  The other wires are the power feed from the 140 amp Delco CS144 alternator, the power feed to the interior fusebox, and the ECM power feed.

Below is how the engine basically will look under the hood.  Still no air charge pipework or intercooler; but that is about the last major fabrication job.

 

--------------------------11/29/2008-----------------------

Just got around finishing the charge air pipework. Pictures are annotated and should be self-explanatory.  All charge air pipework is made with mandrel-bend 2.5" steel tubing.

There are 4 pieces of pipe. One "horseshoe" pice at each end of the bumper, one crossover pipe under the front of the car, and an "up-pipe" from there to the throttle body.

The up-pipe is connected to the TB with a temporary rubber hose. I plan to weld a narrow-radius auminum elbow onto the throttle body to aliminate this hose. I have an extra TB so if I mess up one I am still OK.

I was toying with the idea of a liquid cooled interooler because it has less complicated charge air pipework. Only problem is there is all the cooling fluid connections, heat exchanger, pump etc. An air-to-air is the simplest and most reliable solution anyway. Just took a little time to fab up the plumbing.

The center crossover pipe is "just a little" lower than I wanted it. It may be the part to hit a curb when I pull too far into a parking spot. May have to build a skid-plate eventually.

All the bumper and grill parts fit back on and conceal the pipework and intercooler. Nothing visible will show! (unless you peer into the grille and notice).

I have an intercooler ordered but it hasn't come in yet. I have the dimensions on it and the pipes should line up!

The intercooler is half as tall as the A/C condenser. In the space above the intercooler, I am going to place half an A/C condenser. I will cut it long-ways to fit in this space. It will be an "oversize" transmission oil cooler.

Videos of the engine starting, running and revving:

This is an un-tuned ECM that has a 3-BAR speed density program.  Once car is driving I will fine tune this.  It is LOUD with an open 3" exhaust downpipe!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKStgB7ceq0  Cold start.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dw1mVO3h16o  Revving and brake spooling.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DkhRnEOqUK4  Hot restart.

The third picture on down are in order of the airflow through the system from the turbo to the TB.

 

 

------------12/14/2008----------

Made the brackets for the trans oil cooler and attached them to the condenser frame.  While that was out, I also flushed it with solvent in preparation for commissioning the air conditioner.  This way I can accomplish that without having to dismantle the front end again just to flush the condenser!

The intercooler brackets support the cooler to the frame horns where the bumper also attaches.  The intercooler has two 1/4-20 tapped  holes in each end for mounting.  The holes are so close together that I had to use socket-head bolts because two 7/16 hex bolts would not fit side by side without binding.  Had to get the socket head bolts and cut them to length. Home Depot had them in one length only and beggars can't be choosers as they say... on Sunday evening at 5:45pm...

I put a light dusting of semi-flat black on the visible areas of the intercooler.  Yes it was all shiny and pretty but I want this to remain a "sleeper" ....... A big aluminum intercooler is a dead giveaway.  The core area is just "dusted" with paint so as not to impede heat transfer.

The trans oil cooler was too large and I will have to cut off one more "section" of tubes.  Thankfully I have one more tail piece since that is nearly impossible to cut off and weld back on more than once.  Also the lines need to be re-bent and re-bracketed to line up with the opening in the body (where the A/C line also goes).  I had them pointing downward but that would put the trans oil hoses in a bad bind and caused that area to become too "crowded" with junk. So it will get re-modified again!

-----------12/15/2008-------------------

Got the transmission oil cooler cut down to fit.  Fits like a factory part and cost basically nothing. Should definately be large enough!

Started with an A/C condenser just like the one on the car for the A/C system. Measured it out for the space available above the intercooler. and cut it on a table saw with carbide-tipped blade.  It cut easier than a pine board!!

Took the tail piece off and moved it to the upper part of the coil.  Then cut it short and TIG welded a piece of 3/8" aluminum tube into it to make the lower hose connection. For good measure, I also put a support between the 2 lines.

GM used some FUNKY ALUMINUM SOLDER to hold the condenser together. I could not TIG weld the tail piece back on because of this solder (and my inexperience TIG welding!) I had to use more solder and a propane torch to re-attach the tail piece.  It was hard to get it to seal without pinholes but finally it air checked without leaks.  The line extensions were TIG welded and that is a much easier process and it seals on the first go-round.

Fits across the condenser above the intercooler.

Lines go through the core support next to the A/C line.

---------12/20/2008----------

Car has been on the road for 2 days and is running well!  Had one problem that I expected.  The transmission TV cable melted from being too near the exhaust.  Got a metal housing built for it.  Also, got the 60 pound per hour Mototron injectors installed.  Car has some major power, and is not yet even close to tuned!

---------12/28/2008-----

Here are some pictures of the engine in the car, most everything is complete now!

I'm working on gathering parts for a 4T65E electronic-shift transmission upgrade now.  I have the transmission, CV shafts, electronic speedometer head, and some of the software for calibrating the transmission. 

This transmission came from a 1997 Riviera Supercharged 3800. I will rebuild it before using it in this car.  Trans oil in it looked pretty nasty.

------------------------------------05/10/2009-----------------

Been a while since I updated here!  Life gets in the way sometimes.  Anyway got the transmission all rebuilt and modified to my liking.  Has new clutches, shift kit, as well as hardened input and output shafts, limited-slip final drive, and HD torque converter. Here are the repair and install picts. Most of the pics are annotated, so you can expand them for more information.

Electronic controls on valve body:

Original dual-chain (not good...)

Box of parts, all cleaned and ready to go back together:

Since this is an electronically-controlled transmission, it requires a transmission ECU.  The car it came from had a powertrain ECM that did both engine and transmission.  I already have a well-tuned engine ECM and don't want to loose that to switch to a PCM.  So I have separate ECM's for engine and transmission. This transmission ECU came from a 1992 Chevy diesel pickup with 4L80E elecgtronic 4-speed auto transmission.

Here is a comparison of the 2-row chain (weak design that came in the new 4T65E transmission) and the original 440T4 chain.  Notice the counterbore machined in the right-hand sprocket, to accept the bigger 4th clutch in the 4T65E... Onmodified 440T4 sprocket in center of picture.

Input assembly.  Hardened shaft, with modified 440T4 sprocket and 4T65E reluctor wheel.

The chain installed:

This shows the original HD-series 2.39:1 final drive on the left; sitting next to the HD-series 3.29:1 limited-slip final drive.

 \

LSFD installed in transmission.

 

The HD series transmission has a 10 1/8" torque converter with bigger lockup clutch.  The converter is so large it will barely fit in the bellhousing! I had to modify the driveplate to bolt to the converter.  The converter is held concentric to the crankshaft by the pilot shaft and crankshaft pilot bore.  The driveplate bolts do not hold the converter in balance, they only transmit torque.  Therefore, manually drilling them is good enough.

 

The CV shafts were different between the 440T4 and the 4T65EHD.  I had to build up a set of custom shafts out of stock parts from different vehicle applications.  If you need more info on this please contact me.

Transmission going up into position... Will it clear the turbo system?

Everything hooked up....

That big aluminum side cover really fills up the space under the turbo!

The transmission works EXCELLENT.  The HD converter clutch locks in SOLID and does not slip, even at full power.  The limited slip works flawlessly.  This car will launch like a bullet and accelerate like a rocket! No slipping and all the power goes to the ground; not to heat in the torque converter oil!

--------------

Check out my restored factory Buick Turbine wheels!  New clearcoat and center caps. Looking sharp, won't be long before paint time!

 

More pictures coming as I work on this car! Thanks for stopping by!

When the powertrain is right, I want to begin suspension and brake upgrades.  The front brakes are adequate on these cars, but the rear drums are horrible.  I am going to look for a rear-disc axle to swap in. This will get the brakes up to par. 

The suspension has front and rear sway bars (the rear is inside the axle tube) but they are small.  My other Century has a much heavier sway bar (it is a T-Type).  My plans are to install progressive rate springs, heavier sway bars (possibly from FWD GM van) and poly bushings.

The interior I want to keep basically stock (for the Olympia look) but I do want to have a console shifter. Next trip to the junkyard I will have to look for disc brakes, consoles, and sway bars!

David

 SO the question is begged again and again - just how fast is is?  Well - I haven't yet run it at the strip, but it has been on the dyno.   So for the non-beleivers, here is the printout from the dyno computer.  The numbers boxed in red at the bottom are the TORQUE and HORSEPOWER readings.  The car put to the grouns, 326 HP at the wheels; and 380 LbFt of torque.  In case you're windering - that is about 4 times the rating of the original 3.0 engine!

The dyno guy is very sure this engine has way more potential if the ignition system was working better. The black trace for engine torque going all over the place is an indication of ignition breakup.

There was a SNAFU with the RPM pickup at first, and the car made 5 pulls that the machine did not record, before the pull that was recorded.  It was bad because by that time the ignition system (and all other parts) were getting hot.  Finally it cut out all together and backfired.  After that, we let it cool off for several minutes and then it laid down the 326 HP pull.

OK here are the videos!  I tried to keep the numbers in order but may have them out of order.  I'm pretty sure the #6 is the one where we got a valid HP and torque reading.  I think #3 is where the ignition was overheating and it backfired.

I'm going to get a hotter and more reliable Delco fast-start direct ignition system off a later model Buick 3800, as well as install an exhaust cutout before the muffler.  Then will come back and dyno it again.

Testing dyno setup:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ey3BtBDuwzQ

Pull # 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kv8aN7opWTc

Pull # 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLsSGDB_IKk

Pull # 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZT-kfwp_lpU

Pull # 4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIR91F7KUs4

Pull # 5 (I goofed and did not video it.)

Pull # 6
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7HL8u-SwV8

Will post again after the next dyno day!