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-The blower is here boys! It is a used V1 that is freshly rebuilt. Before the rebuild it logged 8,000 miles which really isn't much. I bought it from Performance Plus w/ 2.87 pulley. Don't worry, I'm not starting my boosted life with 13PSI. I'm trading the 2.87 w/ Slimer for his 3.33 and some other stuff. I love it. I still have a long way to go before the Max is living on boost but it will happen. I plan to do the install next winter. In the mean time I'll be removing the scroll and polishing it and the gearbox. I need to buy the following new or used:
-Charge Pipe
-Vortech SFMU
-Oil Feed Line
-Oil Pressure T
-T-Bolt Clamps
-Silicon Couplings
-Correct Belt
-Lightened OEM size crank pulley because SC's don't fair well with UDP's.

-Vortech Race BOV There is only one way to do things when you're building for boost. That way is to do it right. I've heard tons of great things about the Vortech BOV's. They work excellently and make a decent sound while doing it. I can't wait to put it on.

-Walbro Fuel Pump(GSS432) The Walbro 255LPH fuel pump is in the mail. Once I get the SFMU I'm going to install it. I'll be able to turn down the base FP with the SFMU while I'm still N/A.

-Custom Upper and Lower Radiator Mounts My radiator done feel out on me. Those flimsy little sheet metal pieces that hold up the bottom of the radiator decided to give way on me. So I made some plates out of steel and riveted them to the lower rad support. This necessitated different upper mounts so I made those out of aluminum.

-Ported and Honed Throttle Body Just before putting everything back together from the tranny swap I decided to decrease the restriction through the TB. I tossed it in the mill with a really wide bit. I brought the bit down into the butterfly rod. I only milled out the area in between the screws. I couldn't do this on the backside because there was no way for me to clamp the TB in the mill. So, I put it in the vice and took my time filling down the rod. The results are minimal but every little bit counts. I want to hold myself to the OEM TB to keep all that snappy response.

-Custom Exhaust I decided my crappy cobbled exhaust was no longer for me. I began by removing the RT cat which was gutted. I cut the flanges off it in an effort to use them for the new setup. Then I pulled the b-pipe and cut out the resonator which was practically brand new. I welded the resonator to the cat flange and then welded this big @ss muffler onto the resonator. It barely fits in before the gas tank but it does. Then I welded on a 3" bend to point the exhaust away from the gas tank and down toward the ground.0

-B&M Short Throw Shifter I decided to do it right the first time during the tranny swap. I couldn't decide if this was a speed mod or an interior mod. I guess its a bit of both. Anyway, I like it.

-ACT Stage 1 Clutch It took me a long time to decide on this clutch. I wanted the grabbing power required for all NA situations. I just hope it holds boost. So maybe the Stage 1 will hold up to 10-11 PSI. If not I'll keep the pressure plate and upgrade the disc to a Spec or something.

-Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley This thing was a bia to install. It took me four days of on and off fidling with different size belts and stuff. Most people say that on an auto you have to lock the flywheel to tighten the pulley enough. I found that I could torque the crank bolt to well past 150Ib/Ft by simply holding the pulley stationary by hand. This part will be for sale within the year because I need to switch back to a stock sized pulley for the SC. I'm not going back to the stocker though. Lightened and polished for me.

-Budget 2.5" Mandrel Y-Pipe If the Max wasn't nine years old this would not have been a problem. The bolts connecting the collector to the Cat were rusted very solidly. So I went to an exhaust shop and had 'em break the nuts off(This was before I had airtools). Other than that breaking the manifold bolts loose was no problem. This is definitely the most noticeable power increase of the mods I've done so far.

-Homemade Intake Made this thing out of some simple materials that can be found at Home Depot and a local exhaust shop. The most expensive part was the filter itself. Other than that this mod cost less than $25 and gives a great sound, look, and 1-3 HP/TQ.

-4" Cold Air Hole

-Removed A/C I don't consider any of these things I've removed to be mods. I just put them on this page and in this category because they make the car faster. I recently decided it was time for the A/C to find a home elsewhere. So, I opened the valves and purged that out. Two hours later and a few trips to the parts store I had a new car. There were many reasons that I decided to rid myself of the 35Ibs of comfort.

1. Weight saving from the very front of the car.
2. Freeing up of several HP & Ib/Ft.
3. Improved throttle response.
4. Better gas mileage since I always have the windows down anyway.
5. I sold the parts for a bit of money.

-Removed Power Steering I did this because I really dislike belts and weight. The system weighs a good 15Ibs. It also reduces power and gas mileage. I plan on reducing the weight of the vehicle so much that driving without power steering will not be very difficult. Only one really short belt left.