REPLACING FRONT ROTORS AND BRAKE PADS
This is the first time I've ever co-done this. I did it with a buddy who was very experienced. Watching him and helping, I think I could do it again. There are a few steps that I'll probably miss, so in no way is the following an all inclusive DIY tutorial. I hope these photos and descriptions will help you though. Good luck. (You have a little over 2,000 freeway miles after the sensor indicates brake wear to change the pads. I would do it sooner so that you don't have to replace the rotors like I did.
TOOLS YOU'LL WANT TO HAVE:
- Long screwdriver to shove out the pins securing the pads.
- Blue locktight gooey stuff for the bolt threads.
- Rubber hammer to bang out the rotors if it gets stuck
- Torque screwdriver to remove the screw that secures the rotor in place to the car.
- Normal hand tools to remove bolts. Hex-shape. Size 18
A note about the parts:
Where to buy rotors:
The dealer is the fastest way to get them. They charge around $130 apiece. That's $281 out the door after tax. Bam! You feel like you're out a zillion dollars when you could have purchased them sooner and waited for them to be shipped from Buymbparts.com where they'd only be $208 shipped.
Where to buy pads:
Some people have had luck finding Friction Master brakes at Autozone, but I had no such luck and therefore got them through the net at partsamerica.com. Cheapest price came in at $47 shipped for the fronts. This company does not make rear ones.
Aside from your rotors and pads, you'll also need a single brake sensor (purchase at buymbparts.com or your dealer. Price difference is about $1.50). The brake sensor is on the right side. There is no sensor for the left. Jack your car up, place jack stands and remove the wheel.
This is what you should see. If you run your finger across the rotor, you may feel grooves like I did. This means that the brake pad is wearing into the rotor and it needs to be replaced. Good thing we're doing that now!
This is the jack stand location for the front end of the car. It's a little square/retangular rubber piece beneath the front end.
Here's the left side jack point.
You will be removing the caliper via two bolts located in the back. You may want to turn your tire in the opposite direction of the side that you are working on to get clearance. If you're working on the left side, turn the wheel to the right.
My gloved finger is pointing at the bolt you need to remove. There is a second identical one below it on the bottom side of the caliper. When you bolt this back on, use blue locktight on the threads. These two bolts need to be torqued to MB specs which I looked up to be 25 ft lbs. I got this from a mbworld.org thread so if you have the actual manual or spec sheet and it differs, go by that. But please let me know if it's different!!!! Contact me via here or mbworld please. Thank you.
My friend recommends using a bucket to hold the caliper. Once the caliper is removed, it's hanging by nothing by the brake line. You do NOT want that. Rest it on the bucket for safety.
If you buy Brembo's, it will come in a retail box and resemble the rotor on the left. If you purchase directly from Mercedes and overpay by $70, you will get the one on the right. It is covered with a grey finish to protect it during shipping. It will be silver and shiny once installed and used. You may want to clean the center hub however. That part will never touch the caliper and will continue to be grey.
Photo shows 3 sensors, but you only need one for the right side front.
If you didn't plan ahead and purchase from buymbparts.com and lagged like I did, you can use a product like this to clean the grey stuff off.
Left side shows clean. Right side shows grey stuff. See the 5 bolts that hold the rotor in place? There's an extra tiny hole next to one of the holes at about 7 o'clock. You need a torque screw to remove that piece.
Once the caliper is removed, you'll need to remove the two pins that hold the brake pads in place. Use a similar tool shown in the photo. I believe they sell it at Kragen or Sears. Use a hammer to bang the pins out.
Another shot of the two pins that need to be removed.
Can you tell which one is new and which is old?
How about now? Right side is the new one. These pads come with a metal shim that needs to be fastened to the back of each pad. It shows in it in the included instructions. I says there's an adhesive backing, but I didn't see any, so it's mounted by the brackets on the actual shim itself.
The top one looks like we're running out of brake pads! Luckily we're replacing it with the beefier bottom piece.
Unfortunately it was about to rain so I could not finish taking the pictures of some details:
- How to grease up and place the new pads back into place.
- How to secure the shim onto the brake pad.
- How to secure the brake sensor onto the pad.
- Using the c-clamp to pull pistons out of the way so the caliper will fit back onto the rotor
This mbworld.org thread.
This guy has some awesome DIY write-ups
TABLE OF CONTENTS
01-Why I bought the car and first pics
02-More photos in a parking lot
03-More photos comparing lighting conditions
04-My favorite photos in another parking lot.
07-K&N Air filter installation
08-Carbon fiber wrapped stock rear trunk spoiler
09-Carbon fiber front lip
11-Yellow fog lights
12-Front rotors and pads installation
13-How the car looked before I bought it
14-Flat hood emblem from ebay
15-Valve stem covers from ebay
16-Rear roof spoiler installation
17-Thank you page for members
18-License plate and reverse light bulb replacement
19-Rear rotor and brake pad installation