Note: Reason why Turbo's fail

Do not use standard oil, use synthetic oil. I rebuilt turbo's for a few years. Oil gets cooked in the bearing housing, carbon deposits form restricting oil flow to the bearings then they cease to the housing, the shaft keeps turning, chewing up the bearing material, the spinning turbine end hits the Turb. housing total failure.

Bought in 2006 for $300. Engine rattle when  slight throttle applied. Piston slap      

             before                              

                  after

This 85 has a solid body and is getting the works to start off the ECU is getting pulled and replaced with (SDS) Simple Data Systems stand alone plugs into the exsisting harness. Then a 255Lph fuel pump with 120psi shut off gets installed. 72 pound per hour or 750cc injectors. VAM removed 3 Bar MAP (30psig)to replace it, air temp sensor wired in, MSD multi spark 6A ignition. Garett hybird turbo t3 .48 A/R turbine side, TO4B 60-1 compressor side, internal actuator.  Will use a BOV.  Then custom Intercooler up front under bumper. Rework the intake turn it 120 deg at the base. Some hacksawing, grinding and aluminum welding will do the trick. Then on to the brakes and tires. Should be finished fall of 2008. 

update Oct 08

 90 psi 255lph fuel pump and 55 pound per hour injectors would have been enough to make 350 hp. Turbo has to flow air at 44 pound/ minute for 400hp.

Update Dec 08

I finished all the tuning on a 7 hr trip. Maxed out the winter tires. Speed rating 190 km/hr. I can only get 19psi of boost with stock actuator. Note the stock boost gauge is not accurate get a high quality boost gauge.  

the engine turbo combination gives 19psi spike(19psi reading from MAP sensor) at 4000rpm then drops and holds 13 psi until boost creep starts at 5500 to red line.

The SDS has a rpm switch that i wired a boost solinoid to and if i set it to open at 7000rpm the spring in the actuator can only hold 20lbs of exhaust pressure. exhaust pushes the by-pass valve open and makes the engine crap out at 4000rpm. So to maximize the boost i set the rpm switch to open at 3750rpm. 

So i picked up a holset hx35 actuator, that can be set to 25 to 30 psi.

Update March 2009

I found out that, the best turbos for these motors are ones that use compressor wheels with extended tip 50 series, like turbonetics T3/TO4E super 50 with .63A/R 5 bolt t. housing. 350-375hp @ 30 psi  http://www.agpturbo.com/product.php?productid=16142&cat=252&page=1 or AGP Delta 48 with .48 or .63 5 bolt t. housing. 440 hp  http://www.agpturbo.com/product.php?productid=16387&cat=313&page=1 or AGP Delta 55 with .82 5 bolt t. housing. 500 hp drag race  http://www.agpturbo.com/product.php?productid=16422&cat=313&page=1 or bullseye S256, S258 these have the most flexable compressor flow maps can support 37psi and 56-58 lbs/min, 550hp, needs engine mods, camshaft 0.500+lift,  valve train to handle 9000 rpm, connecting rods, main bearing strap kit. Esslinger.com, Stand alone ECU 

May 11/09

purchased New Rad from 1-800 radiator. Came from Cali. BAT has discontinued them. problems with this rad, it has a threaded hole in the lower right side. 22mm X 1.5 oil pan plug fits perfectly. picked it up at Inland Kenworth.

May 28/09

blew head gasket 8993PT-1

#1035 on order $75.00 + Tax outch

July 12/09

took the belt sander to the turbo to manifold mating surfaces... no more leaks

July 20/09

installed clear side signal lights... pic on page 5

July 22/09

got the  new blower motor form BAT. nice piece only $487 Canadian. pg. 5

Aug 30/09

new location for fuel and oil pressure guages. pg. 5

Sept 8/09

watch video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLtYbrnhgoM

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getting ready for the brake upgrade and FMIC