This page is for my recent UPDATES and HOW TO's.

(10/5/2008) just took possesion of a 1996 EscortLX 2DR hatchback it has Eibach springs, Tokico "BLUES" (not S/R's) K&N Air filter,15" GT rims (missing one rim because it was stolen when he had the car) new 5spd,tranny and engine mounts, clutch(never used but installed) new starter,120mph speedometer, alignment bolts kit(offset bolt for front struts) Stainless 2.25"inlet Oval muffler w/ Dual tips and I got all this for $150.00. I love friends.

Rims need center caps

 SEE HOW LOW IT IS!                Decaled                 Pic of the Tokico "Blue's"

 The 1996 LX dash. drilled 3 holes for my Sunpro gauges.(10/06/2008)

My new 120MPH speedo Don't like the green lights so I sanded that off and i'm going to shade it back w/ red Sharpie . and i'm changing the lights in the dash to red bulbs as well.(10/06/2008)

Wheels, Muffler,Struts & Springs cleaned and ready to install(10/07/2008)

Check out my new stainless exhaust

(10/10/08) installed new shocks and springs. no more fender gap!

 
(9/24/2007)My Clutch Was Slippin' Pretty bad. So I Bought A New One W/ a Lifetime Warranty. So I'm Covered.

To Anyone That Has Never Changed A Clutch Before In A Escort Its Not Too Bad To Do.

The Manual Says That You Need To Remove the Tranny In Order To Change The Clutch. But That's Not True. Here's The Method That I Used.
an aircompressor and a air ratchet is what i used

1= raise the driverside of the car and place a jackstand under the frame.
2=remove the battery and it's tray (i used the tray to hold the bolts)
3=remove the airbox and airduct frome the engine.
4=remove the driverside tire. then remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie-rod after this remove the tierod from the spindle.
5=remove the 2 bolts from the strut and then remove the nut and bolt from the lower ball joint, then remove the spindle from the ball joint (oh remove the clip from the brake hose that is connected to the strut)
6=i used a 10lb slide-hammer w/ a flat hook to remove the CV AXLE from the tranny (be sure to use a drain pan)lay it aside

7=you will need 2 jacks to do this for less headaches. so take 1 of the jacks and a block of wood and place it under the engine. raise the jack up till you see the engine move slightly.
8=remove the bolts from your exhaust flange (2 bolts) and the bolts from the support on the back of the motor(exhaust support) drop it out of the way.
9= now remove the 4 bolts from the crossmember and the 4 bolts from the motor mounts and drop the cross member out of the way.
10=place the second jack under the tranny and releive a little pressure from the weight.
11=remove the 2 bolts from the slave cylinder and lay it aside and any wires that may be in the way that are connected to the tranny, no need to remove the starter wires though.
12=remove the top tranny mount and the starter and all the bolts from the bell housing(make note of where you removed the bolts from because some of them are shorter than others.
13= now seperate the tranny from the engine by raising the jack on the motor and lowering the jack on the tranny.

14=between both jacks aise the motor and lower the tranny till you can easily remove the clutch and flywheel and pilot bearing
15=it is easier to remove th flywheel w/ an aircompressor and an impact gun. when you REinstall the flywheel MAKE SURE YOU TORQUE THE BOLTS TO SPEC. (the pourpose of removing the flywheel is so that you can resurface it I Just used a drill and a 80 grit pad (the surface should be smooth, swirly and shiney)
16= install everything that comes w/ the kit and the your done
17= put everything back in the opposite way you took them out

MOST OF ALL TORQUE YOUR FLYWHEEL AND MAKE SURE ALL YOUR BOLTS ARE TIGHT.