As-purchased condition
357 CID (350 + .040) Coded V0507CKS (LM-1 350 MT, May 7th)
Speed-Pro H631-040 hypereutectic pistons
Speed-Pro moly rings
Comp Cams 260H camshaft and timing chain
993 iron heads w/1.94 intake valves
'80-'81 Z28 aluminum intake
Stock quadrajet
Carter M6624 Fuel Pump
MSD Super HEI Module #8364
MSD HEI Coil #8225
Summit #G5212 Advance Curve Kit
Z28-style split dual exhaust w/cat
Borg-Warner Super T-10 4-speed
Ram clutch
Hurst Competition Plus shifter
Competition Engineering subframe connectors
Energy Suspension poly body bushings
Z28 front frame braces
GM F41 suspension
SouthSide Machine Lift Bars
12-Bolt Rearend (Casting #3969341NF), 3.55 gears, positraction
BF Goodrich Radial T/A's - P235/60SR14 Front, P245/60SR14 Rear
'80/'81 Z28 Air Induction hood
Alpine/Pioneer audio

List of things I added during winter 2009:

Engine:
Had the Qjet rebuilt by SMI to State 2 specs
Eddy Performer intake (cleaned-up ebay piece)
Comp Cams 980 valvesprings, new valve seals
Relocate oil filter (with parts from my first Camaro)
Alan Grove Components mid-mount alternator bracket & power steering pump bracket
New NPD coolant recovery tank
Pertronix HEI Cap & Rotor Kit
MSD Super Conductor 8.5mm ignition wires
Autolite #24 spark plugs
NPD 80 amp alternator (from an '80 Camaro)
Refurbished engine & headlight wiring harnesses
Energy Suspension poly engine & trans mounts
CVR ProTorque starter #5323 w/ARP bolts
Summit 1⅝" coated headers w/ARP bolts, Percy's Seals-4-Good dead soft aluminum gaskets
Flowmaster #17149 dual exhaust
Perma-Cool electric fans, relay & adjustable temp wiring kit

Trans & Rearend
RAM Powergrip clutch kit
ARP flywheel & pressure plate bolts
SpeedDirect.com clutch linkage
Hurst Pit Pack (shifter bushings)
Weld axle tubes & reinforce spring perches
Neapco Brute Force U-joints

Suspension & Brakes
Pro-Touring F-Body Stop Flex kit (subframe connectors, G-braces, solid body bushings & swaybar brace)
Energy Suspension poly front control arm bushings
Energy Suspension poly front swaybar bushings & end links
Energy Suspension poly leaf spring bushings & spring pads
Energy Suspension poly rear swaybar bushing & mount kit
Bilstein Shocks
Hurst Roll Control
Rebuilt stock brakes w/stainless lines, braided hoses, Hawks HPS Ferro-Carbon pads

Miscellaneous
American Grafitti AC delete box
Fiber Concepts L-88 fiberglass hood
Weld Racing Draglite wheels, 15x7 front, 15x8 rear
BFG Radial T/A tires, P235/60SR15 front, P275/60SR15 rear (might go with Hoosier QT rear tires)
New stereo (from my GN) - Kenwood KDC-217 Head Unit, MTX 4122 amp, Kenwood KFC-1386s door speakers, MTX 8302 amp, Kenwood KFC-6508s 6x9 rear deck speakers
Auto Meter Ultra-Lite 5" Memory Tach w/2-stage shift lite, Ultra-Lite oil pressure & water temp gauges 

Mmmmm....smells like new parts!

Summit 1⅝" Coated Headers

 Flowmaster #17149 Exhaust

 Energy Suspension Poly Engine & Trans Mounts

CVR Pro-Torque 1.9HP Mini-Starter

T/A Performance Rear End Girdle

Trunk Mount Battery Setup

American Graffiti AC Delete Box 

Edelbrock Performer #2101 after I cleaned & painted it. Got it off ebay for $40. With shipping and restoration expenses, it was a total investment of $93. Not a bad deal.

It'll pick up some power with the rebuilt Qjet, new intake, ignition, headers & pipes, and sound pretty damn cool too. If it picks up 25-30 horsepower, I'll be happy. 

Pics from before the resto...see what I mean about greasy? LOL

I was originally looking for a strippo car with no power accessories (like my first '77 Camaro), but this one is loaded with AC, power windows, power door locks, tilt wheel, cruise control, and even electric trunk release, and its HEAVY! Honestly, driving the Grand National with all its creature comforts kind of spoiled me, so maybe its a good thing that this car is loaded up. The AC and cruise control are got ditched....I can live without those...but the rest of the power accessories will stay. I took a lot of weight out of the car, and those mods are outlined on the progress pages.

Future Plans

As for what I'm eventually going to do for REAL power...I've got some ideas. My ’87 Grand National had shift points of 5200RPM, and even though it made shitloads of torque, I didn't really care for the diesel-like shift points (or the buzzy exhaust note...otherwise it was a kick-ass ride). I want something that turns some RPM.

Drivetrain

Depending on the engine combo, the trans will be a TKO600 or T56 with a Ram Powergrip HD clutch and a steel flywheel. The rearend is gonna get Mark Williams axles and 3.73 or 4.10 gears this winter, and the rearend will be complete.

Interior

The interior will get done over this winter...the light blue just isn't cutting it. It'll be stock appearing, but it'll be black and gray (a la the GN interior), I'll install the Kenwood/MTX stereo I took out of the GN before I sold it, and fab up a custom gauge cluster for the Auto Meter Ultra-Lite gauges I had in the GN. I'll redo all the wiring because the stock wiring is now over 30 years old, and I have to add electric fuel pump wiring, mount the battery in the trunk, wire the oil cooler fan and mount switches for everything in the console.

Engine Ideas

Gen 1 Power

A nice old school combo I'm considering is a naturally aspirated, carbureted Gen 1 small block...no fuel injection or turbos. Something with a really shitty idle and incredible mid and top-end power - something like I would have built for my first ’77 Type LT. I had plans to build a snotty 350 similar to a '70 LT-1 but with modern top-end parts (heads, cam & intake), but I happened to stumble upon a deal and picked up a virgin CGR-code -511 casting 4-bolt main 400 small block and crank from a local dirt track racer. I'd build it up with 5.7" rods, Ross or SRP pistons for an 11:1-11.5:1 compression, a rowdy Lunati Street/Strip #401C3LUN Oval Track solid flat tappet cam, AFR 210cc CNC-ported heads, Scorpion roller rockers, Edelbrock Super Victor intake, SMI-prepped Holley 850 w/annular boosters, and a Performance Distributors HEI ignition. Shooting for 550-575HP, 6500RPM max. I could build a NASTY 377 small block with the 1182 forged 350 crank I had already bought, but I don't see the need to sacrifice the cubic inches. It would rev a lot higher and make killer top-end power, but on the street, the extra torque from the 3.75" stroke of the 400 crank will be more useful.

400 block & crank

GM 1053 Forged Steel #1182 Crankshaft

 Gen IV Power

These days, if you're restoring a GM car, you'd have to be a damn fool to not at least consider an LSx engine. There is no doubting the power, reliability and efficiency of these modern engines. On top of that, it's dirt cheap to build one that runs like a motherf*cker...which got me on the idea of a 450HP modded L33/LM4 Vortec 5.3L aluminum block engine. Why stop at 5.3L though? Now I'm thinking that if I'm gonna go LSx, it'd be a shame not to go with something bigger, even though the 5.3's can make killer power. The cost isn't too much more in the scope of things. So, now my mind is currently on this...

Heheh...in stock form it makes 403HP and 417lbs/ft of torque. Add a cam, headers, LS3 intake and a custom tune, and >500HP is all but guaranteed. Bet your ass I'll keep the VVT (Variable Valve Train) technology already in the L92. It doesn't make sense to not take advantage of it, especially since it'd cost more to remove it. I still love the old-school SBC's & BBC's, but to build an an all-aluminum light weight one that makes the power of an LSx while matching its reliability, driveability and most importantly, PRICE...good luck. I don't see it happening. On top of that, it's fuel injected, which is great for efficiency & fuel mileage...and that's something to consider in this day and age. Gas ain't cheap, and who knows what will happen to the price in the future! The swap itself isn't exactly cheap, but it's not as expensive as most people think...and the end result would be MORE than worth it, considering all the benefits.

One thing I'm really proud of: I ABSOLUTELY REFUSED to put Chinese-sourced parts in my American musclecar! I researched sources before I bought their parts to ensure that the part was Made in the USA. The only parts that aren't US-made are the starter (Canadian) and the radiator (Mexican). I did re-use a lot of original parts off the car (or the spare parts in my stash from my first '77) if they were useable, but 95% of the materials I used to refinish the parts were done with Made in USA materials (consumables, paint, etc). I'd like to see a trend towards this strategy by anyone building an American performance car, whether or a new or old one. I implore everyone to follow this, no matter how you build your car...Retro-Modded, Pro-Street, Pro-Touring, dead-nuts stock or all-out race car.

THE TIME IS NOW TO TRULY HELP THE UNITED STATES ECONOMY, ITS WORKERS AND CITIZENS. BUILD YOUR CAR AMERICAN!

Page 1: The Story
Page 2: Mods & Plans
Page 3: Pics w/Convo Pros & Hoosiers
Page 4: The Inspiration – Why I sold my GN and am building this car
Page 5: Restification Progress Reports - Page 1
Page 6: Restification Progress Reports - Page 2
Page 7: My '05 Z71 Tahoe 4x4 & Miscellaneous Stuff