StopTech 6 Piston ST-60 Caliper upgrade
Upgraded from 4 piston St-40s to these new 6 pistons!
Setrab Oil Cooler/Mocal Thermostat/Hayden Power Steering Fluid Cooler
Notes: Part Numbers
1. Setrab Oil Cooler, 25 row, 13.0"x7.5"x2.0", -10 AN fitting,
Setrab part number #50-625-7612.
2. Mocal 180*F Thermastic Sandwich adapter, 20mm filter (Nissan) with 1/2" NPT fittings.
Mocal Part number# SP1FT.
3. 90 degree bends for a hose Size 10. These are for the Mocal Sandwich adapter.
1/2" NPT: 829010ERL.. you need two of these.
4. -10AN, the swivel hose end that attach to the Setrab cooler are:
-10AN, 90Degree: 809110ERL
-10AN, 120Degree: 812010ERL
5. 6feet of the EARLS prolite nylon hose size 10, i dont have the part number for that...
6. Hayden Ulta-Cool Trans-cooler Model #401
7. 9 feet of 3/8" Power Steering Hose from Kragen.
Here's the install:
This is where i wanted to place the Oil cooler, where the stock windshield washer fluid resevoir was.
Richey @ Technosquare fab'd a mounting bracket for the Setrab
Next up we went ahead to make an airguide out of aluminum to force air into the oil cooler. this will would double as more support.
Next up, we run the hoses to the top of the oil cooler
Then we attach the cooler to the engine using the Mocal Thermostat Sandwich adapter.
Pre-Mocal Image:
After:
Ok. Since air is flowing from the front of the bumper, its gotta go somewhere, so we need to cut up my stock fender liner with holes to let the air exit.
Now that the oil cooler is finished, onto the Power Steering.
We run 3/8" power steering hose (about 9 feet total) from the stock power steering resevoir to the front of the car, mounting it on my crash beam using supports fab'd and then run it to the back of my intercooler. I spray paint the Hayden black to make it match and that's it.
we slap on the bumper, and here it is:
Oil cooler:
PS Cooler:
and overall shot.. done!
Cusco Adjustable A-Arms
Cusco RS Limited Slip Differential with NISMO diff cooling plates (and parts u need)
Sparco Wind Tunnel Tested (WTT) F1 Helmet
Full CF wing :)
install
Bling Bling Shots :)
Notes:
DANG. it is hard to install a stupid wing. Stock wing is very hard to take off, especially with the double stick tape. First remove the plastic covering under the hatch. Then there are two 10mm bolts that hold the stock wing on, then using a piece of plastic or cardboard in a shape of a wedge, lift up on one corner of the wing and CUT the double stick tape with either a long and sharp knife, razor blade or putty knife but be sure not to scratch your paint! Once you remove the wing (estimate about 1~2 hours) its time to remove the tape residue. I used GOOF OFF, which you can find at Home Depot for about $6. work sections not the whole thing. Pour the Goof Off on a soft towel and work it into the residue, the tape will turn into a snot-looking goo and will slowly rub off. You will get that crap everywhere so be patient and wipe down as you go along. This took me around 3 hours to complete and I made a ton of blisters on my fingers. Wear latex gloves if you want. I had to mark out where I wanted to drill for my pedestals, ALWAYS measure bottom of the hatch and top of the hatch to get an accurate mid point on the hatch and measure from center out. The hatch is three layers thick in some places (closer to the glass) so be sure you have the right tools (metal hole cutting bits and a powerful drill) and just work up the size. For the underside, you have to make room for your tools! So be careful not to punch through the surface of the hatch. Measure TWICE cut ONCE.
Sparco EVO2 Race Seat Installed!
(some older ones)
TechnoSquare Custom 5 point Roll Bar install
Some install notes:
I decided to weld in the roll bar for added rigidity. From these picts above, you can see the floor of the Z peeled back and the base plates being welded onto the frame. the first pict you will see the main roll bar being built. These are made out of steel and will be welded in place. The one main diagonal has two harness support beams, with the bracing for the main bar being welded into the stock rear strut tower brace. I am mounting my I/O port camera mount on the diagonal. Check out that clearance with the roof! ZERO!!! its all the way to the top! :) niceeee..
My Friend Brian @ TechnoSquare and his CRAZY Driftcar-Z :)
Notes on Brian's Car:
Varis CF rear Hatch, Varis CF hood, FULL Cusco 6 point roll cage, Recaros.. etc etc.. too much to list! This was before sending the car to SEMA 2k4.
2k4 Driver Side Kneepad Insert & Nismo Shoulder pads
B&M Short Throw Shifter
Some install pictures, this is my friend Garett. He's an engineer at B&M Racing.. we went to UCLA together :)
Some install notes:
The top part of the stock shifter is press fit onto the portion that is connected to the shift linkage... so if you're trying to take of the stock knob, and it's not moving.. chances are it's actually the stock shifter rod that's rotating.. you've already broken it, but it shouldn't pop off.. its actually has about 2.5 inches of metal left before it toally pops off.. dont worry about screwing up your tranny. my car shifts fine after this boo boo. If you're going to swap the shifter.. i suggest taking the whole assembly OFF the car to change the shifter/knob.. it only take about 15 minutes to take the whole thing off and then you can do it on a bench with a vise. The shift linkage is held in place by a bolt! its not going to rotate / twist it with a few hard turns....nor is it going to internally screw up anything, unless you shove the rod back and forth violently, even still... the warning from Nissan about removing the stock knob and/or shifter is to prevent your stock shifter breaking into two...
NOT MINE but cool: DC Sports Headers
HKS Super Sequential Blow off Valve
Some Install notes:
HKS makes a 50mm and a 65mm steel flange. and a 60mm aluminum flange for the HKS SSQV. i used a 50mm steel flange and shaved the opening to meet flush with my pipe that goes from the intercooler to the MAF. you will need your body shop to weld on the flange at an angle that is easy to access. I placed it the way i did to 'hide' it somewhat and blow back into the filter.
Defi BF & V.S.D. (heads up display install)
Some install notes:
There is no single 'tach' signal from the Z ecu. the CAN system on the car utilizes a networking system. the way the tachometer on the Z works is that it's getting all 6 injector signal pulse signals and sending all six to the multi-cluster near the steering wheel. there is no way of pulling the RPM signal from the car unless you convert all 6 signals into one. one way of doing this is using the Greddy eManage RPM adapter. i have this unit, but i have yet to try it on the Z to make the heads up display work properly. I will be researching this soon.
UPDATE 11/29/05. Defi had released their Version 2.0 of the DEFI Control Unit II box. this includes a single cylinder operation which WILL work for our CAN-based 350z. just set it to 1 cylinder, tap the ECU for RPM signal to the first injector signal pulse and thats it. we now have RPM! no need for the Greddy RPM adapter! yay!!!
Custom 60mm Gauge pod prototype
Cusco Sway Bar Installation
My front suspension setup.. gotta love those stoptechs :)
This is the "stiffest setting" for the front sways.
RS*R ExMag GT II Cat Back Exhaust System & JIC Ypipe
Sparco EVO2 Race Seat w/ Schroth 5point harness
TEIN Flex w/ EDFC
TechnoSquare Test Pipes
These Replace the stock Pre-Cats
TechnoSquare Inc. Tuning Images
The following are images that were taking along during the tuning processes.. You can see the laptop that is plugged into the Diagnostics port, that is how we upload the new ECU program into the car...
We are testing several exhaust designs to optimize the ECU.. but it turns out, the stock exhaust so far is the better of the three.. On the left, Stock, in the Middle, a Magnaflow Exhaust (we chose against this one), and a Racing exhaust on the right (straight pipe, SUPER loud ~110db at WOT)
A comparison between a new Ypipe (on the left) and the Stock Ypipe (on the right)...
Stock 350Z airbox modifications
Cutting it up!
Check out how small the stock velocity stack is!
G35 Coupe Stock Intake
as you can see the intake inlet, this is highly restrictive. probably why the G35 has less HP compared to the Z from the Factory..
The Second inlet reduces noise of the intake but subsequently reduces hp as well.
This Resonator box also is to help reduce the noise of acceleration and acts as a collector for the air during high rpm flows.
Verifying which ECU version you have
As you can see on my Track ECU, there is the letter "PC" on the sticker... you should check out which version you are...
This is how to remove the paneling to get to the ECU.. you do NOT have to remove the ECU to check the sticker!
TechnoSquare Inc. ECU DYNO CHARTS!
well, here are some DynoJet Graphs that i promised a while back... these are DYNO JET-brand dynos, which often companies take as the 'baseline' measurements...
First graph shown here is a BONE STOCK Track 350z (i.e. Stock Cats, Stock Ypipe, Stock Airbox, Stock Exhaust) in the color RED and then with ONLY the ECU modification in GREEN...
From closer inspection of the Red versus Green, we have a PEAK horsepower gain of roughly 7hp at 6200. At 5200 rpms, we have a gain of over ~12 hp and very strong torque gains over stock all the way to redline.....
i must emphasis again, this is just with the ECU modification alone (the ypipe and test pipes were removed and changed back to stock...)
This graph will show the differences in just adding a simple velocity-stacked intake (similar to the JWT pop charger) that we made in house as a test..
RED is the 350z Track with ONLY the ECU as the modification, and the GREEN line is with ECU AND Intake.
From closer inspection of the Red versus Green, we have a PEAK horsepower gain of roughly 2hp at 6250. and a gradual gain throughout... but a moderate torque curve throughout as well..
Time ran out at the dyno, and we will pull again with the Test Pipes and Ypipes as addons...
