2006 Accord 2.4L TL Rear Sway Bar Install
Liability Disclaimer: This job can be done by a novice �weekend mechanic� but it is important to observe safety precautions and be aware that serious damage or injury could result to yourself or components on the car. Proceed at your own risk. This procedure worked for me but I cannot guarantee the process or that the results will be the same for everyone.
This procedure was done on a 2006 Accord 2.4L EX-L 5-speed Sedan. It should be the same for all Accord models (sedan and coupe) from 2003 - 2006 but I cannot confirm this. Also, 6 cylinder models have a dual exhaust with a second muffler on the driver side which will make access slightly harder. Additionally, there is a clearance issue with an exhaust bracket on the 4 cylinder models which can be alleviated and is covered in this instruction.
Good luck and enjoy the results!
Qty 1, 52300-SEP-A03, 17mm Stabilizer Spring (Sway Bar)
Qty 2, 52306-SEP-A02, Stabilizer Bushings
Qty 2, 52308-S3M-A00, Holder
Light, PB Blaster, Anti-Seize Compound, Torque Wrench, 14mm open ended wrench, 5mm allen wrench, 12mm socket, socket wrench, socket extension, 10inch long section of 1inch pipe, towels (not shown), and safety glasses (not shown).
� The car can remain on level ground and does not need to be raised.
� Use the safety glasses to keep chemicals, dirt, and flecks of rust out of your eyes.
� Work in a clean, dry area and make sure that you have adequate lighting. Use a shop light as needed so you can see what you�re working on.
� Make sure the car has not been driven! You will be working near exhaust components and they may be hot.
Where is the sway bar?
From the rear of the car, here is the view from the driver�s side:
Purple Arrow � Sway Bar
Red Circle � End link where sway bar is connected to suspension
Blue Circle � Sway bar bushing and holder
Yellow Arrows � Rear suspension arms (or links)
Green Arrow � Shock absorber
To give you an idea of how much room is under the car without raising it, here is a bottle of washer fluid. There�s still plenty of room above it.
Closer view of the rear components:
Purple Arrow � Sway bar
Orange Circle � End Link where sway bar connects to suspension
Blue Circle � Sway bar bushing and holder
Yellow Arrows � Suspension arms
Close up of end link where sway bar connects:
Yellow Arrow � Sway bar
Blue Arrow � One end of suspension end link
Orange Circle � Shows where end link threads go through the sway bar
Red Arrow � End link threads; Also, the 5mm allen wrench goes into the end of the threads to hold them in place during removal and installation
Purple Arrow � 14mm nut that goes on the end link threads and holds the sway bar securely to the end link.
Removing the sway bar:
1. Put on the safety glasses.
2. Place towels on the ground under each end link.
3. Soak the end links (orange circle above) with the PB Blaster. This will help loosen the nut even on newer cars. My 2006 Accord is less than 2 months old with only 900 miles. I originally did not use the PB Blaster and I could not budge the nut. I suggest using it from the get go to help keep things moving.
4. Use the towels to wipe the end links. Set the towels aside.
Referring to the above picture:
5. Use the close ended side of the 14mm wrench to crack the nut. (purple arrow) Using the close ended side first will reduce the chances of stripping the nut. The red arrow is the sway bar. The orange arrow is the suspension end link. The yellow arrow is a suspension arm.
6. On the driver side, to loosen the nut, you will swing the 14mm wrench counter clock wise so that you are pushing it towards the front of the car.
7. After the nut is cracked, remove the wrench from the nut.
8. Now the 5mm allen wrench and the 14mm open ended wrench must be used together to remove the nut.
9. Insert the 5mm allen wrench into the tip of the end link threads. (blue arrow)
10. While holding the allen wrench, use the open ended side of the 14mm wrench to continue loosening the nut. (Note: in the above picture the close ended side is used with the allen wrench for photographing purposes only. The close ended side was able to hold the wrench in place while the picture was taken.)
11. Tip: When removing the nut on the driver side, allow the allen wrench to come into contact with the suspension arm as in the picture (green circle). This will help to hold it in place so you can concentrate on using the 14mm wrench to loosen the nut.
12. After the nut is removed, set it someplace safe. Do not remove the end link threads from the sway bar yet. Leave them in so that the bar will not fall when you take off the bushings in a moment. Remove the wrenches and go over to the passenger side.
13. Locate the end of the sway bar and suspension endlink on the passenger side. On the 4 cylinder models, there�s a little less room to work because of the muffler � but it is still plenty accessible.
14. Use the close ended side of the 14mm wrench to crack the end link thread nut.
15. Pull the wrench counter clockwise towards the back of the car this time.
16. After the nut is cracked, remove the wrench from the nut.
17. Now the 5mm allen wrench and the 14mm open ended wrench can be used together to remove the nut.
18. Insert the 5mm allen wrench into the tip of the end link threads.
19. While holding the allen wrench, use the open ended side of the 14mm wrench to continue loosening the nut.
20. Tip: Remember to let the allen wrench come into contact with the suspension arm. This will help to hold it in place so you can concentrate on using the 14mm wrench to loosen the nut.
21. After the nut is removed, set it someplace safe. Do not remove the end link threads from the sway bar yet. Leave them in so that the bar will not fall when you take off the bushings in a moment. Remove the wrenches and continue.
22. Using the 12mm socket and extension, remove the two bushing holders (one on each side of the car)
Below: Yellow arrow � sway bar. Green arrow � bushing. Purple arrow � bushing holder. Red arrows � holder bolts.
23. After both holders are removed, set them aside. You can leave the bushings on the bar. (If the holders do not readily come off the bushings, be careful when taking them off. You may move the bar enough that it will come out of the end links and the bar may fall on you.)
24. Hold the sway bar with your hands while pushing the end link threads out of the ends of the sway bar. The end links will pivot towards the outside of the car. Give the threads a firm push so they slip out of the ends of the sway bar.
25. Once the threads are clear, carefully maneuver the sway bar to take it out from underneath the car.
26. On 4 cylinder models, the new sway bar will come into contact with the exhaust hanger to the left of the muffler. In the below picture, the yellow arrow points to the stock sway bar. The orange line is about where the new sway bar will go. Note that it is routed differently � it will go below the sub frame piece rather than behind it and will come into contact with the upper exhaust mounting point shown with the blue arrow.
27. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. YOU ARE ABOUT TO FORCIBLY ALTER A COMPONENT ON YOUR VEHICLE. You may want to skip steps 28 and 29 and try to mount the bar first to see if there are clearance issues.
28. The tips of the exhaust mounting hooks are flanged so the rubber hangar does not slip off. Remove the rubber hangar from the top mounting point using your fingers by pulling firmly on the rubber piece. Leave the bottom mounting point on but turn the rubber hangar downwards to get it out of the way for the time being.
29. Using the pipe, bend the hangar down � to � of an inch. Put one end of the pipe on the upper exhaust mounting point. Push the pipe down and to the driver side to move the mounting point. Reattach the rubber hangar to the mounting point. Tip: Don�t hold the rear bumper for leverage. Not only is it too flexible but dirt will be loosened and can get into your eyes. Position your feet against a wall or the legs of a sturdy workbench to help leverage yourself to move the pipe and bend the hangar. This step may have to be repeated if there is still a clearance issue when the new bar is installed.
30. Assemble the new sway bar. Attach the bushings to the bar on either end and slip on the holders. There is a cut in the bushings so that you do not have to slide them on from the ends. It does not matter which way the cut is facing when it is on the car as the holder will securely keep it closed and hold it to the car.
31. Carefully maneuver the bar into place under the car. It will only fit one way. Refer to the above picture with the orange line. If the bar does not route where the orange line indicates while the ends of the sway bar are near the end link threads, the bar must be flipped. If you are having trouble positioning the bar, it probably needs to be flipped.
32. Hold the bar with one hand and use the other hand to guide the end link threads into the ends of the sway bar.
33. Position the bushing holders as close as possible to their bolt holes on the body. Be careful because the end link threads will most likely slip out while you are positioning the holder. Push them back in as needed.
34. Look at the clearance on the exhaust mounting point. If you cannot comfortably fit a finger between the sway bar and the mounting point, remove the bar and use the pipe to bend the mounting point some more. A finger width is all that is needed. The bushing holders will keep the sway bar from moving vertically but it is important that the bar is not resting against the exhaust mounting point.
35. Repeat steps 27 through 34 until there is adequate clearance with the exhaust mounting point.
36. After any issues with the exhaust mounting point are resolved, position the sway bar on the car again making sure that the end link threads are in the ends of the sway bar.
37. Install the end link nuts by hand for now to hold the sway bar up while securing the bushing holders.
38. Dab some anti-seize compound on the end link threads and the threaded holes in the body where the bushing holder bolts will go.
39. Install the bushing holder bolts and tighten them by hand as much as possible. Use the 12mm socket and extension to tighten the bolts firmly. Be careful to not over tighten and strip the threads!
40. Using the 5mm allen wrench and open ended 14mm wrench, tighten the end link nuts on both sides. Tip: Remember to let the allen wrench rest against the suspension arm to help hold it in place.
41. Tighten the nuts snuggly with the 14mm wrench. Use the torque wrench to tighten to 28 lb-ft.
42. Put away the tools, get cleaned up and take the car for a test drive!!
43. I reccommend getting under the car and inspecting the job after a week of driving. Ensure that the connections are tight and double check the bar for signs of rubbing / contact.