This has been a pain in my ass for a while now, and no matter what I did it just wouldn't get better. I tried to change the plugs and wires, I've replaced many sensors, and I replaced my coil packs. In the end it turned out that it was the whole Ignition control Module!! I was able to order a replacement from Trans Am Creations The whole thing was only like $40-$45 and it installs very easy. MAke sure you disconnect the negitive battery cable. I used zip ties because at the time I had no other way to mark my wires and I put one on each wire for what number it lined up with on the coil pack post(each coil pack has two number on it) then I used a 1/2" socket and took off the first bolt on the very front of the assembly, then with the wires removed I could get to the two side bolts and pulled it out a little, there was a small bolt on the back of it holding the wire harness in place, I used a 7mm socket for that and the assembly came right out. Replacing the assembly was very easy and once I connected the wires and the battery I started the car and it ran smooth!! It was just like the day I Bought it!!
Headlight Gear Replacement
Here are some pictures of the headlight motor gear install that I had to do on my passenger side. When the factory nylon gear stripped all kinds of strange things started to happen to my car. When I would turn off my headlights they would make a loud buzzing sound for around 30 seconds. When I would arm and disarm my alarm my headlights would go up and down with the parking light flash. And the buzzing sound would happen. Also when I would turn my parking lights on (not the DRL's but when I would turn the switch) the headlights would come up too. After installing the new gear from Brent Franker http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/headlightfix/index.htm all of the problems where fixed!
The headlight motor getting ready to be pulled out.
Here is the metal gear I ordered from Brent Franker
Here is the headlight motor all pulled apart.
This is the old factory nylon gear.
Once I got the gear out I found that the previous owner of my car must have taken the gear out and tried rotating the gear for a quick fix. However they didn't put the motor back together too well because there was rust on the metal inside.
Trouble With Vents
One day when I was driving in the summer I noticed that the air from my AC would not blow out of my vents anymore. No matter what setting I set my temperature control switch to the air would just blow out of my defroster. And to make matters worse I could not change my settings away from AC. So I had to remove my AC relay to keep it from running non stop. At the same time I noticed that my cruise control stopped working. I tried to look in my chiltons manual to find out what might be wrong with them. The book told what the problems would be, but did not tell me where the parts would be, or even what they look like. This was my first time ever dealing with any kind of vacuum problems. But after doing some searching under the hood the problem turned out to be a small cheaply made plastic canister that had three vacuum hoses attached to it. When I disconnected the hoses the plastic canister just fell apart. So I went to checkers and bought a connector that would connect all three hoses and the vents and the AC started to work the way they should! The cruise control is not working yet, but I'm working on getting that fixed now too! The canister has a hose that goes to the cruise control so I'm going to pull that apart and see if its collapsed or clogged somehow. I'll post pictures showing where everything is and what the new part I bought looks like very soon.
The first thing I did was unscrew the panel under the dash under the steering column. Then I looked for the bunch of wires that go to the headlight controls. Some cars are prewired for foglights. But though mine had the wires, they had no power to them. So what I did was test the wires to find the constant power wire to the headlight controls and I marked it. Next I went to the front of the car and I disconnected the battery. keeping the hood open I took the wire that gives the foglights power and ran it through the firewall. There is a screw above a box connected to the firewall (on the drivers side). I took out the screw and I ran my wire through that hole. On the other side I just grabbed it and pulled it in so I could plug it into the foglight switch. I bought some splicing harnesses from Walmart that came in really handy. I put the harness over the yellow wire that I had marked before, and then I put the red wire (the switch power wire) into it. And I used the pliers to squeeze the harness together (its self splicing). Next I took the black wire that came in my kit and I connected it to the metal under the dash (I'll try to get a picture where exactly). And then I ran that wire over to the switch. Now I plugged in the red, white, and black wires into the switch, and I connected the battery to see if the switch had power. Next I turned off the switch, and I got under the front of the car. I used a pliers to remove the push fasteners that hold the bottom of the front bumper cover on the car (there are 3 of them). Pulling the bottom part down I could see the back of the black inserts that I would later mount the foglights in. I did my best to line and level the lights backing tape the best I could and stuck it to the front of the inserts. Then I could see exactly were to drill the holes at for the lights. I drilled two small holes in each insert for the screws that would hold the lights on. And I used a bigger bit to drill a larger hole in each insert to run the two wires for each light through. Next I took apart the metal connecting frame for the foglights. And I ran the wires for each light through the hole in the middle of them (instead of them coming out the sides). I pushed the wires through the holes and let the lights hang there for just a second. The white wire that I told you about had a connecter on it that allowed for two wires to be connected to it. So what I did is ran it down past the battery (above the drivers side front wheel and I pulled it over to the front to the foglights. I took both white wires from the foglights and plugged them into this wire. Next I took the black wires and ran them up the front of the cover to where the headlight motor grounds are screwed into. And I turned on the foglight swithch to check that the lights worked and they do! So I just put the housings back together for the foglights and I screwed them into place in the inserts (still need to adjust them). Now that I was all finished with the lights it was time to move on to the foglight switch.
After I removed the lower dash panel we drilled the hole for the foglight switch. The switch was just a cheap one I bought from walmart for like $4. The good part about the switch was that we just needed a round hole to mount the switch. The bad part was the way the switch wouldn't fit into the hole with the wires attached to it. And there was not much room to try to plug them in once the switch was in place. So all I did was connect the wires, and use a needle nose pliers and gave it a gentle squeeze. And with a little bit of pressure they fit through the hole. I would have drilled a bigger hole, but I was a bit worried the back of the switch would not fit right, and the switch would be loose. Now that the wires were through, and the switch was in place I connected the red power wire, the white wire to the foglights and the black ground. It wasn't the factory look I was wishing for, but in the end it didn't look bad at all. I put everything back together and here is one more little project completed!
Below are some pictures of the lights on! I'll add some better ones when I get a chance.
Clear Turn Signals
Finally after a couple weeks of waiting my clear turn signals arrived! They were very easy to install, but before I got them I kind of wondered how they went together so I decided to show everyone how they are installed.
Here they are! New in the box!
The first thing I did when I started this little project was turn the headlights on and unplug the headlight motors so I could keep the lights up without having to keep them on. I could have done this by turning them up by hand, but this was just a bit quicker. With the lights up you will see the four screws (two on each side of each light) that you will need to remove to get the headlight bazel off. With it off its much easier to get into the turn signals.
Here is what you will see when your looking at the turn signal housings from the back side. (I actually took this picture with the bazels on)
There are three screws on each of the turn signal housings. Two of the three are very easy to get to, they are right on the back side. The third is a little bit harder to see but still not very difficult to get to. Its in the middle and comes from the bottom side of the housing to hold it in place to the bumper cover. If you feel around for them you will find them with no trouble. They all use the same driver so there is no worries about switching to any other tools.
View with out the turn signals in.
Here are the old and the new signals together, you can really see how dramatic the difference is in them!
Putting the new turn signal lenses in was pretty much the same as taking them out, just remember to put the front of them in first, and then the back side, they will fit perfectly in place!
Here are some views of the old and new turn signals! This was a very easy install that only took about twenty minutes, and most of that time was spent taking pictures!
Here are the old turn signals with all the lights off.
Here are some with the DRL's on.
And here are some of the lenses with the parking lights on.
Now its time to see them with the new lenses in! I didn't have a lot of time to take good pictures, so these will be replaced as soon as I get the chance.
Here they are with the DRL's on!
Here they are with the parking lights on, they look a lot better in real life!
And here is a far view of each side! Thanks for checking them out!