Page 1. Introduction
Page 2. Engine Removal
Page 3. The Swap kit
Page 4. Engine/Tranny Purchase
Page 5. Engine Install
Page 6. The Paintjob
Page 7. Cooling & Exhaust
Page 8. Wiring, Clutch Hydraulics, Fuel
Page 9. Start-up, first drive
Page 10. Photoshoot
Page 11. Performance Results & Videos
Page 12. Conclusion

Wiring was something that I feared on the last V8 RX7, but after finding out how logical the job was, I went in with no worries this time around. I sent the engine harness to a fellow forum member who modified my harness for $100 and sent out my computer to www.pcmforless.com to delete the built in VATS (vehicle anti-theft system) and adjust a few settings.

The heavy gauge wiring was done with weight distribution in mind. Because the LS1/T56 weighs approximately 100 lbs more than a 13B-REW/Turbos/5speed, I chose to mount an Optima Red Top battery in the rear passenger's bin to essentially displace 100 lbs to the rear. From the Battery, 0 gauge wire was run external to the cabin up to the starter. From the starter, a 4 gauge wire is run to the charging stud of the alternator which follows to the main fuse block.

The remaining wiring was all small gauge work which was done in the area near the passengers feet.  In a nutshell; the wiring consists of a handfull of 12V constant and 12V switched connections to provide power to the GM CPU and sensors.  In addition, a fuel pump relay trigger wire is connected to the stock Mazda Relay and a Dakota Digital Speedometer Calibrator is wired in to change the GM wave frequency to the wave frequency the Mazda speedometer requires to read accurately.  It also is very handy for the car because the speedometer is easily calibrated for tire size changes and different differential gearing.  I also chose to wire in an OBDII connector so that error codes can be extracted and so that my CPU can be tuned.  Unfortunately, I never snapped a picture of this wiring; however, I would recomment to anyone to use solder and shrink wrap for every connection... it takes a bit longer but it's simply better than any other method.

Although easily used, I chose to NOT use the OEM Mazda oil pressure and water temp gauges as they are not linear, AKA they do not accurately display actual water temperatures and oil pressures.  Instead, I chose to use two autometer gauges in a dual gauge pod which is designed to directly snap into the Mazda center channel speaker hole... the following picture is obviously out of sequence ;), but it shows the aftermarket Autometer water temp and oil pressure gauge as well as the perfectly functioning speedometer.

 

The stock RX-7 fuel pump is only barely sufficient for the fuel demand of the LS1; to be safe I upgraded the pump to a direct replacement Denso fuel pump from a last-generation Toyota Supra.  The pump has similar performance numbers to the popular Walbro 255, but with does it much more reliably.  Here you can see the fuel pumps next to eachother... the only way you can tell them apart is by the part number!

I used a OEM fuel pressure regulator & fuel filter combined unit from a 2002 Corvette... the unit regulates the pressure to 58psi perfectly.  From this point, I used a single -6AN braided steel fuel line to the fuel rail, this made for a clean, reliable install and most importantly cool-looking install.  You can see the fuel line on the driver's side of the engine bay.

Fortunately, Mazda decided to use a hydraulic clutch similar to what was used for the T56.  The T56 system consists of a master cylinder, clutch line, and hydraulic throwout bearing.  Unfortunately, the capacity of the Mazda OEM clutch master cyliner is inadequate to disengage the clutch, so an aftermarket wilwood 7/8" brake master cylinder was used in it's place.  There were 3 modifications required to get this master cylinder to work:

1.  Modify the thread pitch to match the RX7 clutch pedal assembly.

2.  Increase the firewall hole diameter very slightly (done with a dremel tool).

3.  Use an adaptor plate to rotate the master cylinder to the vertical position from the stock 45* alignment; although this is technically not necessary, I found this to be essential for a clean install.

Because the stock clutch line is too short and difficult to modify, I used a 48" long -3AN Braided steel line with a GM clutch quick disconect at one end and a 3/8" banjo fitting at the other for the clutch line.

PICTURE HERE