How to do a 99/00 Honda Civic Front End Conversion on a 1992-1995 Honda Civic

Parts Needed:
Hood
Fenders
Core Support
Bumper
Headlights

STEP 1 - REMOVING YOUR STOCK PARTS.
1 - Take off your stock bumper, headlights, corner lights, hood, and fenders.
2. Put on the 99 civic hood, it bolts directly on with 4 bolts. Leave it propped open for now.
3. Remove the radiator off the core support. Disconnect the mounting bracket that is on your core support. Lift the radiator off and just let it hang there. So that no weight is on the core support, if you have AC then remove that as well.

STEP 2 - CUTTING AND DRILLING
1.You will then want to drill out all the spot welds from the stock core support, there are quite a few of them.
- They look like little circular indention�s. Drill them out with a drill bit which is a little bigger than the circle.
2. After drilling out all the spot welds there may be a few that are still connected a little. Other than that they core support should come off. Don�t be afraid to use tin snips and hack away at it.
3. Once the stock core support is off, use a grinder to clean up the places where the stock core support came off.
- Take your new core support and hold it up on the car. It helps to have a friend with this process. Put the new headlights in the core support with just the 2 upper bolts. Close the hood and match the headlights to the hood line as best as possible. Once this is accomplished have that friend keep it in the same position and either screw it, zip-tie, or tack weld it on there.
- However you want to hold it up on the car is fine. This is just to keep it there until you weld it on the car.
- On some of the conversions, like the 99/ 00 Civic front end on the CRX. The radiator brackets on the core support may need to be moved to accommodate for your radiator. This you will have to match up and weld of if necessary. But 94-Up Integras, 96/00 Civics and 92/95 Civics all have the same style radiators, so this step will not be needed on them.
5. You will want to weld the core support on in a few different places. Make sure the surface you will be welding on is showing bare metal.

STEP 3 - FENDER CUTTING, BENDING, AND WELDING.
1. Cut your stock fender a little more towards the headlight. If you look on your stock fender you will see a little tab where your fender liner attaches. Cut your line about a half inch in front of that tab.
- Cut the 99 fender about a inch behind (towards the door) that tab.
2. Use one or two bolts and put your cut stock fender back on. Take your cut fender you are using for the conversion and place it on top of your stock fender. Your goal here is to match it up with the headlight. Overlap your converting fender over your stock fender. The overlap only needs to be about � inches.
3. The converting fender will not have the same arc as your stock fender. You will need to do some bending and tweaking, so the arcs match up better. You can cut off the tab on the converting fender, it will not be needed since your stock fender has one.
4. Use some C-Clamps to hold the fenders together. Make any adjustments at this time.
Tips: Make sure the fender line follows the hood line is.
5. The bottom of the fender where the wheel arc is may be a little off. Don�t worry about this until your fender is welded.
Welding
6. You will want to remove all paint from the surface which you are about to weld. A half inch on either side of the cut will do just fine.
7. Use a wire feed welder and start at the top. Use the C-Clamps in the areas where the fenders are touching. This may require some welding and relocating the C-Clamps. But run a full bead down the fender.
8. After the front is welded you can remove the C-Clamps. Turn the fender over and weld the backside.
9. Cut off the excess (if there is any) on the fender, following you stock fenders wheel arc. If this piece needs a little welding after being cut then now is the time for it.
Grinding
10. Grind down the welds on the outside of the fender. You can get the weld pretty smooth by doing this.

STEP 4 - BONDO AND BODY WORK
1. Now you will want to start your bondo. Depending on how good your fender came out determines how much bondo you will need.
2. Make sure your fender is clean. Use some Acetone, or some type of degreaser to clean the surface you are going to fill.
3. Mix up a batch of bondo. The more hardener the faster it hardens. Use your putty knife/trowel to mix and apply the bondo. Put on a even coat and fade in that overlap in the fenders.You don�t want any thick edges in the bondo, it just makes more work to sand.
4. Wait till it dries enough to work with. I recommend using a 'cheese grater' to shave down the really high spots. If you don�t know what a 'cheese grater' is, tell someone at an automotive store what you are doing and they will point you in the right direction.
5. After shaving the high spots. Use some 36 or 40 grit sandpaper to do your sanding. Use a sanding block, and hand sand it! Continue the process of bondo and sanding until it takes better shape. Sand away at the bondo and repeat the sanding/bondo process untill the fenders are looking and feeling pretty smooth.
Tip: If your fender arcs or wheel-well arcs don�t match up you can create your own by applying bondo in those areas and shaping it.
This is what the area looks like after 2 coats of Bondo
Here is another Picute after 3 coats, continue this process.

GLAZING / SPOT FILLING AND SANDING
1. After you have made it this far, use some glaze/spot filler to get it perfectly smooth. Put the glaze on fairly light and even. Use some 80-grit sandpaper to do the sanding on the glaze. The glaze is a lot easier to sand than the bondo is.
2. Use a napkin on the bottom of your hand and run over the areas filled and check for low spots.
You can also mist on some flat black spray paint to the areas filled.
Then run over the area with the 80 grit sandpaper and the places that still show the spray paint are the low spots. Use glaze for these areas.
3. You can put back together your front end. Undercoat the backside of the fenders so that the welds do not rust!

I know its a bit much to take in all at once but it is a fairly simple process. Just follow these steps and everything should work out. Please do not email me with questions regarding the conversion, this is the information I have to offer so use this info for what it is worth. I will not do any conversions, please do not ask.

How To Install a JDM EG6 Cluster!
Heres how to do it so everything works properly

1. Remove your Stock Cluster
2. Remove the Plastic cover from the JDM cluster and the US cluster.
3. Remove the speedometer by unscrewing the 3 screws.

4. Remove the SRS control module (yellow plug) from the US cluster. There is a little tab that holds it in there, look diagnally right in the picture.

5. Place the SRS unit in the JDM cluster with NO MODIFICATION necessary. Simply plugs in.

To do the Cruise Control, repeat the process. The cruise control section is held in with 2 screws.

To get your SRS Light to show you must use the US bezel. What you can do is take the indicator light lenses out of the JDM cluster (ebrake, oil etc...) and put them in the US. The JDM ones look different. Think about it and it will come to you. Any questions just ask.

How to Install the JDM EG6 Climate controls.
There is alot of talk about how they won't work, JDM one is electric based and not cable. Well heres how to do it, its amazing what little you really need.

Removing your stock Climate Controls (CC).
1. Remove your Center cosole, Cup holder, Ashtray Assembly, and Head unit.
2. For those of you who have never done this, its quite easy. There are 3 screws holding the CC in, one on the bottom and two back near the grey plastic. They are tucked back and in there, Use a LONG phillips screw driver and take out those remaining two screws.
3. There are two plugs on the back, which you simply disconnect.
4. Look down by your glove box and you will see a cable running down to a metal dowell. Slide the end of the cable off of it, and bend the cable holding bracket down.
5. Remove the CC.

Breaking Everything Apart
1. On the bottom side of your US CC, there are 6 gold screws and one tiny one, remove them. The metal bracket comes off.

2. Undo the plastic wing nut that holds on the aluminum control arm, slide the arm off of the post. Unclip the other arm by squeezing the plastic pieces until the section slides out. Now you can remove your face plate. Make sure to lift the knob control arms off the little rail.
3. Use a small flathead screwdriver and take out the plate.
I need to wash my fingers, yuck!

Repeat this process with the JDM CC, it may be a little more tricky due to all the circuit boards, but the same principle applies! Break anything you want but the plate or the bulbs!

Installing
1. Okay now your ready to swap the plates over.
2. Remove the Amber bulbs and put them in your US CC. Thats the whole point of the JDM cluster isn't it. They pull right out!

3. Assemble all the screws and hardware.

Finished product!