More wet sanding and buffing. The masking tape is to protect the paint at the body contour. The garage is 26' by 40' and is equiped with 110V & 220V power, hot & cold running water, and 3 floor drains. Here are some recent engine bay pics. I finally finished rebuilding the heater box. I still need to rebuild the AC pump and locate some miscellaneous pieces such as AC hoses, brackets, and the electric fast idle switch. A previous owner thought it would go faster if he tore all that out. Here is the interior. I recently added a dash pad from Ultimate Rides and a custom Tach from Redline Gaugeworks. The tach fits where the clock was originally located. Redline also rebuilt and reconditioned all the gauges. I painted the car in sections to reduce vapor build up in the garage.Warning: Paint vapor will explode, so if you try this at home, don't use a household box fan in the window, as they are notorious for internal arcing.Also, unplug any electical appliances such as the garage door opener.The following photographs are at my former address. I have been working on this project so long I actually had a house built during the interim..... Above left is a picture of what a Mopar unibody car looks like when it is stripped to the frame.I often hear the term "frame off" restoration when referring to these cars. The only way to tear it down further, would be to start drilling welds! Above right is a picture of the firewall inside the passenger compartment. The visible horizontal line is from the original factory preservative that every E Body was dipped into prior to assembly. Master cylinder, booster, & proportioning valve all rebuilt by Master Power Brake (Mooresville, NC) . Stainless Steel brake & fuel lines by Finelines (Medina, Ohio). Steering box rebuilt by Steer & Gear (Columbus, Ohio). I replaced the torsion bars with Mopar Performance .920" diameter units. The balance of the front end was rebuilt using NAPA and Year One parts. Bearings provided by The Timken Company (Canton, Ohio).