Took a chill at the garage tonight. A cool night with a steady rain. . . good night to adjust the valves. Pulled valve cover and all necessary hardware to get to the valves and found that almost all of the valves were too loose - oops guess my first attempt to adjust the valves a couple of weeks ago was not to good. Guess that is why they were getting real noisy last week at the autox event.
I spent a long time with each intake and exhaust valve making sure they were all done as best as I could get to the spec gap. I started the car after re-assembly and it runs much quieter and seems to be much smoother.
There is still a flat spot just off idle so I decided to pull the intake system from air filter box to the intake manifold. I also pulled the idle control valve. I ran carb cleaner through all the parts and will assemble later this week and see if that was the cause of the flat spot.
Put all the Intake parts back in tonight. I sprayed carb cleaner in the idle control valve, air flow meter and the throttle body and cleaned them one more time before installation. After all parts back in place I started the car and it has never run better. When I fired the car up it started and ran smoother than it has since purchase. Didn't take it out for road test but the mystery flat spot is gone.
BTW the clue to resolution to the flat spot came from the latest issue of Bimmer mag. An E30 owner wrote in with a similar issue. The response form the mag was to pull the idle control valve and spray with carb cleaner. I sprayed the idle control valve, air flow meter and throttle body several times - that is until clear liquid came though instead of the brown funk initially.
No road test tonight as I need to leave it up on stands. I have one more project to complete before the next autox event. I ordered a short throw shifter kit earlier this week from BMA auto parts after seeing an ad in Bimmer mag. Looks good and the price was right. It should be here by the weekend. That is next weeks project.
The UPS truck dropped off my box on Thursday! The shift kit is here. Today I hope to install the short throw shifter in the car. I start in the cockpit by pulling knob, boot and the weather proof boot. The old shifter bushing cup is total slop and in many pieces. It is a wonder it even works. I then head under the car to pull the shifter selector rod off. It is quite a job getting the clips off what with drive shaft, exhaust and trans mounts in the way.
The pic below sums up the difficulty
I read the Bentley manual as well as the Pelican 101 Projects book prior to this install and that made all the difference in getting things done the first time and right.
The view from cardboard on concrete today . . .
The kit from BMA Auto was a great buy. It claims a 30% shorter throw, but it feels like more to me over the stock shifter. The shifts now are short, precise and accurate. It is much easier for "spirited" driving. I took a short road test and between the valve adjustment, cleaning the idle control valve, throttle body and air flow meter the car is running best that it ever has.
I have more work to do as I broke the bleed nipple off the clutch slave cylinder while trying to bleed the clutch today - shit. I will be ordering that part this week. I also noticed the expansion tank was wet after the "road test" and it is leaking from the Expansion Tank Coolant Level Sender unit. Oh well time to place another order with Pelican Parts.
And so another day at the garage, another successful project and one more fun road test.
Today I picked up a clutch slave cylinder and UPS delivered the new hose from Pelican Parts. Looks to be some fun time at the garage tonight. Pulled the old unit off following the Bentley and Pelican books with ease, however it is a bit challenging getting to that upper nut. The old hose to the master cylinder appears to want to be part of the final build as it will not, can't get it off at all. OK for now leave it in there. A bit unnerving doing the first slave cylinder bleed. I hit the pedal and it goes all the way to the floor - shit - did I screw it up??? I remember one of the manuals saying that 30 plus pedal strokes are required to build pressure. And yes they were right I pump the pedal many many times to finally get good pressure. I repeat the bleed pressure game about 6 times using my trusty length on 2x4 that manages to hold the pedal to the floor from the drivers seat. I then crawl under the car and release the bleeder valve. Then back to the cockpit and pump the pedal. Lather, rinse, repeat. Finally clear fluid through the slave cylinder and we are done. Good pressure and a much more fluid feel thru full pedal motion. Drop the car off the stands, remount wheels and off for a road test.
Yup all works well. The combination of new slave cylinder, new fluid, a bleed job, the short throw shift kit and new shifter bushings work just fine. Shifts are real nice now.
To Be Continued . . . . .