Vehicle Owner

Member ID: plymouth4evr

Location: Pittsburgh, PA

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Vehicle Info

1968 Chevrolet Chevelle

Bragging Rights

  • 1/4 Mile0 sec @ -1 mph
  • 0-600sec
  • Top Speed-1mph
  • HP-1
  • Weight-1lbs

Major Upgrades

  • turbo
  • nitrous
  • bore increase
  • port and polish
  • supercharger
  • extrude honed
  • stroke increase
  • engine swap

Ratings

    • Currently 3.6/5 Stars.

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Last updated: 13 hours ago

Hits: 2,269

William’s Chevrolet Chevelle
“Project 68”

  • Currently 3.5866666666666 /5 Stars.
23 guestbook comments

This is my 1968 Chevrolet Chevelle 300 2-door sedan car.

plymouth4evrs 1968 Chevrolet Chevelle

Production Year Calendar 1968
Chevelle 300 Deluxe 2-door sedan
8 Cylinder
Series Body Style 13227
Produced 2,919

BODY TYPE: Coupe
MILEAGE: 148,000
DATE OF OWNERSHIP: January 2007 - Present
NICKNAME: Project 68 (for now)

 

Update January 05, 2010:  Wow, it's certainly been a while since my update.  A few things have been done, but the main update is that I purchased a posi unit and rebuild kit for the rear end from my friends at Summit Racing.  Total cost with shipping came to $582.88.  Yes, that number is correct.  I got about $100 taken off the posi unit.  Score.  I probably won't do burnouts with this car, but it'd be nice to leave two tire treads behind instead of one.  So basically I paid about $600 to make soem noise and ruin rear tires.  Seriously?  Seriously.  Anyway, you all know how I love keeping tabs on the cost, so here it is, the new total is: ($6222.76+$582.88) equals $6805.64.  Almost $7K so far.  Sometimes I debate whether I should have bought a Chevelle for that price and been done with it.  Nah.  This way is a lot more fun!

Update November 20, 2009: Loosely installed the front shocks last night.  They are AC Delco brand.  I pulled off the stickers just because.  I need to tighten them down some more and that portion is done.  Next up will be the sway bar and the rest of the suspension.  Hoping to get that done this weekend.  I'd like to start setting up the brakes soon.  I need to look at a few more diagrams and pics for assembly reasons.

Update November 19, 2009: It took some research, but I finally managed to get the spring on the right side on in about an hour.  I learned a lot, and got a lot of ideas in order to safely and effectively install both coil springs.  I also reinstalled the left side coil spring and seated that properly.  This was probably the most challenging task to date in regards to restoring this car.  Both springs on the third attempt took 2.5 hours.  Third time's a charm.

Update November 18, 2009: A battle ensued as I wrestled one coil spring on the car last night.  So far, I've logged 8 hours for one spring.  But I learned a lot, so I am hoping the second goes in much easier.  The downside to the install is that I need to seat the spring properly.  I may have to take it apart, which is something I really don't want to do.

Update November 16, 2009: After 5 months of this project being idle, it was time to do some work.  I will do a little each day, no matter what mood I am in.  I have  a lot of parts in boxes, it's time those parts belong on the car.  I was able to get the upper and lower control arms back on the car.  The lower control arms were tricky.  The bushes were tight, so pushing them in alone was not going to do it.  I even tried to use the frame's weight to nudge them in, but no luck.  I had to use a rachet strap to get the lowers in.  I was careful not to scratch anything.  Tonight I am hoping to put the new front springs in; maybe te shocks too.  If not, I'll do the shocks the next day.  More pics to come.

Update August 03, 2009: New pics on page 3. 

Update July 28, 2009: Page 3 added.  Page 3 will contain pics of before and after shots of the frame.

Update July 27, 2009: I received my shipment from Ground Up Corporation.  Since I budget everything, I only made a small order of basic stuff I need to get the front end completed.  There should be no excuse now for not starting on assembly.  The shipment totalled $152.91.  Caliper paint with tax totalled $19.25.  So with that in mind, the new total is: ($6050.60+$19.25+$152.91) equals $6222.76.

Update July 21, 2009: Various parts ordered for the chassis.  This order should allow me to go full steam on the rebuild of the chassis.  All new control arm bolts are in this order.  I also got a caliper paint kit for the calipers.  Black.  About $17.  I will add it up after my order.

Update July 14, 2009: Pressed on the last 2 control arm bushings which are located on the rear end.  I had to crawl inside the Jimmy to accomplish this.  I've stored the rear end in the back of my SUV until I can get it to a shop.  I am also not strong enough to lift the rear end myself.  I purchased 2 stainless steel nuts for the 2 front lower control arm stops.  88 cents.  So you know what that means... ($6050.60+$.88) equals $6051.48 invested into the car.

Update July 9, 2009: Last night, late night I pushed myself to install the two lower ball joints.  There weren't any directions with them so I just pressed them in, keeping the stamped number facing the wheel-side.  I'll check again, but I don't think it mattered what position they were in, as long as they are pressed in.  Someone correct me if I am wrong!  I may assemble the uppers tonight.  Looking to put the 4 front control arms on the car by next weekend or some time soon. I would like to ahve new control arm bolts to be honest.  I also need some paint to paint certain components to keep them from rusting right away. 

Update July 6, 2009:  Progress is beautiful.  To sum up, I started the assembly on the Chevelle.  Yes, you read that correctly.  But don't get too excited for me.  I only added the front upper rubber stops to the frame.  Also over the weekend, I managed to press on 12 of the 16 bushings onto the control arms.  Minor scuffs to the arms' paint, which I will touch up.  I managed to hammer down two of the bushings for the front upper control arms.  I didn't want to do it, but once you assemble one bushing, you have limited room to squeeze in the stabilizer arm, so there was no other choice with the tools I have.  Tapping in those puts me to 14 out of 16.  The last two belong on the rear axle.  I am hoping to press those on while it sits inside my Jimmy.  I should be able to add the balljoints and bumpers and any other hardware to the control arms for the front and assemble onto the car by the end of the week.  Belive it or not, I may also install the springs and shocks in the front.  If that doesn't happen, I am hoping to paint the suspension components and assemble them.  I still need sway bar bushings and the brackets.  I need to get on that.  I will have to make another shopping list and order from my good friends at ss396.com.  I will post before and after pics of the control arms as soon as I get the time.

Update June 29, 2009: Bought the stainless steel fuel line at the GM Nationals at Carlisle. $80.  I had to angle it from the driver's side floor to out the passenger side window in order to transport it home.  ($80+$5970.60) equals $6050.60.

Update June 26, 2009:  Assorted rubber stoppers and two upper control arm kits added to the cost.  ($43 + $40 + $5887.60) equals $5970.60.  I expect to purchase the gas line this weekend which will bring my project total to over $6000.

Update June 24, 2009:  Bought the rad support and the two inner fenders for the Chevelle.  I really only needed the right side, but I'm too finiky, so I kept it a pair.  I got a deal on the rad support for $150, and the pair of inner fenders for $195.  Add to that the dust shields for $20.  I also bought some rubber bumpers for the control arms.  I still need the center stop for the rear and I need the sway bar rubbers and bracket.  I will add that to the total later.  But for now, total invested is ($5522.60+$365) equals $5887.60.  I will be buying the gas line for $80 this upcoming weekend.

Update May 29, 2009: Rear end is sanded and blasted.  Cost $90.  Now I can get it converted to a posi.  Total now invested is ($5432.60+$90) equals $5522.60  Pics soon!

Update May 18, 2009: Frame is home.  Finally.  Everything was blasted, about 33 different parts, and the frame blasted.  The rear end got dropped off today for blasting.  Cost $400 for the job; $46.15 for the rental truck to drop it off; $67.62 for the rental truck to pick it up.  Notice how the rental rate increased in that month time frame.  About $20.  Although I did make a side trip to Lowes, so I'll take $10 off for that trip.  So with that in mind the new total into the project so far is ($5328.83+$46.15+$67.62 -$10) equals $5432.60.

Update April 6, 2009: The Chevelle frame is in the shop.  I dropped off the frame this morning to the media blasting shop.  It'll take 2-3 weeks.  I rented a 16 foot long truck from Budget.  The total cost came under $47 to transport it.  Not bad at all.  It would have been less, but I couldn't find the shop which was tucked away, hidden between warehouses.  I can't believe I lifted that frame myself.  I actually bench pressed the frame over the weekend in order to work up the muscles.  Stay tuned for more progress!

Update January 31, 2009: Received $145 refund from Ground Up due to a price adjustment.  It brings the total cost down to $5328.83.  Other than that, I haven't worked on the car since I got all the boxes of toys for it.  I would like to get the rear end worked on and the frame done in Feb.  That's the goal now.  By March I should start assembly.

Update January 10, 2009: Received 5 boxes of parts for the power brake system.  One of the boxes were a new set of front srpings; anothre was the stainless steel brake lines.  I'm good to go with rebuilding the chassis.  Just need to get things painted!

Update January 7, 2009: Recalculated total and it is now $5473.83 invested into this project.

Update January 5, 2009: Purchased the entire 4 disc brake system from a company called  Ground-Up.  www.ss396.com Also purchased the front springs as well.  With all these parts I now have everything I need, minus the rear end to assemble the frame portion of the car.  There may be some nuts and bolts and clips needed along the way, but I can get those as needed.  Total price for the brake system and front springs is $1527.18 

Update January 3, 2009: Added page 2.  Page 2 has new pics, but of the frame and brakes.  Enjoy.

Update December 30, 2008: Took the upper control arms to a shop to have the bushings removed.  Cost was $15.  The frame is now ready to be taken to a shop to be blasted.  All parts are ready.  The only thing I need to do is create an inventory so parts do not get lost.  Note to self:  new running restoration total is: $3300 + $15 bushings (labor to remove from upper control arms) + $391.11 suspension parts + $138.13 bushings + $38 swaybar = $3882.24

Update December 17, 2008: Removed 10 bushings and 10 casings off the control arms, including the 2 located on the rear end.  I have 4 more casings and bushings to remove which are on the front upper control arms.  I may take them to a shope and have them remove those as well as the ball joints.  The chassis and all parts related should be ready for paint.  I need to create an inventory so I don't lose site of parts.  I also plan on ordering (very shortly) front end suspension components.

Update December 15, 2008: Removed 10 bushings from the control arms.  Removed 6 of the shelll casings. 10 more casings to knock out and 6 more shells to get out.  It has been difficult to tap the shells out, taking maybe 45 mins per shell.  At least it feels like it.  I loosely places the new shells in to get a feel what things would look like.  Wow.  I know that it's not 100% stock, but I like seeing the shiny brass casings verses just dull metal. Only 4 control arms are ready to be blasted.  That's half anyway.

Update December 11, 2008: Received the center link I ordered.  Not a bad price for the part.  Not sure if I am happy that it was made in Turkey.

Update December 10, 2008: Frame is nearly ready to be blasted.  Trying to get the bushings off all the control arms and the gas and brake lines off.  Then it will be ready.  I received the new bushings for all the control arms in the mail yesterday.  I may have to get them professionally installed.  Not sure yet.  I went with Energy Suspension verses PST.  Cost about $140 for 8 bushings with the shell casings.

Update November 25, 2008: Getting into the nuts and bolts of things.  Last night I was underneath the car loosening 8 nuts off the rear control arms of the rear suspension.  I managed to get all the nuts off, and tapped the bolts loose.  I did not however remove anything yet.  I may do so Friday or Saturday.  If I can do this, all that is left are some clips and the brake and gas lines.  The frame will be ready to go out.  But before that occurs, I need to make sure all other hardware that needs blasted is readied, photographed, labeled, and inventoried so I know what's going to be blasted.  I am currently looking for a 'super kit' by PST to replace all bushings on the frame, which I think is about $400 with shipping.  I am going to try to see if I can find something cheaper.  It is also interesting to note that when I removed the bolts on the rear contorl arms that the metal between the bolts looked shiny and brand new.  That means no water or air had gotten in that area since assembly of the car 40 years ago.  It was something to admire.  These 8 nuts I removed haven't been off the car since it was assembled 40 years ago.  Very interesting to me.

Update November 19, 2008: Hammered out both lower balljoints after researching that they can be tapped out.  They looked original.  I wailed on them for 30 minutes before realizing I was hammering on them in the wrong direction.  As soon as I flipped the control arms the other way, they came out.  One balljoint however, was completely broken apart from the aftermath.  I'm working on the upper balljoints as well as removing the bushings.  The control arms will be reused after getting blasted and painted.  I'm also pricing a front suspension rebuild it.  I'm not sure who to go with, but I am making sure I get a package that contains everything I would need for a rebuild.  I would like to get new hubs as well., but I may end up getting the ones I have blasted as well, then clearcoated.  This weekend I will take some pictures.

Update November 18, 2008: Target date will be the Nov. 28th for the frame and parts to be blasted and painted.  It's all going to depend on the weather.  The garage I am working in is a single car garage.  My motorcycle shares the garage space with this vehicle.  When I work on this car, the bike sits outside.  When it rains or snows, I can't have the bike out.  If I can tear apart the rear end, I can almost be ready to meet the target date. 

Todo: November 18, 2008: Need to remove bushings off both upper and control arms.  Need to remove 4 balljoints.  Need the rear end converted to a posi rear end.  Need to remove rear parts to car. New pictures are due and will be taken and uploaded soon.

Update November 16, 2008:  Removed the front springs on the car.  Finally.  Removed the upper and lower control arms and sway bar.  I had a problem with one bolt on the driver's lower control arm, but I managed to bang on the bolt for an hour before I was able to free it.  Rust and 40 years are to blame.  I also broke one of the bolts to the steering box.  Again, banging on the bolt for about 20 minutes freed it up.  I expect to replace all nuts and bolts anyway.  The front frame has a few more items to remove, but nothing major.  I should be able to shift to the rear end and pull the rear suspension off.  I am hoping to see this frame in the shop before Thanksgiving.  Progress is good.

Update November 4, 2008: Removed rear shocks and rear springs.  Both rear shocks were shot.  I would like to see the rear end disassembled by the weekend.  I plan on removing all the rear bolts, but loosely assemble it so I can move it around the garage.  I'm going to create a list of needs for the car as I continue on.  First items on the needs list (obviously) are 4 shocks.  Next, Springs, front and rear.  I'm not sure what position the springs have to be in or if they need to be seated a certain way. I probably should have taken pictures so I can make sure the new springs are aligned correctly, if needed.  I will try to figure that out this weekend.  Maybe I am making too much of it.

Update November 2, 2008: Removed front shocks.  Shocks were shot.  Within the week I'll be removing the rear shocks and springs, possibly the rear end as well.  Then the front springs.  After that, I plan on breaking down the frame for blasting.  I really hope to get the frame done this month. 

Update October 10, 2008: FYI.  $3300 tied up into the car so far.  This includes purchase price.

Update October 1, 2008:  Car is off the frame.  Currently working to break down all components off the frame so it can be media blasted before winter.  Pics to come soon.  About time I updated everyone on this project, right?  I am almost 100% on painting the car Astro Blue.  Any thoughts on that color?  You'll find this color on a first generation Monte Carlo.

As indicated above, only one of 2,919 made for this year with a post. It was originally ??'bruner red'?? but I plan on painting it a medium blue or something close to 'Windward Blue', 'LeMans Blue', or 'Marina Blue' ... somewhere along that line. I recently bought 2 new fenders at a trade show, which saved me some cash. I would like to take the car off the frame and work from the ground up. The car itself is almost ready for paint. The quarter panels are done, the doors are done, and the roof, hood and trunk are done. The fenders will be new, so that's done. The only thing left is a new floor and a new trunk pan and it's set. I will wait until the frame is done before I go ahead with the paint. I have the original engine, but I want to beef the car up with a new engine, new transmission and new rear end. Any suggestions would help. I don't want to get too crazy with it, just something really nice and roars really good. I was thinking either a 350, or what they call a 'stroker 383'. I haven't done my research yet. By the way, it currently has a tired old 307 with 148K miles on it.

Me and the car chillin'.

plymouth4evr's 1968 Chevrolet Chevelle

The car before:

plymouth4evr's 1968 Chevrolet Chevelle

The car currently:

plymouth4evr's 1968 Chevrolet Chevelleplymouth4evr's 1968 Chevrolet Chevelle

 

 


 

Guestbook Ratings

Displaying entries 1-5 of 23

escaperoute  

Posted by: escaperoute

11/19/2009 10:40AM

Great project, it will be beautiful when it's done. Keep up the good work!

Rodie40  

Posted by: Rodie40

09/18/2009 11:23AM

Good job so far. I wouldn't keep a tally of the money spent. lol. Check out mine if you can.

ashayne123  

Posted by: ashayne123

08/03/2009 11:36AM

very nice work 5*s

brianbigboy1000  

Posted by: brianbigboy1000

07/28/2009 04:42PM

good start to the project keep me posted,check my 70 chevelle project..oh yeah i wouldnt tell to many people you stole the dolly and blankets from budget!

Genaro82  

Posted by: Genaro82

12/30/2008 12:06PM

Great looking project. I am sure it will be awesome when done. Check out my 70 Chevelle page sometime. Thanks!

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Vehicle Owner

Member ID: plymouth4evr

Location: Pittsburgh, PA