FUTURE MODS: Currently I'm working on a few things:
1: Speed Based Boost(Boost by MPH)
2: Launch Control/Anti Lag/2-Step
3: Larger Camshafts
4: Modifying Indy Intake
5: Switching over to E-85 as main fuel source
6: Modifying the PCV system

I've ruled out Direct port methanol as I really dont care for the hassle/complications. I believe switching my main fuel source to E-85 will be the better option(although more expensive to switch)

Also I dont plan to switch cams or mod the intake just yet. I want to get some results 1st, track times and dyno. Then i will do one at a time and note the gains.

Speed based boost:
How this works is the factory sds(speed distance sensor) outputs a signal similar to a 4cyl tach, so instead of using the boost by RPM on my EBoost2, its is boost by MPH which is better for traction. This should work for any Electronic Boost Controller that can do boost by RPM(as long as your speed sensor is similar, so most Dodges should be). Also you can use a couple rpm switches and solenoids with grainger valves(cheap manual boost controller)to do the same thing.

I am trying to get the Speed based boost working off of a rear wheel instead of using the sds on the transmission. Using the factory sds makes boost ramp up when the wheel spins, which is no good for doing a burnout and street driving. I was thinking about using a rear ABS sensor for the speed signal, turns out that its AC sine wave while the tach/sds sensor and what the EBC needs is a DC square wave signal switching between 0V and 3.5-12V. If you look here Fig 1.4 is what a typical ABS sensor output looks like and Fig 1.5 is a speed sensor output(which is the same/similar to a tach signal). http://www.picotech.com/auto/tutorials/sensors-actuators.html
Since my car does not have ABS its not easy to test and see if it would work nor do I want to risk damage to my $500 EBC. So I found some very smart guys that told me how to build a small circuit that will convert the signal, but the cost of the ABS sensor is ~$60 and I'm not good with small electronics like that(yet). So instead I may source an ABS hub and bracket from a similar car at the junk yard that has the same rear brakes and has ABS. Then retrofit a hall-effect sensor in the ABS sensor hole. I have found some automotive grade hall-effect sensors that should work from ~$10-$30. i am still researching what cars to look for that rear ABS and 11" vented rear brakes.

Launch Control/Anti Lag/2-Step
I also am working on getting the MSD Dis 2 setup for launch retard.This is available on the Programmable Dis 2(3 rev limiters), not the one with dials(2 rev limiters). I didn't know when I bought it but it is nice to have for FWD at the track. The launch retard/limiter will let me pull timing on the line and spool the turbo fast and easy and has a rev limiter. It has a delay so it progressively adds timing back over a set time interval(in .1 second intervals up to 2.5 seconds). With the timing retarded at the line it lowers the power of the motor(helps traction) while spooling huge turbos effortlessly(if you make the timing severely retarded, AKA anti lag). Here is a video of a very fast FWD Dodge race car with the same engine computer and MSD ignition(no nitrous) http://videos.streetfire.net/video/The-SMP-Race-car-during-qualifying-at-the-NHRA-Eas_46945.htm

Larger Camshafts
I am looking to get some larger cams also. I'm thinking about Crane 16's, Brian Crower stg3's or Crower stg 2's. I talked to DCR about the cams and they recommend Crane 16's for my setup.They are not huge so I can spool the turbo/converter easily which is not really needed when using the launch retard(anti-lag + 2-step) but I like the idea of smaller cams anyway.

Modifying Indy Intake
I'm considering cutting off the water neck and using the separate PT water neck so it doesn't heat soak the intake. I 'm also considering cutting off the TB neck and running elbow pipe that allows for a larger TB. This will make using a 65MM Ford TB easy and eliminate the wall that the air has to slam into after going through the TB. It will also increase the plenum size slightly depending on the length of the elbow. I would like to make the elbow so the TB is facing the front of the car, which would increase the plenum noticeable. The only draw back to this is I may need a brace to support the TB/elbow, but I could easily add one from the transmission/engine to the TB area. It could also effect the flow in the Intake but after seeing many custom intakes that have a TB mounted directly to a plenum, I don't think its as big of deal. Both of these mods would keep the good things about the intake(like the velocity stacks) and add to its plenum and make less restrictions while keeping it cooler also.

E-85 as main fuel source
E-85 has an octane of 105, but it carries oxygen so it normally makes ~5% more HP then gasoline. Its 85% ethanol so it burns cooler. You need ~27% more fuel then gasoline to make the same power. Also it can be richer then a gasoline tune as the power doesn't fall off as sharp as gasoline.

This is all a win win, cooler, more HP, more octane, cheaper than 87 octane gas, can tune it richer(safer).

So the plan is to get another walbro 255 external fuel pump and plumb it w/ lines. So I will have 2 separate -6an feeds then they will "Y" into a -10an hose that goes to the fuel rail. Get some larger injectors 120lbs or so and switch to E-85. Hopefully I wont have to redo my -6an return line or get a different regulator.

Modifying the PCV system
Well there are many opinions on PCV especially on turbocharged motors. Obliviously pulling vac, from the block at all times is the best option. This requires a vac pump. An exhaust EVAC setup also seems to work, but some say it doesn't work for them as it should. Then the Honda crowd seems to just vent the valve cover with large lines and no vac at all at any time. So currently i would like to use the exhaust setup and have the parts to do so, but have not done the mods.