The Ultimate 2.4 Swap Info

Motors
The 2.4 liter engine is found primarily in what are referred to as the "cloud" cars which(are the most plentiful) are the Cirrus, Stratus and Breeze. The 2.4l can be found in some minivans but, those are a rare duck and are the only factory 2.4 w/ 3spd auto(IF you are lucky like me and can find a Caravan 2.4 and trans still in vehicle. Tell them you want all of the accessories, the motor mounts, and the pwr steering reservoir, and the wiring on the alt/starter). These motors have PS in the rear and Alt/AC up front like the TD's the neons/PT/SRT have ps in front and alt in rear.

The best motor is the GT Cruiser and the SRT4, Factory turbocharged, Built bottom ends, Best flowing stock heads, But they are pricey

The Block
The block is able to take massive power whether it be an old style or a new style. The best one is the SRT or PT turbo block since they have the factory turbo drain back and oil sprayers for the pistons.

16V block 1997 to 2001
It doesn't have a lot of changes. Nice and strong but, there are some changes you will need to make to it

The main bearings will have to be changed. The stock 2.4 NA bearings can't stand up to the punishment. You'll need SRT bearings. MAIN BEARING 5012582AA(4 REQUIRED). If you need stock or larger bearings, Clevite CB1813p(for srt2.4 rods) and MS2201p mains(for na 2.4's)

You will need to add plumbing for the turbo, you can pull oil for the turbo off the head or from the 3/8npt in the back of the block, drill the pan for the return

Water and oil pump?
Well, there are people out there running the NA oil and water pump with no issues at all. But, you can choose to upgrade. If you do you'll need a SRT oil pump, water pump, hydraulic tensioner, srt lower gasket kit and other odds and ends. Want them? Here they are:

Tensionser: 4781570AB
bolt: 6101763
bolt: 6506019AA
Water Pump: 4884159AA
bolt: 6503255 (x 4)
Idler Pulley: 04781569AB
Oil Pump Pickup/Screen: 4792304AC
Oil Pan: 4777991AA
Oil Pump: 4777955AA
Oil Pan Gasket: 4777994AA
Oil Filter Connector: 4777998AA
Oil Filter Connector Gasket: 4884000AA
Oil Filter Connector Screw: 6102041AA (x 3)
Front Seal(for oil pump): 4667198
srt lower gasket kit contains oil pan gasket,oil pump O-ring, oil pickup O-ring, water inlet pipe O-ring, water pump O-ring, front and rear main seals

The tensioner upgrade package part number for the PT is 5114069AA. It includes the tensioner, both covers, and some screws. It will make it so you have the plastic covers that cover and protect the timing belt.

4884159AA SRT4 Water pump
5114072AA Complete Tensioner upgrade
Rods/Pistons:
The stock na 2.4 rods are weak and not recomended for boosted applications.
The SRT/PT rods are good, comparible to the TM/TD rods. You can also use TM rods w/ the appropriate bearings(specific to rods) just have to have the small end sized for the srt.866 pin. You can use any aftermarket SRT rod/piston in all 2.4's. JE Pistons don't have big valve reliefs!

Heads
The heads get a little more involved. All the 2.0 and 2.4 DOHC heads have the same bolt pattern and will interchange some with mods though. The bolt patterns are the same, SRT head has rectangle exhaust ports, 2.0 has oval exhaust ports, SRT has 28.5 mm exhaust valves, 2.0 has 30 mm exhaust valves, SRT has no speed humps at the end of the port, 2.0 does have the speed humps at the end of the port, and both heads have the humps under the valve seats in the bowl.

Here is the general rule of thumb for 2.4L:
Pre-2001 heads will bolt up to a pre-2001 block with no issue. You can use just about any stock 2.0 or 2.4 intake manifold. The Indy intake for DOHC 95-99 neons is a pita, you will have to modify the alt bracket and do some grinding on things, beat up your alt, ect. lots of wok!

95-99 Spark plugs are different from SRT heads!

Stock swap NGK Bkre6e/es use the 7 for turbo low boost
NGK iridum plugs 1step 2step colder
Iridium IX BKR6EIX
Iridium IX BKR7EIX
Iridium IX BKR9EIX High boost

If you want to use an SRT4 valve cover on a 96-99 2.4, you will have to mill the spark plug hole lips(where the boot attach's) down 1/2"-5/8". This is because the SRT and newer heads use a different spark plug that is that much longer and they are different styles so you cannot just swap plugs. Or you can also just cut part of the sealing boot off the wires then it should fit. Then you will have 2 bolt holes that you do not need that will have to be filled. heres mine powdercoated blue w/ black specs.

For 96-99 dohc's Autozone has the 180^ thermostat(stock is 195^) that is special order(VALUCRAFT MED TEMP-180 DEGREE 4208 $9.99 SEAL INCLUDED), tell them to look up a 98 neon, then it is an option) but cheaper than Howell automotive.

Use of a 2002+ head on a pre-2001 block will require either welding and red-drilling of front oil drain on the cylinder head. OR installing of freeze plugs to the head and the block on the front oil drain to eliminate the passage. A diesel shop will have them. Early Cummins turbo freeze plugs for the head.

2.0 DOHC are the most common in the JY
2.4 N/A are next
PT N/A Head that has NO EGR is the next best circa @ 2002 mid year. Lower exhaust port floor = better flow
PT turbo head is better yet since it has better exhaust valves and no EGR(technically). These can be found CHEAP and are nearly as good as the turbo head.

SRT turbo head: The best flowing stock head you can get! BUT, to use an old style intake mani (non-SRT) you must add metal and create bolt holes in the intake side of the head so that you have enough clampage. Even then you must drill out two extra holes in the intake manifold flange so that it can seal properly. OR get an SRT intake but, that may not clear the dizzy.

If your making a custom Intake then you can use the PT waterneck that bolts to the head(also keeps the intake from getting heatsoaked from the coolant). Then use whatever stock intake and cut the plenu, off and make your own.

Cams/Gears
2.0 cams are a great place to start (best factory cam from all the 2.0/2.4's).
You can have great results from aftermarket cams as well, here are the aftermarket cams

__________________INTAKE ______________EXHAUST
CAM_________DURATION____LIFT___DURATION_____LIFT
Stock SRT/2.4____248_______.325"______248_______.259"
Stock 2.0/neon____243_______.344"______243_______.315"
Crane 12________246_______.364"______246_______.364"
Crane 14________246_______.364"______238_______.345"
Crane 16________250_______.374"______250_______.374"
Crane 18________258_______.394"______258_______.394"
Crower S1_______246_______.357"______246_______.308"
Crower S2_______246_______.387"______240_______.382"
Notes: These are Crower Cams, not Brian Crower Cams

*Be Carefull. w/ cams above .375" lift and JE 8.5CR pistons! They have small valve reliefs and pistons and valves will touch!*

2.4 gears go w/ a 2.4 motor (stock gears are reversible,2.0 on one side/2.4 the other)

If your doing cams then using this trick/tool I made from info off neons.org makes loosening/tightening the cam bolts a breeze

Here's some bolt sizes
Valve Cover to Head- M6 x 1.00 x 17-Qty 10(96-99)
Coil Pack to Valve Cover- M6 x 1.00 x 50 -Qty 4(96-99)
Fuel Rail to Intake Manifold- M8 x 1.25 x 16 -Qty 2(all years)
Exhaust Manifold to Head Bolts- M8 x 1.25 x 25 -Qty 6(or use 8studs)
Exhaust Manifold to Head Studs- M8 x 1.25 x 51 -Qty 2(or use 8 studs)
Exhaust Manifold to Head Nuts- M8 x 1.25 - Qty 2(or 8studs)
DOHC: Intake Manifold to Head- M8 x 1.25 x 28 -Qty
Throttle Body to Plenum- M8 x 1.25 x 60 -Qty 2
IAC Sensor to Throttle Body- M5 x .8 x 12 -Qty 2
TPS Sensor to Throttle Body- M5 x .8 x 20 -Qty 2
Water Neck to Intake Manifold- M6 x 1.00 x 30 -Qty 2
Cam Gear to Camshaft-M12 x 1.50 x 52 -Qty 2
Crank Pulley to Crankshaft-M12 x 1.75 x 87.5 -Qty 1
Oil Pan Drain Plug-M14 x 1.50 x 16 -Qty 1
DOHC Cam Caps-M6 x 1.0 x 35 -Qty 18
DOHC Cam Caps-M8 x 1.25 x 40 -Qty 6
Cam Sensor to Head-M6 x 1.0 x 20 -Qty 2
Alternator Bracket to Block-M10 x 1.50 x 40 -Qty 3
Alternator Pivot Bolt-M10 x 1.50 x 100 -Qty 1
Oil drain plug M14 x 1.5(srt pan)
2.0 DOHC Head Bolts
M11 x 1.5 x 110 -Qty 4
M11 x 1.5 x 156 -Qty 6
2.4 DOHC Head Bolts
M11 x 1.5 x 146 -Qty 10
There is no ARP head stud kit for the 2.4 (well actually there is now, but on summit it doesn't say what its for, this is the # ARP 141-4204) or use the VW 1.8 20v set ARP 204-4204(same length and pitch bolts)

2.0 Bedplate Bolts
M8 x 1.25 x60
M11 x 1.5 x 65
2.4 bedplate bolts
M8 x 1.25 x 70
M11 x 1.50 x 75

Heres some torque specs for the 2.4
Camshaft Position Sensor Pickup Bolts:20 ft lbs
Connecting Rod Bolts:20 ft lbs plus 1/4 turn
Bedplate: M8 bolts- 250 inch lbs and M11 bolts- 30 ft lbs
Crank Pulley Bolt: 100 ft lbs
Valve Cover Bolts: 105 in lbs
Engine Mount Bracket Attaching Bolts: 30 ft lbs
Exhaust Manifold Bolts: 200 in lbs
Intake Manifold Bolts: 20 ft lbs
Oil Filter to Block Adapter: 40 ft lbs
Oil Filter: 15 ft lbs
Oil Pan Bolts: 105 in lbs
Oil Pan Drain Plug: 25 ft lbs
Oil Pump Attaching Bolts: 20 ft lbs
Oil Pump Cover Bolts: 105 in lbs
Oil Pickup Tube Bolt: 20 ft lbs
Oil Pump Relief Valve Cap: 40 ft lbs
Spark Plugs: 20 ft lbs
Timing Belt Tensioner: 20 ft lbs*
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley Assembly: 30 ft lbs*
Water Pump: 105 in lbs
*These are for the 95-96 2.4L Motors with the hydraulic tensioner*

Timing Belt Tensioner How to:
Loosen the center lock bolt about one turn, no need to go more than that. This should allow the black stamped steel piece under the bolt head to rotate. There will either be a 1/4" socket extension hole in it or a 6mm allen head hole in it. Gently rotate the center piece CLOCKWISE. You will see the pulley move "down" and to the left slightly. This will allow you to just barely sneak the belt over the pulley. Get all the slack out of the belt between he crank, water pump and both cam gears. Then use the allen wrench or extension and start to turn the center piece COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. Eventually you will see the small aluminum bracket on the back side of the pulley start to "float" and rotate clockwise when the assembly starts to put pressure on the belt. When the small opening in the center of that aluminum bracket lines up with the exposed spring wire tang, the tension is set. Hole the allen wrench/extension and tighten the lock bolt. Rotate the engine assembly over a couple of times and look at the location of the aluminum bracket and spring tang to be sure they are close to where you set them. It's very easy to set the tension with this design. Eventually I'll get a how-to put together for the Archives since the same procedure applies to late model SOHC and 2.4.

Unless you use the hydraulic tensioner which has worked flawless for many. http://www.bstockum.com/tensionerpage1.html

Mounts:
Passengers Side Mount- you'll need a special adapter bracket made to place the 2.4 in the 2.0 neon engien compartment. It is made by toomanyneons on www.neons.org, or you can combine a stratus or neon w/ the your factory mount

Drivers Side - depends on the tranny. Currently you can use a TD 413 mount on the neon 413 based tranny.

Front Mount - combined 2.4 and factory , or I used a tweaked caravan.

Rear Mount - The newer auto trans have a provision for a rear mount. the caravan 2.4 is the only one that actually uses it. You can easily make a new one w/ the caravan mount and stock bobble strut location on the K frame.

Transmissions:
Manual- Yes, you can install the cable operated NVT350 1995-1999 neon 5 speed in either 3.55 FD or 3.94 FD. Yes, you can install a TD 520,523,555,568 tranny with some modification. Axles Stock large splined axles should do to begin with.

Yes, you can install a srt4 tranny, but you also have to install a hydraulic clutch system. The measurements I made on my 2.4 and NVT350 have me a little concerned. I will know more once I have the engine back from the machine shop, and mated up to the tranny, but the measurement from tranny mount to pass side mount is not quite the same as a L body. Looks like some serious custom fabrication might be in order if it will work at all

In addition, I know that the 2.4 with the neon 3 speed (413) uses a stock 413 mount, and Omni large splines, but the NVT350 will use a large spline on the drivers side, but will require something else on the pass side. One the neon the pass side axle is different from the auto to the manual, I just don't know how much yet.

Auto- neon/caravan 3spd bolts up and uses factory large spline axles. Stratus newer 4spd electronic trans has not been tried yet because its electronic and needs a computer/electronics to shift it.

Accessories:

PWR Steering FAQ:
Neon underdrive pulleys work on the 2.4,you need a '00+ neon UDP(and will have to mount a remove reservoir, which there is only one real place for it to go, between pass strut tower and firewall).The stock TM Saginaw pwr steering pressure line fits the newer 2.4 pump. If you have a log manifold you may need to modify the bracket for the pressure line to not be so close to the header

Alternator:
The alt 2.4 alt pulley is 6 grove, the udp is supposed to be 4 like the PS(for some reason the cheapy off ebay is 5 groove), either way you will need a different pulley for the alt

Electronics:
Your factory tack/spedo will work as standalone gauges if you want to use a non factory type computer

Dizzy off the intake cam w/ factory wiring:
dizzy conversion construction link http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181

Need a new cal

Standalone:
Most of these are similar and most require you to use an external voltage regulator. Its best to ask someone w/ a similar setup the best way to go about it. Megasquirt is an in-expesive system that can read the factory crank setup. There is lots of info on neons.org, http://forums.neons.org/viewforum.php?f=60