PERFORMANCE MODS

Heat kills rotary engines. Unlike a piston motor, which can often recover from overheating, cooling problems with the 13B-REW will end the engine. I'd rather not have to tear apart my engine right away, so instead I'm making moves to get it running cool before running it harder.

GReddy Turbo Timer, FREE. People have suggested that a turbo timer on an FD3S is a waste of money. The stock turbos are water-cooled, and a couple minutes of non-idiotic driving before shutting down typically does the same thing as turbo timing. All of this is true and I don't dispute it. Still, I got this mother for free, so the added insurance was okay by me. It's an old school GReddy turbo timer. They all work the same, but I was planning something stupid with this. See, it was free, so if I screwed it up, I'm not out cash. The plan was to modify it to run the radiator and A/C fans while it's timing. Again, you don't NEED this, as simply turning the parking lights on does the same thing... the idea was to do it automatically. I ditched the idea when I looked into standalone engine management, so I handed it off to a friend who needed it.

Stainless Steel Downpipe, $80. This replaces the restrictive stock downpipe and the otherwise useless pre-cat. Restrictive piping really keeps heat in the engine bay, so replacing the pre-cat with this guy gets the heat out faster. Also, cast materials RADIATE heat, where this one will insulate it more effectively. Everyone who has installed any aftermarket DP on the FD has noticed a considerable drop in underhood temperatures. Also, this paves the way for more power later. They retail for around $300, so I got this one used from a fellow member on rx7club.com. Thanks, man! Installed.

JDM Efini Y-Pipe, $200. The stock USDM Y-pipe, which acts as a hot pipe for both turbos, is another bottleneck on reliability. It has a tendency to crack and cause otherwise difficult to trace boost leaks. I have a feeling that my car already has the problem, so I'm fixing it now. It's less about keeping engine temps down, though I think it will help, and more about overall reliability. Installed.

GReddy V2 52mm (2in) Boost Gauge, $190 w/ A-pillar single gauge pod. A boost gauge is DEFINITELY a reliability mod, people! The same brain trust at Mazda that decided to install plastic engine bay components on a twin-turbocharged rotary sports car also neglected to include a boost gauge. In a turbo car, boost is usually one of those things you want to keep an eye on. Installed.

The FD is a great platform that enjoys enough aftermarket tuning support to keep from becoming mundane. The fact is, this car was a true sports car when it rolled out of the factory in Hiroshima. Taking Mazda's design a few steps further or makes it a true enthusiast's car. Below are the parts I have brought together for no reason beyond making it even faster.

A'pexi Power FC, $749. So here it is: the foundation of my future tuning. A'pexi's Power FC is undoubtedly the most widely used means of aftermarket engine management for the FD. Sure, there are better systems with finer tuning resolution and a wider range of adaptations available, but those are, by and in large, more expensive and more difficult to tune. Furthermore, many of the highest-grade standalones DEMAND professional installation and tuning, which is something I would rather not have to pay for. For street applications, the PFC and included FC Commander more than fit the bill. Installed.

Knight Sports EBSIII, $200. Based on what I've found, this is one of the best (if not THE best) electronic boost controllers for the 13B-REW. It is specially designed for the stock twin turbo system and controls the stock hardware via an ECU interface. Easy to install, and supposedly quite easy to use. Damn, with this car, anything that's easy is either expensive or a scam. Lucky for me, I picked it up used from a forum member. Installed.

Brembo Rotors, $90 ea. When the front brakes started to squeal, I wasted no time and replaced the rotors and pads. I chose Brembo hardware from RX7Store.net because of its affordability and endurance characteristics. The rotors are slotted to dissipate heat without sacrificing rotor mass. Installed.

EBC Green Stuff Brake Pads, $56. Since the brake work, I've been very impressed with the setup in the front. After a short break-in procedure, the EBC Green Stuff pads grip predictably without fade, and make no noise on the street. Initially, they seem to produce more dust than the OEM pads, but not MUCH more. Installed.

Contents
Page 1 - Introduction
Page 2 - Performance Mods
Page 3 - Interior and Audio
Page 5 - Friends' Rides

My Other Cars

1977 Datsun 280Z - The Project
1991 Nissan 240SX - The Old Daily